proengines

I've got 4 full kits here and 4 without the pickups. No problem to send to WA.

Hardness doesn't really mean much in terms of breakage, if it was pumps wearing that would be an issue. You could make the gears out of carbide and it's super hard but would shatter if you used them. 4140 is not as hard but will flex without breaking which is what you need for a gerotor gear.

Gary, I've used over 50 and the last one broke, the rest were no problem. Still that's enough for me to be paranoid from now on.

I've used vg30 bolts, you do need to trim the ends of them, they're a little long and can touch the cradle. Sr20's are a tad short and don't engage the full nut. Before you buy them, fit them and have the rods closed and honed and the pin bushes done it will cost around $400, look at the price of a set of Spool rods, you won't be spending a lot more for something a lot better.

On the gears changing, I know there are some companies in China who are producing a lot of powdered metal parts, maybe Nissan started sourcing them from there? Whatever the case, I won't use them any more, or if someone wants to use one, it's their problem if it breaks. I'm getting some info on the gear splining, should have some news in the next week or so about a billet spline drive gear set to fit the standard housing. I've also been cadding up a new front housing that uses an external pump, probably a single stage petersen one but doesn't get in the way of the accessory drives or anything else.

Mike, have a read at http://www.theoldone.com/components/pistons/index.html there is a basic description of the roller wave design near the bottom of the page. If you can access the old forum on the website there is a lot more about it there. These guys are running very high comp 11/12:1 with forced induction and the right cams and making some unreal power from Hondas using this design.

That's not a bad price for what you get, including a brand new head. You'd need to run their roller wave pistons as well looking at the lowered intake quench pad. Endyne came up with their "soft head" design and looking at their Honda engines, it works. I just want their workshop, it's very impressive.

nope

I'm confident it would be @28". You see above #1 it says CCFM, that is calculated cfm which with Audie software is either at 10" or 28" water and if the head is flowing those numbers at 10", multiply them by 1.67 to get flow @ 28" and you have a head that flows 511cfm @ 28" intake @ .5" and 392cfm on the exhaust at the same lift. That's in the range that a 500cu/in pro stock head flows @ .8" lift and makes around 1300hp naturally aspirated @ over 9500rpm. On an RB26 it would have a sweet spot around 20,000ish rpm.. They are very good exhaust numbers, what sized valves is the head the data is from using?

They would be at 28" water

I think you'll find that 1 is stock intake, 2 stock exhaust, 3 modified intake 4 modified exhaust. An RB exhaust will never outflow the intake except at very low lifts. Later Mitsubishi Evo heads do for part of the range though. They're good numbers, That looks like Audie flow software, who is the head from?

No problem, they're great. Take a look at the Prodrive Ferrari's, they run 2 Davies Craig EWP's.

The difference between the nissan drive and a spline drive is like the difference between tightening a bolt with an open ender on a hex head compared to a 12 point socket on a 12 point head, massive difference in the torque you can apply before the head rounds off. Mike, I was thinking of a collar fitted just the same way as you fit a regular one, press fit and locking screws directly to the crank. Same way as my collars, Jun ones and even the dodgy cheap ones being sold now that look like the flats are machined with an angle grinder.

Marko, Toyota do it on most of their engines now, have done on their diesels for years. It's just that they are more labour intensive to make. It takes me 5 minutes to mill the flats on one of my collars, to mill 30 or so splines will take a lot longer. It's a bit of a catch 22, to make a billet gear to suit the standard drive, the inner portion of the rotor needs to be wire cut as you can't mill that shape and I don't have a wire cutter and people that do charge a pretty good hourly rate for them and it's slow, from memory about 5mm/min, maybe newer machines are quicker. The rest of the gear is a mill-able profile and the internal splines can be broached which isn't a hassle to get done. I've got the rotor profile cadded up so that's not a problem. There's also isotropic finishing and heat treatment to do. I'll do some sums and see if they're still worth making. How much are the gears you can currently buy? These wouldn't be cheap but they would be very good stuff.

