Steve

skylinegeoff, perhaps do a search, there has been alot of info about the Wolf on this forum.

sorry if I took you out of your comfort zone.... didnt realise you were a homophobe:p I have edited my post for you:)

:grouphug: for whatsisname, cheeky and t-man chins up and remeber, we all love you guys (except TIMMMAAYY, cos he is a bit scared it may have nutman connotations:p) Chris32, not sure yet, I think matt was going to sus things out, but I will be in there on monday morning, so I shall see what shaun says hippy - no

hardly call sponsorship being a ricer - you are just jealous hippy, I think you may be a bit of a closet ricer - just too tight to buy the stickers. I actually have a couple of spare ones if you want them:p

if you can find BCPR7ES without the -11 on the end, they will be already gapped to 0.8 - but make sure you check the gap just to be sure before fitting them.

erm, dont understand, how can the engine not be turning over after the starter disengages. If it is only momentariy, perhaps they need just enough warmth from the friction of starting to grip? like brakes when they screech just for a moment when they are cold, but usually only at low speed? I hope for your sake it is belts, cos otherwise it sounds expensive:)

sydneykid, if you are building another RB31, have a look at the T51R specs, the dyno is with an RB28 http://www.hks-power.co.jp/products/turbo/...p/waste_sp.html not so shabby either, less cost than twins:)

well it kicks off at 11, come in early, get your car up, have a couple of snags, and then head off? up to you, but it would be good for as many people as possible to come along.

I am running 25psi with 0.8mm gap and no probs what heat range are your plugs?

well they may, if you dont have it wired ot the hand brake - mine was connected so it only operates with the handbrake applied. this is what I was told is the only legal way in WA - where I had it fitted SA, different story. One of the ADRs (25 from memory) states normal function of the engine must cease when the ignition is in the off position. SA interprets this differently to WA, and says you are not allowed to have a turbo timer at all. its interesting though, that a commercial vehicle of over 3 tonnes (from memory) has different ADRs that apply and therefore turbo timers are legal? Some manufacturer, I have been told by a deisel mechanic, actually fit turbo timers as OEM items in larger trucks. As you live in SA, I would recommend you fit the timer in a hidden place, and make sure it is wired to the handbrake, for safety reasons and also if you do get pulled over and told to turn your engine off, you can - instant defect otherwise.

offset and stud pattern would help too:)

oops, just noticed the car has been sold:)

I can vouch for this one - old school trick, but it works. just dont put the soap on the bottom of the belt, just the sides.

two places to take timing from on series 1 (that I know of). 1. there is a loop on the back of the ignighter - this will give you double the actual timing, so if you see 30deg on the engine, its acutally 15 deg. 2. remove the cover off the coil packs, and take the signals from number 1 - this will give you the actual timing. A bit more accurate than method 1. not sure if it is the same for series 2, but you can guarantee if you take the signal from no 1 coil pack it will be accurate.

I think this debate is not looking at a pretty important issue the ecu is only as good as who is pushing the buttons I have had good tunes on my power fc, and I have had shockers Whatsisname used a microtech to run a 12 at the 4,6 and rotor nats on a 44 deg day. The car idles perfectly, and drives very well on and off boost. I am not in a position to start debating which is better, I chose power fc, I am happy with it, but there are feature I wish it had. I would be very tempted to look at microtech, as I have seen first hand what they are capable of. The wolf ecu looks quite nice too. If I had my choice and funds werent a problem, it would be autronic or motec - if nothing else for the traction control and the nice sequential (rotational) idle - fark it sounds so tough:p

