GoHard

Coz it does the same job for about $2. Not trying to screw ya or anything, just answering your question.

Ebay too. Even better if your near a capital, more luck with pick up. Then u can suss out before you buy. Heaps of stuff always popping up all over Aus.

Hmm... I guess that explains why I have never heard of this been done. Thanks for the reply

Yo yo, Debating with myself where to post this, here or fabrication and used search but no luck so don't hate on. Because like... EVERY SINGLE drivers seat I have come across in a R33 is pretty bad around the wing area. Most not quite as bad as mine (steel bar sticking out ) I was looking at getting a second hand seat with not quite as much damage and then I got thinking... then looking... then still thinking... I busted out the torch and got in a nice uncomfortable upside down position and from what I can make out... Both passenger and driver seats can be totally removed from rails, and these bolts appear to be in the same place on drivers and passenger seats. This so? Thats one issue, next is the obvious reason of the lever being on the wrong side, but will the mechanism seperate from the seat when the bolts are removed? Thanks guys, If this worked it would be a good way of getting a nice cheap wear free drivers seat

Yeah, give it to me

I would, but im in wollongong. Anyone a bit closer to home have one they wanna 'rent'? I might just jump on e-bay and get one, then try flog it back off on ebay as a 'used once' otherwise...

Ah Sick fellas! How does it sound backwards like that? looks much nicer. Now I don't know if it was because my sub was a cheap POS, or this: But my sub has died... Dunno what happened but it just rattles now. Its all good because it gave me the excuse to get a new sub. Got a dual 4 ohm so I can pump it at 2ohm and the fat bastard dont fit behind the strut anymore...Hell, It wouldn't even fit back in the original enclosure So yeah just keep that in mind guys, I don't think free-airing a enclosure type sub could damage it, but... Yeah, careful fellas

So considering its been like... 1 and a half years, do we know if the bog went the distance?

Hey bro cheers. Naah it's a bit of a bitch aye. Thats what I wanted to do at first, but It wasn't gonna happen. With that size sub anyway, and its got a pretty small arse for a 12" I rekon. You would also be surprised how little space it takes up. Because its mounted from the other side that takes a bit of the size off, and its raised up a bit. Hell of a lot less space than the box anyway. None of it actually planned out how I wanted it Flush wouldn't work because of as you said, ecu's or whatever they are hanging down. and turning it around as I have done isn't really practical because the strut bar only lets you go so high, and it doesn't clear the shelf-thing in front. If you have a look in the 10th pic down, you can just make out a pencil line of where the sub would be... about a 3rd is booming about 50mm away from steel. It still sounds fine though. I don't boom the thing. its just for an extra kick. I wouldn't mind actually getting one of those strut bars that go under the rear window, and piss the stock one off. Its a pain. I dunno if this would be a good idea, but you could have the amps in that space your talking about. Thats where they originally were but dont like the idea of having them in there heating up and getting bass spat at them. KiWi bRo! Too Meke, OOUUR! My sister lives in Wellington.

Hey guys and gals, Was trying to come up with an alternative to having a sub box sitting in the boot... It would seem to end up on the other side of the boot on occasions So I was looking around for some ideas and saw a forum member made custom f/g enclosures for the right hand side but I want my boot back so I came up with a way to fit a 12" sub behind the strut bar... with only one screw! Still needs a layer of carpet but cfb at the moment. You get the drift. Tools You will need: -16mm MDF. Bunnings sells a piece 450mm x 900mm that fits PERFECTLY for $9.50 -Jig Saw -Drill -8mm Drill Bit -Socket Wrench (with 12mm and 21mm sockets) -Measuring Tape -Pencil -Your sub and a boot of a r33 (Series II) -8x50mm Machine Screw I'm not sure if all boots are the same. I have the rear wiper and the motor clears it no worries. If you follow all the measurments exactly it should fit straight in. First, Strip everything out. the side bits of carpet, the back, the floor, the spare wheel and the strut bar only (21mm socket) Once this is off wack on the 12mm Socket and take the left stut mount off. Now. I dont know what order all these pictures are gonna come out like so you may have to do some scrolling around but all the pictures below with the dimensions are your template Because of the variations in sizes of a '900 x 450' piece of MDF all measurements are taken from the top. Do not measure from the bottom. The Sub hole size is for my sub btw... I dont know how big yours is... Cut all all the pieces out with the jigsaw and drill and do a test fit. There is a bit of a technique to getting it in there. First get the top behind the wiper motor, while moving it to the right, behind the Right Strut Mount. The bottom part of this Strut mount should slide into The 8mm x 27mm cut-out. Next, put the 8mm Machine Screw in the hole and line it up with the hole in the bracket hanging down from the top left. If it all fits well, put the left strut mount back on to see if there is clearance (unfortunatley its such a tight fit, taking this off is the only way to get the MDF in and out) All good? Take it all out and screw your sub in. Ok, once your ready to put it in, grab the carpet lining for the left hand side and get some tape and feed it through the bottom hole and then through the bottom hole of the left strut bar. this will hold the top hole in place for the machine screw to go through the top hole in the carpet. I know this sounds confusing... I am struggling to explain it but you will get what I am talking about when your doing it. Heres a photo... Massive bodgey Job but it's just to hold it there. its all you need. as I say its just to hold it. now start tucking it all behind the MDF as you put the strut mount back on the two studs. before the machine screw goes in, line the hole up with the holes in the carpet and the bracket and pop it through, with the carpet inbetween the MDF and the bracket. the weight will hold the machine screw in there tightly. Now put the nylon nuts back on the strut mount. Now you can put the strut bar back on and the bolts will actually dig into the MDF a bit and lock it in there. Thats how you can get away with no fixing points. Although I do reccomend finding some other way of supporing it. there are heaps of screw holes around, just use your imagination. I made a bracket that attatched to the fuel pump cover but that was before I realised the threads are like... nylon or some cheap crap. I don't wanna go pulling on them but this is what it looked like before I decided to turf it. Then just stick your amps where ever you like. here's where I stuck em... and this weapon is no more... Any Questions feel free. Good Luck