I won't use an N1 pump again, I just had one fail and it's ugly. Just lots of little bits of smashed gear and the consequential damage no oil pressure causes. The extra dollars for a Nitto pump are well and truly justified compared to the time & cost of fixing the damage a broken pump caused. I've used 50 or 60 in the past without a problem but am now really paranoid about using one again. We've got a heap of billet oil pump gear blanks machined up ready to cut the gear teeth on, anyone interested in a billet chrome moly set of gears that will fit into a factory pump housing? I'm just weighing up the cost of finishing them off, from memory we have about 50 sets semi machined. Also considering making then spline drive like a Toyota rather than the 2 flats.

Beer Baron, you're right. That's the ports before and after porting. The intake port is the same size and shape opening at the manifold face as standard. I use a perspex radius plate on the intake to flow them, nothing on the exhaust though I should make up a stub pipe. The exhaust port is close to original size at the opening with the bump removed, most of the work is in the bowl area, short turns and some work on the port dividers. It's going on an RB30 as well, 280 Camtech cams in it.

Good question, it doesn't make a lot of sense without a legend: Teal> std exhaust Red> modified exhaust Green> std intake Grey> modified intake CFM runs up the left y-axis Red line across the top is test pressure on the right y-axis x-axis is valve lift. I test at .050" (approx 1.25mm) increments. Std ports are tested up to .400" (10mm), modified ones to .450" (11.25mm) lift.

Someone was asking about flow figures for Markos head. My laptop on the flowbench shat itself a couple of weeks ago, I have all the figures on a memory stick somewhere here, just need to dig it out. I've attached some figures for a head I just finished this week, similar to Markos but with .5mm o/s valves. Std and modified flow curves are plotted. This head has standard shaped chambers, standard sized port openings, radiused/5 angle seats, a fair amount of bowl and short turn work and the exhaust bump removed. The tests were done with a radiused intake bellmouth the same size as the standard manifold. All readings are at a depression of 28" water. Markos head was a touch less on the intake, very similar exhaust. It is possible to get much higher cfm readings but it kills air speed. For peak power it would work ok with a much bigger port but what you lose in the low to mid lifts isn't worth it. Increasing the exhaust port opening does pick up about 25cfm but the manifold kills it anyway so I prefer to keep it small and stop reversion. intake/exhaust percentage is up a fair way most of the range until it hits the higher lifts where the exhaust valve size kills it. I just finished an evo9 head before this one and they make an RB26 look fairly average, I'll post up a graph for it if anyone is interested.

similar to the photos below:

I have to admit Marko, you're the first person I've done an engine for that's sent me an email saying "I know this may seem like a gay request..." I'm pretty accommodating but there are limits...

P.S. the cams are Camtech, just ground on Kelford billets.

Nice fat curve there Marko! I'm glad you're happy, you got 4 more Kw than I planned, it must have been swapping the cam pulleys so you could see the shiny one

Make the sump bigger and strip the paint off the inside of it, every second one I've seem seems to have peeling paint around the underside of the baffles, even after just a quick clean in the spin wash. I've welded up a box and fitted a modified version of the swinging gate baffles I put in the 26 sumps and it seems to work fine, around 6 litres from empty.

No problem. I'll get to the RD28 tomorrow I hope, have spent the last few days porting so I'll be glad to be doing something clean for a change. There is a definite difference in shape with the torque plate on, I bore them without it and fit it to hone the last .005-.006" out. You can feel the hone chatter when you start, there are high and low spots at the top inch or a bit more of the bore. You can see pretty plainly when you pull one apart that isn't torque plated, there are always shadowy bits in line with the head bolt threads where the rings don't seal properly. Cheers, Greg

I've done it both ways on an RB and the difference is negligible plus its awkward to square the ring properly with the torque plate fitted as it's only slightly larger than the bore size.