Steve

easy, buy a vl turbo, but seriously, this is the performance forum, how is having a car sound like a different car performance related? perhaps you could get a tape recorder and record a vl, then just play it back when you feel the need.

a ) AFAIK b + d ) the q45 TB will bolt up, or you use stock TB you need an adaptor, which is about $100 new c ) some of the stock hoses need to be altered (shortened mainly), wires for the AAC and AC idle solenoids need to be lengthened, minor mods to fuel rail feed - there are instructions, with heaps of pictures, but they are in japanese - pretty easy to follow though. Also, water feed for the turbo needs to be modded (from memory). thats about all I can think of e ) GTiR is fine, or you can alter (lengthen) the stock cable.

excuse my ignorance, but what is a Beta version? cheers (any chance of an evaluation copy of the software;))

About 6 weeks. I seriously caned the car. I was told by my mech (who specialised in imports) it would be ok, and it was.

Crap, did you notice he said standard boost? I drove mine hard on hot summers days with out getting it tuned no probs - with standard boost. When it did go on the dyno, it was rich everywhere.

Pinging, or detonation, is when the air fuel mix spontaneously explodes before the flame front started by the spark plug. Several things can cause pinging, lean air/fuel mixtures, too much timing, excessive heat (eg, raised inlet temperatures from poor intercooling or hot days), poor fuel supply..... You can hear pinging, but in general if you want to avoid it, make sure you use good fuel, dont use excessive boost or boost hard on hot days, or if you have been sitting in traffic for a while (heat soak in intercooler), dont overload the car in too high a gear (eg, going up hill in too low a gear), get your plugs changed regularly, and change your fuel filter when it is scheduled, dont advance the intitial (base) timing. and lastly, get your car on a dyno, just to do a power run and check the air/fuel ratios. Remeber, the more mods you do, the more you need to be aware of the potential for detonation - just keep the tune conservative, ie dont try and wring every last pony out of your car, and drive sensibly and you 'shouldnt' have any problems

browny, yes they do.

grab them, worth over $500 each new. You probably wont find a huge increase in performance with the mods you have, but you will get a better midrange and top end. for $400 for both, you just cannot go wrong - bargain

More news, (one phone call later - big ups to Outlaw speed shop here in adeliade for all their help) Try High Performance World 1 Bourke st, Nth Parramatta 02 9630 2333 Outlaws said they should have them (they looked them up, as they are one of their suppliers), if not, ask if they know another speed shop in sydney another name they suggested is Sydney Speed Shop. If you have no luck with them, give me the dimensions and numbers of clamps you need, and I can go in and see outlaw speed shop here in adelaide and sort something this end.

Should be able to work something out. EDIT: you need to make sure the measurement is for the total diameter, including the silicone hose - they dont have a huge range of adjustment, about 5mm or so. I will check with the local speed shop, as I am pretty sure he said he ordered them from east, see what I can find out for you.

this is the best image I have at the moment, I could probably photoshop another when I get home (at work at the moment:)) - let me know? The clamps on the BOV return are the heavy ones, I also run them from the turbo to the intercooler - the ones on the TB are the other type, with washers on the bolt. They work well too, but are thinner and dont have rolled edges. The TB ones are available through autobarn (here in SA anyways) - they were fitted when I upgraded my IC to TB pipe, and I didnt have any of the heavier clamps on hand. Both seem to be handling 22+psi no probs.

Merli, I have the ones you are talking about, and have no probs with the hose bunching. the only thing is you definately have to buy the right size, and the tolerance is a bit low - not much room to move. I have seen some similar to the ones browny posted up, but they have heaps of washers between the nut on the bolt and the clamp - I have these too. they are better for tolerance, in that you can fit them to a wider range of hose sizes, and 'aparently' you can actually torque them down until you distort the pipe. I do prefer the wider clamps myself, they also have a rolled edge so you know they wont cut into the silicone hoses. cost here in SA from around $5-8 each ($8 being for the ones on my 3" pipework), that was from a speed shop, from an exhaust shop they were about $5 dearer each.

something did happen, the adjustments are all over the place - take it back toe is the front of the wheel, as in whether or not it is pointing straight ahead (0) out means the tyres are pointing out from the vehicle, ie, they are not pointing in a straight line. On the front this can help turn in, on the back - no good. get rid of the toe on the back - check the hicas connector under the car as this may have been bumped, and see if they can get even camber on the front.

Wish I could have been there:( The s14 with s15 front (if it was red with black roof) was James Vahoumis' car from D1 Garage in SA. He also brought Bai (Signal's D1 driver) over for the event - they did a photo shoot over here for speed, and I got thrown around in the passenger seat of the 180 (same colours as the S14) by him (bai) was about the most fun you can have with your clothes on - its bizaare, he was so bloody relaxed and casual when driving. Hopefully I will be able to make the next one - big ups for all that organised it all.

you still need to change oil and water line fittings, plus you need the adaptor for the compressor outlet. New in kit form, around 2.5 to 3K. If you only want to spend 1.5-2K, and want straight bolt on, get a highflow.

D1 Garage their phone is 08 8294 1355

Clint, can you pm me your phone number again, I have lost it:) and a mate is very interested in getting a pair of your castor rods. Cheers

are you sure its a 044? as mine is doing fine with 320rwkw and 550cc injectors? good price for a 044 if anyone is looking for one, but these pumps are 'supposed' to flow 6-700hp.

Jeez, for that sort of money, just hire out Malalla for a day and see how hard you can push the car until you get unstuck - same thing and more fun:p probably get a lot more time on the track that way too.

looking very nice there Joel - glad to see it has pride of place in the house too:)

thats one way to look at it, another is japanese springs made for japanese cars. Would someone fit jap springs to a holden???? Spring rate will be the deciding factor, no matter who makes them. I know guys that run 12kg springs front and 10 rear - they drive their cars hard and like the go kart feel in a car:) Personally I find that japanese quality, generally, is as good as it gets (but to each their own). If you can get the jap springs at the right price and at the right rate - they are a good thing. They have after all been making springs for skylines alot longer than any aussie company. If you are not interested in the Apex springs, or this guy has other sets at a good price, could you pm me details please (my springs need upgrading:p) Cheers Steve

Hicas light, check that it is plugged in underneath the car - if it isnt, this may explain why its skipping. You have toe out on the rear???? a little toe out on the front helps turn in, toe on the rear should be neutral or in (slightly). also you have twice as much camber on one side of the front than the other??? perhaps your bushes are rooted? seems a bit strange, but I cant see how it would make your back end skittish, just effect your turn in from left to right. Have you thought of fitting whiteline bushes or camber arms? Lastly, get some castor on there, as much as you can - it will make life alot better. I have some arms with castor bushes in them, give 7 1/2deg (good price for you:)) but if you want the best result, get some adjustable castor rods - they are the shit. Makes turn in soooooo much better.

I was just talking to Signal's D1 driver (through and interpreter), who is also a mechanic with them, and asked this exact same question - which does he consider best and why, out of N1s and 2530. His reply was the N1's are 'much better' for a street/daily driven car, as he said they have better bottom end and mid range, but for power the 2530s are the go.

unfortuneately - its a matter of legality, not that you can do anything but very basic mods here in SA without it being illegal. I hope to be going over to NSW to get it legal, one day.

INASNT, yes you do get an oily residue, you need to have baffles in the can, or some medium to remove the oil particulates from the vapour. Works alot better that way.