downgrades just used for example. you say upgrades shouldnt be used, but the same applies to an OEM car, bolt on turbos and expect 710ps???? no way. internals? unless its a 2JZ. You say its not fair, but I can give you another example, my car didnt do what I thought it would when my turbo was fitted. Alot of people pointed their finger at the turbo, one guy who owns a tuning shop here (and its very well known, as he is) told me that the response was actually better than he expected. I knew there was more, and kept trying to work out where the weak link/s were. I found them, now the turbo is realising its potential. If I had never seen what the turbo could do, I probably would have been happy with its less than optimal performance. Knowing what it could do, I wasnt happy, but at least I knew the problem wasnt the turbo itself. If I wasnt sure about the turbo, I could have spent alot more time and money trying to fix it - thinking it is not correctly matched to my engine. Would have been a waste of time and money. Example: B-man, buys a GT30 suited to RB25, garret. Gets it on, it doesnt do what it is supposed to, so, the car is going to be off the road a while longer, he has to remove the turbo, return it (they offered to fix it - kind of the company to do R&D at the customers cost eh?), get it back, fit it again, retune, hope that it works properly. Being an unknown quantity, how could he know what the turbo was capable of doing on his car? Read a compressor map, and then start guessing as to what turbine wheel, trim, housing AR? How would he know if he hasnt got a problems somewhere else? Its one more potential weak link, or unknown quantity - after all, the performance is, as you stated the sum of the parts - more variables means more R&D, more cost, more time with the car not doing what you want it to. In the end, instead of the added expense of sending the turbo back and forth, then the added expense of the fit/remove, retune, additional time off the road - he decided to go a HKS3040. How could people recommend them to him? because they know the potential of the turbo. Did he try and bolt it on to a stock engine to get the results he wanted? Of course not. It is a real shame that the GT-RSs arent working well on the cars that they have been fitted to in Aust. You could look at the info on the HKS website and scream unfair, or you could look at the info and find out exactly what has been done to those cars - compare to your own setup, and then be in a postition to learn and improve your own car. It doesnt appear to be just HKS that have had good results with the GT-RS, so what are they doing? why not learn from the poeple that started it all? Or, HKS are full of shit, and deserved to be sued for false advertising

er, the dyno is during the day?

Dont know about the N1s, but would like to see a comparison. You dont think its fair? I dont think it would be fair to fit a $200 fuel pump, stock exhaust, and a ryco replacement panel filter - to try and show what twin 400ps turbos can do. Wouldnt really give an accurate picture, a bit like only reading a compressor map, and not making sure every thing else is up to scratch, then expecting 700ps. Do you know anyone that would buy turbos touted to produce 710ps, and expect to see 710 on a car that was only making 280 from the factory without changing anything else? At least they show the mods, not just a dyno printout, or a compressor map;) Yeah, I knew it was a typo, just couldnt resist, but I will still take you up on the shout:) By the way, did you see the dyno for the T51R with 2.8L - if only I had an RB30...

so you would prefer a 2540 over 2535, based on the HKS website? then why say this: first you say you should make descisions based on website, then you say your decision is based on your experience, but you will still make a recommendation based on a website???? well I dont, I didnt mean to give that impression - but I dont mind throwing my 2c worth in either, its a public forum, trbs asked a question, you used a website to show how good a GT2540 was (imo, it didnt look that good), but the same website showed what I considered to be a better turbo in the 2535, which wasnt any good because you had seen one make only 190rwkw at 25psi. I dont know all that much about turbos, but enough to know that something wasnt right, and that the result could not be indicative of the turbo. do a search, Sly33 has made 230rwkw at 1.2bar on his RB25, he has posted his results on this forum My bad for talking about a 2530 on an RB25, but in this instance we are talking about an RB25 I could have used the example of on an RB20 - yes I do know a guy who owned an RB20 powered cefiro, he owns D1 garage if you ever want to ask him personnaly. but you dont mind quoting figures from a dyno that could be very low reading???? As mentioned, I have two valid examples of 2530, one fitted to RB25, one to RB20 - its not really fair that I compare RB25 to RB20? but its OK for you to compare a RB20 with a 2535 to what you think a 2540 will do on an RB25 ditto

There is a god, I am there:)

Hmm, so how many of the things that you list would most people have not done already before they update the turbos? Cooler? probably not Exhaust? probably not Split dump? probably not oversized 86mm pistons? how are 86mm pistons oversized? ECU - probably not Balance - not really needed for an 8000redline on a GTR or arguably a GTS Head gasket? I thought you said the stock one is fine? Proted? maybe not Cams? How many big HP engines do you build with stock cams? Better make it a double:p

This is almost starting to sound like a holden vs ford thread:)

If you can send to SA, please e-mail me so we can discuss payment and shipping Cheers Steve [email protected]

I have booked 6th of March, so once again, if there are any problems speak up quickly or this date will be set. Runs to start at 11am. on another note, just found out my new wastegate spring (that I just received from Japan) is only 10psi instead of 1 bar - farken, farken FARKEN Anybody got a spare 1 bar wastegate spring to suit HKS standard wastegate? its the yellow one:)

Shrub32, come anyway - should be a good day:)