Steve

hiep, Regency dont have any duty of care that can be legally upheld, and they cannot be sued (well they can but you will never win a class act against them) due to a little cause in the road traffic act 1961, its para 163K that states: Limitation of liability 163K. No person who does any act in pursuance or purported pursuance of this Part, or omits to exercise any power conferred under this Part, is under any civil or criminal liability in respect of that act or omission if the person acted, or omitted to act, in good faith and with reasonable care. The 'Part' reffered to above is Part 4, which deals with defect notices, vehicle inspections and the 'inspection authority' or regency. by the way Hiep, there is a Nismo square type R33 grill second hand at D1 if you are still chasing one, and its silver:)

Having said that, I would really like to see the dyno anyhows:)

Simonster, dont want to swap your 0.73 for a 0.87 do you? Sly33, yes running out of puff is when the power drops off at the top. The peak power will be the same no matter what gear its run in. What will be different is the power before peak will be 'fatter' in a lower gear, as power is a function of torque at rpm. Therefore the mechanical advantage of a lower gear will produce more toque (twisting effort) at lower gears, earlier in the rev range. End of the day though, dont look at the dyno too closely, as it is an indication of power and how it is delivered - what is important is firstly that the mods make gains and secondly that the car drives better than before. With that turbo, it should be a really nice street turbo with heaps of mid range for that engine. Should be heaps of fun:)

You could always paint it:p

Thanks for that, I will definately look into it Cheers Steve

:D

I am chasing a turbine housing for a HKS GT30 turbo, but I need to know if the garrett turbine housing to suit GT30 will fit a 60mm major with 55mm exducer. Must be GT25 inlet with GT30 outlet too. I was after a 0.73 AR, which garrett dont do (as its HKS),so I was wondering if you had contact details to I could find out compatibility/price for the garrett items? either that or if you could ask your contact? Cheers Steve

skyline33, definately need a GT30 Merli, will the garrett turbine housing fit up and do the same job as the HKS one? although they only have different sizes to HKS.

If anybody has one of these please. I am in Adelaide Cheers Steve

Sly, definately give it a go at higher boost. 1.5 bar wont hurt it if, as sydneykid points out, its done with a good tune and a good eye on the AF ratios. Tilbrook now have laptop for GTS power fc, would definately be worth having a look in. And a merry christmas to you too sydneykid, and everyone else:)

Depends on where he takes you for lunch:D

Yep, definately loose top end. I tried some different cam settings on Dyno2003 software. the more advance on the inlet, the better the midrange, the more retard on the exhaust, the better the mid range. I tried using -6 deg on the exhaust and it started killing power above 6000rpm. Advancing the inlet seems to bring power on earlier, but takes it away above 4500rpm (interesting I though, as this is where nissan swich off NVCS on RB25DET). As mentioned, +1 on the inlet, and -4 on the exhaust seem to be the 'classic' settings for more midrange without killing top end too much.

Oh, and make sure you wind in a bit more boost and see the difference it make on a HKS turbo:D

Congrats on a good result, good power for a street car, should come on boost pretty early too. Thats the same power it (a 2530 turbo) made on a mates RB20 at 1.2 bar. I didnt notice a huge amount of top end difference with a front/dump pipe done, but boost came in quicker. Please post up a dyno when you get it. Cheers Steve

JNR24, I wrote up a detailed description on this a few months ago, do a search:) Also, make sure you dont have too much petrol in your tank, and get some cardboard and trace around the stock pump and pickup - that way when you put it back together with the new pump, you can get the pickup in the exact spot it should be. You will need some hose from the pump to the pickup, so get your self about 6" to fit the barb fitting for the bottom of the fuel pump - make sure its a tight fit, as teh stock pickup is smaller than the barb fitting so needs to be clamped in place too. You will also need about 12" of hose from the banjo connector on top of the pump to the fuel tank top. Once again use hose clamps (pressure). Good luck, its not a bad job to do as long as you have the bits before you start, unlike me:)

HER_1VIA, think again (beat you to it Rob;))

Hi all, I just bought an APEXi strut brace off a guy in Qld. On arrival here I noticed two small scratches where something has been rubbing against it, which werent evident in the photo - but bottom line is I dont wont to put it on my car anymore. The guy in Qld has agreed to take it back, as he has others who were interested in buying it, BUT it will cost me once more in postage, which was $15. It is annodised red, with carbon inlay and a silver APEXi sticker in the middle. If anybody here would like to buy it, I will sell it for $155 (originally cost me $170 plus post), as I will get $170 back for it, just it will cost me another $15. Pictures are on this thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=29412 Cheers Steve

Phark, in that case I will never have a good skyline dammit:( spose I'll just have to go out and get an auto conversion done;)

Its pretty funny (no offence raist60) when people say I can get xxx kw from this particual part. Thats the beauty of boost, enough will overcome alot of restriction. Just remeber VL commodores have been running 9s for a long long time - I had a discussion with a guy who owned one, thought the best way to make more power was fully port the head, bigger turbo and up the boost, then was disgusted when he had a very narrow powerband. Same guy scoffed at the idea of bolting an RB25 head on - there is no doubting alot of power can be made with stock parts, just doesnt mean its the most efficient or 'best' way of doing things. Just horses for courses I guess.

hippy, I know you dont like spending money, but your tight fistedness never ceases to amuse me:D if you dont spend a few bucks getting it tuned properly, it will only cost you money when you have to rebuild the engine:p

Trust do a bolt on replacement AFAIK. I have seen them second hand for around $800 or so. New not so sure, guessing around $1400-$1600 depending on exhange rate etc.

Buy a Jap one. The japanese have spent huge amounts of time and massive amounts of $$$ to get their manifolds working right. there is a difference - as I found out the hard way. Very expensive when you may end up having to change to a different manifold, because the one you bought isnt doing the job it is supposted to. I have already posted a thread detailing my problems, might be worth doing a search.

Seems like a bit of DIS information here. Yes a skyline does have stock boost control. The controller is not an adjustable type, just bleeds off xxx amount of pressure (to the wastegate) to generate 5psi(stock) to 5000 rpm, and 7 psi (stock) 5000-7000rpm. the reason a cat back will raise boost (on stock boost control) is, as mentioned, the drop in back pressure, you should expect around 2psi - if of course you have an EBC it will not make any difference. Boost is measured from the plenum, boost for wastegate control is usually taken from the compressor outlet, or very close to it - there is a difference. Stock intercooler can have a massive pressure drop above 6000rpm, as the boost is measured from the plenum, even though the boost guage see xxx psi of boost, the turbo will be producing much higher boost than being measured. A good intercooler will allow you to run higher boost more safely than the stock intercooler due to a lesser pressure drop over the stock unit, also, it is most likely more efficient than the stock nissan interwarmer, therefore will give power gains at the same boost over the stock unit as well. Hope that makes sense.

Hmm, well if you have got a 3" from front pipe back, you 'should' be getting more than 5-6psi. Stock boost is 5psi to 5000rpm then 7 psi to redline, you should have a couple of extra pounds with cat back.. dynos not bad though, I didnt read the previous posts and didnt realise it was an auto till after I posted:)

Good idea! it still amazes me that a RAWs workshop has to be iso assured, but then Regency can come along and not pass the cars. I agree, it is time for Regency to work with car owners, not against them.