Luke HCR32

In the process of swapping my leaky factory RB20 turbo for another second hand one in better condition. What precautions do I need to take to ensure it receives oil pressure when i first start up the motor? I've heard of turbos being damaged in this way.

Just to clarify gaskets are identical for RB20/25/25NEO/26

I undid two bolts behind the pulley but apparently one was incorrect as I then snapped the tensioning bolt, all fixed now though, figured out what all the bolts actually do and replaced the tensioner.

I think I stuffed up my units, my factory gauge does peak at approximately 500mmHg (Approx 10psi) from memory. I think I used kg/cm^2 by accident, and I'm supposed to be an engineer! I've heard of people experiencing boost above 10psi with 3 inch setups, not sure if I have anything more than 10 psi but it might just be that my gauge isn't accurate enough to tell me. I reckon i will go with extending the hose and setting boost to 12psi with my controller, want to allow for spikes and don't really want to risk the turbo at 14 psi at this stage. I do have a secondary boost gauge in my drivers side air vent, problem is it's hard to see down below the steering wheel and I think it reads in kPa or bars (can't check as I'm away from home), so i have nothing to read psi directly (which is what I'm most comfortable with).

Is there a difference between a standard gts-t and an m-spec turbo? I've heard people talk about m-spec turbos before but I'm not sure if they were a myth.

Why would the presence of a controller give me less boost rather than more?

I have a 300 by 600 aluminium tube and fin front mount, bosch in tank 040 and 3 inch dump to 3 inch exhaust. I am pretty sure it's an RB20 turbo as I have bought a second hand RB20 turbo to replace it as it shits oil and they look the same to me, how can i tell the difference between the two easily? I would consider turning the boost up to 12 pound if it is considered safe, for some reason I was under the impression that standard RB20 turbo pressure was 7 pound. I did calculate what my boost gauge peaks at to be roughly 7 pound, maybe i stuffed up.

Wouldn't that put the set up back to the factory configuration which still gives around 7 psi? The controller is aftermarket, I think it's branded GBH and is just a blue anodized knob with an alan bolt adjuster in it's center.

I bought my 1992 R32 GTS-T with a manual boost control already fitted between the compressor housing and wastegate actuator tucked under the turbo. The controller doesn't seem to be in effect at the moment as the car is only running 7 psi (factory turbo), the time has come where I would like to increase the boost slightly however the position of the controlelr is extremely inconvenient. I would like to extend the amount of hose between the housing and wastegate so that I can put the controller in a more accessible location but I have been told it will cause boost spikes. How much can I extend this hose without causing significant boost spikes if I were to run 10psi. Would boost spiking to say 12psi be harmful to my turbo?

My car isn't in running condition at the moment, whats the best way to rotate the pulley to get at the bolts behind it?

Got around to taking more of the engine bay apart today. Cam cover breather hose has a small amount of oil residue in it however the point where this hose plumbs into the intake shows little sign of oil. Turbo compressor intake shows little sign of oil, turbo compressor outlet has a fair bit of oil in it. In the process of taking the turbo off, cracked all the manifold bolts, the top oil line, the passenger side water line and the top 4 dump bolts but cant get at the last two dump bolts or the oil drain, will I need to jack up the car and get underneath?

I'm running penrite semi synthetic 10W-50 by the way

Is that the two bolts on the left of the pump that attach it to the engine? I've heard on R33 there is a bolt that should be loosened behind the pulley, same for r32?

The oil in the piping is black and seems to have carbon in it

Car uses no water what so ever, no sign of any oily residue in the radiator. Car doesn't get much high rpm work, take it through the hills now and then but I don't slide it or do burnouts our anything.

Keeping in mind that as soon as I fix the oil issue i'm planning to run towards 10 psi.

Oh ok so the right hand one should be more critical? I'll get onto it tomorrow but probably strip my piping back to my turbo and check the seal as well. Reckon it's worth slapping my other turbo on regardless if it has less shaft play?

So we're talking the largish most frontmost hose on each cover? What's PCV? Do I need to check the one on the left too or only the one on the right?

Thanks mate, where are the breathers located? do they plum back to the piping in such a way that they could be causing the problem? Sorry I'm still a bit green, first RB and first turbo.

My 1992 R32 GTS-T has been consuming oil slowly since I bought it six months ago. It's running an RB20 with stock turbo at stock boost (7 psi approx.) with an aftermarket front mount, it does have a manual boost controller indicating it's probably been boosted in the past. Recently the rate of oil disappearing has increased massively (about a litre per thousand kms), it doesn't drop any at all so is burning it somewhere. Today I got around to removing some of the pipework and after removing the elbow which joins the turbo outlet to the cooler through the engine bay wall I found alot of dirt oily residue inside the pipe. Shining a torch down the pipe leading to the cooler showed signs of oily shit running down the pipework towards the cooler (which was only fitted about 2-3 months ago). Several questions: Is it possible that this residue is just buildup due to the age of the car and the problem really lies somewhere else? Is this enough to diagnose the turbo having f**ked seals (I'm hoping it's not the engine internals e.g. valve stem seals/piston rings and have already bought another stock RB20 turbo in anticipation of this)? Is it likely that the turbo is the only problem? Would it be necessary to clean out the intercooler or will it flush itself once I stop the leak? My exhaust tends to blow alot of carbon, would this be caused by the oil burn alone or am I running rich? I haven't got around to actually getting to the turbo yet but plan to in the next few days. Any advice would be appreciated. Cheers, Luke

The power steering belt on my 1992 R32 GTS-T is becoming intolerably noisy, finally got around to having a crack at swapping it but not having any luck. I've printed an R32 engine manual which showed me where the tensioning bolt is but turning the bolt a long way in either direction does not seem to effect the tension on the belt. Has anyone else had this problem? Anyone know for sure which way the tensioning bolt should be turned to release the tension? If I were to cut the belt would it be possible to soak the new one in hot water so I can stretch it onto the pulleys (similar to the trick people use with fuel hose) or would this damage the belt? Any tips with pics if needed would be appreciated. Cheers, Luke

Will GT-R rear diff fit GTS-T?

I'm after a complete set of R32 floor mats from either an M-Spec GTS-T or a GT-R, I'm not interested in mats with GT-R actually printed on them but any Nismo badging is fine. Cheers.

Still got the floor mats? Got a pic?

You got any complete R32 mat sets?