Steve

And for those that didnt know the lady taking the photos was doing an article for HPI - were all going to be famous:p I got her promise that no rego numbers will appear anywhere in the article of photos

Thanks Lachlan, but I think Boost Worx did most of the organising, all I did is show up:) final results: R33 Bleck: FMIC, Power FC, Exhst, forward facing TB, Manifold, EBC 208kw Hippy: exhst, bleed, pod 160 kw and enough torque to need the boot sat in;) Enrico: FMIC, pod, exhst, EBC, cam gear, unichip 201 Me: 3037S 56T, plenum, manifold, exhst, cams, cam gear, Power FC, EBC 305 Whatsisname: T3/T4, FMIC, exhaust, cam gear, Microtech LT12, exh cam gear, EBC, lots of shiny bits, without fluffy dice 281 with leaking bov, and after a few more tweaks after most people left Freebaggin: GT3040, exhst, Microtech LT12, EBC 263 Grepin: 2835PROS, trust plenum, TB, exhst, FMIC, Power FC, EBC 274 R32 Chris32 FMIC, exhst, HKS 2510, reprog ecu 200 r32gts-4 FMIC 127 doglet FMIC, exhaust 143 a31 pod, exhst 132 ok, its not a 32, but it is RB20, so good for comparison S14 MattR EBC 128 Busky2k FMIC, SAFC, SITC, exhst, pod 183 S15 nightcrawler FMIC, exhst, unichip 188 no nick-white pod, exhst, 1bar boost 163 SpecS15 pod, FMIC, exhst, AVCR (1bar)185 There are a few mods not included. I only included mods that were listed if they were directly related to increasing power, so things like fuel pumps clutches, etc may not have made it to the list. If I have got anyones mods wrong, please let me know. Anyone that wants to put their dyno sheet up, please do, the more the merrier. Thanks to all that came, good to meet all those I havent met before, and nice to catch up with a few people I havent seen for a whild - it was a good day and nice to see so many nice cars in the one place. The lady taking the photos was doing an article for HPI mag so we will all be famous:p I got her guarantee that no number plates would appear anywhere, and if any were on the photos, she will photoshop them out before they get sent in. Lastly, here is a comparison of the dynos between Whatsisname, Grepin, Freebaggin, and me. I have two runs up, as I was wheel spinning in the first, so torque looked pretty shabby in the peak power run, second run shortly after showed better torque, but lower power (heat).

meh, what for? I could probably get a bit more if I wanted, then it might be time to start thinking about it, but for now its a nice safe tune, and it keeps me happy.

just dial in heaps of castor, all your turn in woes seem to disappear:) bit of camber and toe out help too though.

If you read the national inservice study on vehicle emissions, on the DOTARS website, you would see that most car on the road a gross polluters anyway. It seems that the majority of cars (80%) tested had engines that werent tuned, spark plugs that needed repacing, faulty cats etc. Also, if a cat was so important, why dont bikes have them? why do racing cars run without them? why can rally registered cars be driven without them? sorry, completely off thread topic /whoring:)

http://www.cusco.co.jp/english/e_cont.html link that has a basic explanation of the different diff types. Enrico, at the end of the day, a reshimmed viscous diff will still open wheel somewhat, 1.5 was provides full locking on accelleration, but less lock on decel than a 2 way. Interesting that the cusco is selectable between 1,1.5 and 2 way. According to cusco site, 1.5way is less prone to understeer than the 2 way? perhaps they had a typo, as my understanding is that a 1.5way will pull the back end in quicker than a 2 way, so less prone to oversteer? Sydneykid?

If you replace the engine with one more than 20% (from memory) larger than the largest fitted, you have to have an engineers report and do lane change stability and braking tests. The big thing is emissions, if you havent changed the charactheristics of the engine you fit, ie its still OEM in all regards, you only need to provide a 2 gas emissions test, which can be done at most dyno shops. If you change anything on the engine though, you need to prove it still complies with the ADR, which means a minimum of an !M240 test, which is what Regency said they need to prove compliance. There are no IM240 test facilities in SA, only the mitsi ADR37 test facility, which will cost $3.5K. Interesting to note: DOTARS 2million dollar study into vechicle emissions, recommends a steady state 60kph test be adopted for proving vehicles still conform to emissions stadards, which is cheap. Also Stephen Bell has an RG240 test, which is accurate to within 10% of the IM240 test, and costs $375, and in Tim Ireland's own words, 'if it passes the RG240, it should pass the IM240', went on to say that they wouldnt accept it though. Another thing that shows the extent of the beaurocracy, if you modify a pre 1972 car, no emissions test is required, as there are no applicable ADRs. Tim Ireland recommended that if I want to modify a car, to modify a pre 1972 car for this reason. Makes sense doesnt it, go and modify an old ford or holden, slap twin turbos on a 350 or 351 and its quite road legal - great service they are providing, making sure cars are safe on the roads eh? In effect, the enforcement and interpretation of current regulations is encouraging people to modify OLD cars, and there is no way they would be safer on the road than a later model car - as I said before, beaurocracy out of control.