Hey guys, Just to let you know... Turns out cylinders 2&6 are down 50 pound! I cant believe its so bad, yet still has guts! Its not quite the news I wanted but hey, dont check it out before you buy, be prepared for a roller coaster ride. Just wanna thank you guys who recommended Kon, I agree he seems good quality. Need to find myself a good engine and will get him to pop it in f'sure.

Hey man, Still got it? 50 bucks incl postage, ill go that? ...Or give it a chance. Bajo and Hex on Good Game both gave it 10/10 last night. Edit: man... Wrong game aye. If it were PORTAL on the other hand... I need to go to bed

Yeah... Cheers. Looks like it will be off the road for a little bit. Ive been saving up for this puppy, expecting this in th future... Not the next day. This crap wasn't planned in my budget. Got a bunch of un-skyline (but still money related) issues pop up too. I tell ya, when it rains... It pours. I found one of those leak down kits on ebay for $100, and a work matey has a compresser and wouldn't mind a tester so gonna go halvies with him. 50 bucks... Why not. Might use this gararged time to do some painting of the calipers and stuff... What else are some cheap (and preferably time consuming) mods i can do while im waiting to save? Any ideas?

Matt, Your a Champ. Exactly the info that I need at the moment I rekon. I tried searchin, and searchin, and searchin, and all I could find was "Stuart at Bezerkly!" "Stuart at Bezerkly!" "Stuart isn't at Bezerkly anymore and doesn't really do the peformance cars anymore!" I did send him a pm but it looks like hes not really active at the moment. Will try Kon out. Thanks very much for that, Matt. -Cheers

Hey guys and gals. Prematurly signed up with the forums all for the wrong reasons. Heads not working right so I missed that there was a NSW section here. I started a thread elsewhere about engine or turbo or both issues. Any help is much appreciated. Heres the link http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/360204-r33-engineturbo-advice/ -Cheers

Thanks the help, very much appreciated. Sorry these photos are prob turn out big... 1st two photos are some black hoses. they kinda split up all over the show 3rd photo shows where one ends up on the drivers side (turns into a blue hose) 4th photo is hard to make out, but there is a little black box where a few of the hoses go into 5th photo shows a blocked hose next to BOV, assuming thats 'normal' (as normal as BOVs can get, anyway) 6th and 7th you might spot somthing, just ask and I can take a closer pic As per the tests, I have no idea who/what/where hence coming on to the forums, but that sounds like a good idea. If someone knows of a reputable mob in my area that would be cool. I kinda didn't look hard enough obviously... theres a NSW section?

Ok I took it for a spin and can confirm it maxes out at 7psi. I think it could be holding itself at 5psi until a certain rpm, but much lower than 4,500. It will easily be on 7psi by 3,000rpm maybe even lower.

Hmmm... Thanks for the clear up there. OK Im gonna take it for a spin now, and Ill check it out. When I said 7psi, I ment I have litterally seen it at 7 only once, and I wouldn't be surprised if I was at over 4,500 because it was a 'check to see how high it gets' glance, and read bang on 7... But I could have read it wrong, Ill check. before I go, just to confirm 'disconnecting' the boost controller and flicking the power button to off do the same thing? man testing this out is going to upset some people behind me. Just to let you know the ammount of smoke I'm talking... umm... looks thicker than a burnout pad with something VERY powerful burning rubber. ALOT of smoke... I had to get infront of a car today so I gave it a bit of a boost and then had to stop at red lights and im just sitting there with about 10 cars all submerged in my oil smoke and there was a cop up ahead. Not a nice feeling.

