Steve

so is it ok to drive in aus with a nz licence?

RIPS sells RB30 engines converted for 4wd for GTR/GTS4 - perhaps drop him a pm?

Just found a link with nice pics that explain it: http://www.cusco.co.jp/english/e_lsd.html it also shows the center, which will most likely be inside a casing, but you should still be able to see the 'key way' that activates the locking of the diff.

yes, in the diff center. Its a bit hard to describe, but basically there is a key in the diff that will be different shapes. It works by pushing plates apart, that cause the clutches to engage. the 1 way will be like a triangle, 1.5way will be like 2 triangles, but one side will be truncated, and a 2 way will be like two triangles with their bases together (like a square on its side) Sorry its a bit hard to describe without a diagram.

I got it from powerplay imports, as posted above:) Also, they had it sitting there for a while (probably because the guy thought it was a 1 way, gotta love it when they dont quite know what they are looking at:D) - when I rang up I asked if he had a 2 way, he told me he only had a 1 way, but didnt want much for it, which for $350, even if it was a 1 way, was a bargain. I dont think he has any more, but you could try. Do a search for contact details, as they have a website

I did things a little differently, as I cut the rubber OEM bushes back level with the cradle when fitting,

Update, diff arrived, and surprise surprise its a 2 way nismo:D:D:D so I reckon I got close to the bargian of the century - absolutely stoked. I didnt realise quite how bad the stock diff is until I fitted this thing. especially noticeable when coming onto boost and taking off at the lights where I used to get the rears (or one rear) chirping all the time. Now I can just feed on the throttle as I move off and she just launches - heaps better, feels alot quicker. The transition to oversteer is so much better too, no longer just snaps sideways, just gradually moves out and then comes back nicely (unless you just go nuts with the loud pedal). If I knew how bad the stock diff really was, I would have upgraded along time ago.

good bov, fully adjustable so you can set where it lifts. the second hosetail connector (the one pointing down in your pic) is used to help lift the valve when you have the spring tightened for high boost applications. It works by plumbing it from in front of the throttle body (the other line connects to the plenum, as per normal) and when you take your foot off, it assists in pushing the valve open. this allows you to tension the valve up higher than would otherwise be possible if you were using only vacuum to lift it off when the throttle shuts. hope that makes sense.

nice, yeah they are a killer turbo - I expect to see a thread with a dyno printout soon and full details:) the temp probe is temp correction - which is a good thing that power fc doesnt do for GTS unfortuneately - but I have found that tuning the car on a cool day, with conservative timing has allowed me to run 1.7bar all day, hot (40deg) or not. Detonation is really low. Congrats on the tune, once again, post up the dyno and FULL details please - gotta love HKS turbos;)

good luck, I think I can safely say that every one here would love to see it happen too - after all the bad luck you have had, you are due a good break.

Duncan, how many 9 second GTRs have you built/owned/driven?

SK, didnt realise Japanese had a different ps??? must be the the sphincter of the universe:) Merli, thanks for the link

dont think I would like an ECU to start pulling timing, if want that, get a SAFC and ITC. unless of course the setting is removed when you turn the ignition off. I dont see the point in paying hundreds of dollars to get a car tuned, if, as soon as the knock sensor picks up knock (eg, using too low a gear under load) the ecu starts pulling timing. Power fc has knock sensor, that show the user when it detects knock, but its up to the driver to take action. You can pull a couple of degrees of timing or add fuel across the range with one adjustment, which will erase once you turn the ignition off, or if you remove it yourself. And of course you can turn boost down. Beside that, whatsisname is getting very good results from his Microtec, well over 260rwkw now. Wolf is a very nice looking ECU too, just wish I lived in the west still so SteveSST could work his magic:) I think one variable that definately needs consideration, apart from what ecu, is who will be doing the tuning - I had a guy who wasnt very conversant with power fc tune mine and wasted nearly 600 dollars, but put him behind an autronic or motec and the guy can do wonders.

this might make it easier for you http://www.onlineconversion.com/power.htm convert straight from ps to kw and it comes out 425kw I think your problem is the Jacks, everybody knows the sphincter of the universe is a much better drop:p

WTF???? Really sorry to hear - any thoughts on the cause? did the block just give up the ghost? 480rwkw is pretty bloody impressive from a streeter, and pretty brave to run 2 bar on a high (for a turbo) CR engine. once again sorry to hear. That car sounded soooo sweet.

yes, dont tell anyone he says, then advertises to the world????

you could take a copy of a greddy plenum, then mod them to suit RB20 - you would make a killing. sounds like fun, even if you do fark it. still chuckling about the thought of an RG250 being converted to a two stroke Vtwin 1000cc - a shame you never completed that one ylwgtr2 - I would pay money to see that:)

That's pretty funny really (ok, I have a weird sense of humour) - I reckon I could convince just about anybody to do illegal things with enough money:p If every one had my high standards though, loose change would probably be enough:D

that explains a bit, but I was just going off SKs post. still seams like a hell of alot of driveline loss. Also, SK talks of 330rwkw from 2530, so that means, from the same loss, 115kw loss for rw drive (330rwkw for 2530 vs 310rwkw for GTSS) either way, I still think that SKs sceptical bone needs a recalibration:D:P

Sydneykid perhaps its closer to 425rwkw? that skeptical bone is playing tricks I think.

how did it end up working out compared to buying in Aust? any saving? Its weird, I must be one of the luckiest people around, so far I have bought heaps of stuff, but never been slugged - sometimes the packages havent even been opened for inspection. when there isnt a significant cost saving buying OS, I have always bought locally - gotta support the local business, but not when it costs twice as much (or more) as buying direct:)

congrats Matt, into the 12s! good TS, shows heaps of potential esp 'cos of the high temps, and dare I say it, less than optimal 60' times:) Good to hear the engine held out, I know you werent too comfortable about running in the heat, as, I think, not too many people would be.

hmmm, those king bearings sound tasty, but then again, can you believe a salesman? what sort of applications have they been successfully used in?

I think its pretty funny, finally, aussie manufacturers drag themselves into the 21st century. actually its probably more sad than funny:) good to see its finally happened though, now if they could just improve build quality....

Just had a thought too, has he thought about Nismo bearings? they are a good thing from all reports.