Steve

RiGo, quite happy to pay the price you are asking, please check pm - this is mine:)

RiGo, pm sent

R34GTT-R, mine is similar, in that they collect 6-1, but my runners are a bit longer and tuned length. But then again, If it were me, I would be trying to acquire the street type HKS one, as Merli posted the pic of. I was told that apparently the single collector before the turbine housing is used to blend and accellerate the gasses before it hits the turbo. Good luck

the factory speedo isnt accurate either, it reads high.

You have got to be kidding.

Very nice - make sure you post up a post fitment report:)

Oh, and the AFM hit full (5.1V) at 4500rpm:)

http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogu...haft-specs.html 4500rpm is where the NVCS turns off. How is your fuel? 4-5k is peak torque. I had troubles with mine, as AFM had reached max voltage, and I was using stock fuel pump which just wasnt up to the task. this was with only FMIC and Power FC running 12psi on stock turbo. Good luck

Mods, heaps. Power, I dont know - havent had it on a dyno since the cams and head gasket went in.

have you had a wheel alignment done? Also, I dont think any of the law abiding members of this forum would dream of speeding on public roads - you do mean you were doing 120 on a private road dont you? I certainly dont have any vibrations problems when driving at 120kmh (but only on private roads or the track of course), and I have whiteline castor bushes and pineapples fitted.

What boost control are you running, if it is stock it would explain somewhat, as the stock boost control is 2 stage, with a cat back you would be getting around 7psi until 5000rpm (magical figure) then 9 psi from 5000 to redline. 2psi isnt alot, but it can make a noticeable difference. I have heard you can hotwire the stock boost solenoid so you get the full boost across the rev range, or install a bleed valve. If you want the best in boost control and have the dollars, go for an EBC. Also, with front mount, its safe to run 12 psi without any problems.

pillow, or pillow ball is another way of saying rosejoint.

Perhaps your TPS is playing up. Would be pretty easy to swap with a working one and see.

Roy, with mine, all 6 come together, but I dont think the angle that they joint at is particularly good. All the jap ones I have seen seem to blend alot smother (like in your photo) where as mine is sort of a BOOSTD described, all colliding together just before exiting. I am not sure what ID of the pipe is. I didnt want a savage hit of boost, no good for daily driving, well in traffic anyway:) Warpspeed, I will be trying the cam, straight after I see if I can give a smaller turbine housing a go. If I get good results from the housing swap, I think it would be fair to say its the manifold that is causing the main of the grief. I am a bit hesitant to blame the inlet cam, as they are the smallest made for GTS, so its a bit hard for me to get my head around it being such a massive step backwards. I was under the impression that the cam stays in the fully retarded position, as disconnecting it with stock cams killed the mid range. Also, I have seen back to back with and without the VVT on stock cams, and the without had a big hole in the middle.

Thanks for that Merli, that sounds like a sweet setup you had, 1.2bar in by 3800rpm and I would be very, very happy.

Goddam, I wish some of these japanese 'spurt of speed' ladies would entertain me on a train - I never carry more than about $50 in my wallet..hehehehe

Hey Glenn, you asked how the new turbine housing was going - one word, shit. I think the problem is the manifold (custom 6into1), as the car has turned into a lag monster. Now I just have to find a smaller housing to prove the theory as I changed cams, headgasket and plenum at the same time. Good luck with the new place.

God damn up themselves Delta Goodrem lookalikes:( J/K Miss 33 but this whole jelly wrestling idea just got a whole lot better:D Shannon (Miss*33) isnt exactly bad on the eye either.

Skyline may have better power to wait, but I think you are underestimating the extra torque an SR20 can make - that makes alot of difference. Also, what is the diff ratio on an S13 vs R33? Do agree with you though lindsey, the driver is the biggest factor:)

GTR Ben, those runners look a very similar lenght to mine (sub zero), but a bit hard to tell, also mine is mainly pipebends, and goes down and back up if you know what I mean. I like the large wastegate pipes on the HKS manifold too, I think perhaps the wastegate is somewhat overlooked sometimes, it can do more than control boost, the right size can also do alot to relieve back pressure from what I understand.

Sorry Clint, I dont have any photos. I am still going to get my oil cooler fitted pretty soon, so you will be able to check it out when I come looking for oil lines;) thanks for the offer of the manifold, I will keep it in mind when I have determined for sure it is the manifold that is the cause of my woes (when I change the turbine housing again) Merli, what manifold are you using? which cams and turbine housing? And lastly, where exactly do you get good (say around 1 bar) boost being made? Cheers Steve

I was always planning on 256 in and 264 exh. I have seen this combo used with very good success. It is interesting that the smallest inlet cam HKS make would have such a detrimental effect. You got it right, inlet and exhaust (256/8.8 x 264/9.0) adj exh cam gear, 1.6mm head gasket, 0.87 turbine housing and a trust plenum. Also, I am pretty sure Merli is using 256/264, and he has good boost from just under 4krpm, and he is using a HKS 3040 with a larger turbine housing from memory. It just doesnt add up. I am pretty sure the cams are good, esp as disconnecting the VCT didnt result in an increase of power, as it should being that the cam would be further advanced to 4500rpm resulting in more overlap - please correct me if I am wrong. Seriously, I have been going over and over this, as has Richard, there is only one unknown, and it is built more like a jap drag manifold than a jap street one - everything else is a good thing, it has been proven. I now have a trust plenum, I didnt want to mess with another aust made job. Too much R&D in trust to ignore, as it appears there is in HKS manifolds. Roy, what make is your manifold? Wanna sell it:) or even better trade:D got a really nice tuned length job, ceramic coated and works killer with smaller turbine housing;) Once I get a smaller housing on and see how it goes, it will become more apparent, if it still is sluggish, look somewhere else, but at this stage, best method of attack is to start looking at any unknown quantity first, I hope:)

I am running with a 256/8.8. I was thinking it might be reversion too, but with the VVT disconnected it ran worse, wouldnt it run better with it disconnected if overlap was causing the problem? Also, it doesnt die inthe bum, it just takes ages for the boost to come in. I still have the stock inlet cam, might be worth a try, esp if changing the turbine housing doesnt do much. Pity I still havent got my head around this Dyno 2003.

have you had the BOV checked out?

Yeah, dollars:) I was thinking it might be a good back up for if I ever decide to do a 3L. Much torqueyer (if there is such a word) engine, and bigger capacity would make a big difference. I am also wondering if it would be possible to mod the manifold, shorten the runners and put a collector collector before the gasses hit the turbine housing. Also, it 'may' be reasonable with an inbetween size housing on there. A few different options, so I think I will tread a little more carefully for now. It does get expensive when you factor in dump, wastegate pipe, and all the pipework off the compressor on top of the cost of the manifold. I am not too sure I would like to sell to anyone unless they were doing a 3L or after a drag setup. I will just try the next size down in housing for the time being, I may be lucky and strike a nice balance between runner length/turbine housing/backpressure - fingers crossed.