Well it was in my original plans to get rid of the BOV, but it doesn't seem at the top of my priority list at the moment. Im sorry but I dont't quite understand you about the 5psi or 7psi. Sorry this just reminds me of another mod There is a aftermarket boost and water gauge also. when you say 4,500rpm if its still hooked up, are you talking about the factory boost gauge on the dash? Im about to do a run down to the shops. I shall give it a bit, change at 4,500 and record my boost? Anything else you would like me to try jot down? Vacuum?

Hey Jenna, Yeah its had a few things done to it. as far as I know the turbo is stock, but it does have a boost controller that I ironicly (believe it or not) have left off until I get a bit more adapted to the car. It was a rainy and dark drive home, and as you can sorta see the headlights arn't that flash (the only bad thing about the exterior) so I left it off. Next day the smoke so I have never actually got to use it. its a dual one that can be adjusted, but apparently it has been tuned low-9psi and high-11psi and can be adjusted higher and lower. It has a aftermarket fuel pump, FMIC, one of them noisy friggin BOV's, 2.5" exaust, ummmmmmm... thats about the only mods that I can think of, drivetrain related (they were listed with the carsales listing, but its gone now so I have no more record) the only camera I have at the moment is my iphone, so Ill give it a go and see how they turn out... but for what needs to be seen I guess quality will be an issue. Ill be back. Cheers Edit: Sorry I forgot about the boost question I dont actually like doing it, so when I do boost it i'm not really looking at the guage, but I did see it reach 7 once when i actually looked. and another modification I forgot is the airfilter. Dunno what it is but it looks like a big fluffy mushroom (fair saturated in oil I might ad)

Sorry, also if there is anyone in the Illawarra who can recommend a place for me to check the turbo out that would be good. If I go through with getting the turbo sorted, what process and cost would I be looking at? Cheers

G'day fellow Aussie enthusiasts, 'Names Sam. I am in a bit of strife at the moment so forgive me for not going to the 'Introduce yourself' section first. I was planning on eventually making it here, but if I may just cut to the chase. Sams my name, Im a Kiwi born and bred living in Wollongong NSW and... I love Skylines Anywho- I just bought a 1996 GTS-T Series II on Wednesday. Took her for a spin last Sunday and my (very uneducated) verdict of the car was allround good (nothing obviously wrong with it) So I picked her up from a bloke in Sydney Wednesday arvo (Private sale) drove back to the Gong (just over an hour) went to work the next day (yesterday) all is good. Lunch comes around and I went to maccas... Holy crap here we go. Theres a bit of a hill on the way so (just normaly, not going hard) kept the revs up for it. Apon changing gears MASSIVE burst of blue smoke poured out of the exaust. I have 1.5 days experience owning a car with a turbo so I had/have NO IDEA about them btw. when I get back to work, massive smell of burnt oil. Put my cheek on the ground and there is oil burning off the exaust. appears to be leaking out of the (sorry im not mechanicly minded at all) "Top main cover thingy" Lovely, its getting better. Put it down to the turbo because it only does the smoke when the turbo is getting a decent boost. (on-ramp on a freeway, up a hill etc) but then why at the same time my engine start leaking. no sign of oil leak until the blowing of the smoke. So I took her in this morning to a 'mate of a mate''s mechanic. I can tell this mechanic is trustworthy, but he doesn't touch performance cars anymore he said. just a service kinda shack. He said yeah its probably the Turbo. Then I told him to take it for a spin and give it a little hit (he was just reving it to check for smoke, very little smoke). He comes back feeling very simpathetic for me... He reckons the ammount of smoke is saying it could well be more than just the turbo... Engine has a fair bit ammount blow-by too. SO. I guess I have 3 options: 1st Piss it off and loose a massive ammount of money 2nd Take it into a Turbo place and apparently have them tell me the engine is screwed without really knowing 3rd Find a complete setup (reconditioned, imported, other) and have the engine bay replaced... If I drive with little/no boosting the engine runs smooth as hell. I can even get it up to 7 pound with no smoke, which makes me think the engine is fine. but then there is the oil coming from the cover so I dont know. Its just as I said hills etc will cause this (and loooooooots of smoke when it does) I am after advice on what I should do. If there was no oil leak, and no smoke I wouldn't know there was somthing wrong. It drives fine. If I have to do the extreme, for piece of mind I guess would like a full overhaul so I guess I would ask to start there. What options, and at what price would I be looking at to get a new engine/turbo? or are there any other suggestions that I may not have thought of? Ill try to put a couple of pics here of the car, Im not sure if this is gonna work. I seriously am a n00b. Please dont hate on me for that, im a little depressed at the mo. Cheers