Dont feel like going for a drive to Adeliade do you?

I do agree that ISO certification, or at least a visable form of quality assurance would go part of the way, but I dont believe it would go far enough. currently Regency hides behind its interpretation of ADRs and provides exemption on occasion, apparently at whim. Certain things though they flatly refuse to look at. The problem with this is that there is no scope within ADRs for modification to vehicles - they can be interpreted both for and against the enthusiast - most states lean on the side of the car owner, as long as the mod is safe. For example in WA it is ok to fit a blow off valve, in Qld you can fit an ECU or upgraded turbo, as long as you can pass a dyno emissions test Further, where mods fall completely outside of the original design of the vehicle, and if an appropriately skilled engineer certifies a car can be driven on the road safely, approval is granted for the car to be street registered. All fair, with an emphasis on public safety, not bloodymindedly enforcing rules out of the context that they were originally intended.

I currently have 321rwkw on the last dyno, 30 deg day, not shootout mode, 98ron fuel, 256/264 cams, trust plenum, tuned lenght manifold, HKS super dragger exhaust, hybrid 600x300x76 cooler, stock throttle body, z2 afm and power fc.

reply sent:)

HOY Please e-mail me [email protected] ps, nice boobies:p

24deg forcast for tomorrow :jump: :jump: :jump: :jump: :jump: :jump: :jump: :jump: :jump:

or the fuel pump runs out of flow before the injectors do.

Its not too hard to work out, you should see be able to find two dates, one being the manufacture, one being the delivery.

gunmetal33, why even look at a GT30 if you are after around 250rwkw??? get a smaller turbo with better bottom end and midrange, otherwise you wont get an optimum setup. If you do want to aim higher, remember you will have alot more lag, and probably need to have an adaptor made to fit the turbo, then you will need to upgrade the clutch to a twin. On the street it will be very different to drive, you will loose midrange and probably wont make strong boost until 4000+ rpm if everything else is going well. You may find it has even more lag without doing the exhaust manifold and cams/cam gear. You may well have to take a look at either doing a forged piston rebuild or decompressing the engine. It means alot more expense, and the car off the road for alot longer. Dont get me wrong, I love my setup (3037), but I never started out thinking of a 2530, or a smaller turbo that would give good strong bottom end and mid range. Basically they will be two totally different setups to drive on the road, very different. Decide what you want, when you have, start aiming towards that, otherwise, you just wont be happy with your car, it will cost you too much money and you will probably end up selling it and disappointed. my 0.02 Perhaps you should try and see if you can score a ride in a couple of different cars, to sus out the difference and what you would prefer?

Is there a nitto distributor in Aus? treadwear of 100 isnt very high, but dammit, I know they would be fun on the road

I cant see how you would be loosing power by using an ext gate. 2835 will spool quicker, 245rwkw at 1 bar should be close to what the turbo will acheive, as long as you have all the support systems sorted. Grepin's HKS 2835PRO is putting down around 275rwkw at 1.3bar from memory. good luck, should be killer

no probs. If you get in early on sat, I am sure shaun wouldnt mind looking after you. He's very reasonable.

ylwgtr2, do you think you could elaborate? I am running 550cc injectors and bosch 044 without upgraded fuel reg, are you saying I shouldnt have bothered?????

I agree, coppers that sit right next to speed change signs shit me to tears. Bottom line though, do the crime, do the time. Just be glad he didnt get you to pop the bonnet. The_Paladin, have you never sped? have you never taken your eyes off the road for a split second to change a CD, never followed too close - jeez mate, get over yourself Speed doesnt cause accidents, dickhead drivers cause accidents.

To make it a bit clearer, the lobe centre should be moved back (left), in your diagram it appears forward.

Dean, pretty sure mine is set 4 notches back for 4 degrees (from memory), its a HKS one. yours looks advanced to me. If its retarded, the internal part of the gear should be rotated to the left, so the cam is set back from the center factory setting. By moving it to the right, it means the centre is forward, or advanced.

Sorry, told a furfy about the build date on the jap plates, sorry. with the vin though I can confirm the build date. I have original books with mine, that also document build and delivery dates. for '95 ECR-33, numbers should be between the following: 051880-063435 100001-100019 101001-101987 If its different, if you tell me what it is, I can tell you the build year, as I have jpgs of the different models and corresponding engine numbers for different jap cars.

MTX Imports, its totally out of control there, they need to be put out to pasture, and the responsibility to comply modifications given to the profesionals instead of this bunch of retired bus conductors and frustrated mechanics who probably cant cut it in the real world. any chance your mate could drop me an e-mail detailing in his own words what happened? Cheers