Steve

I had a stock 9" diff in the falcon, and with BFG Radial TAs, I couldnt get around a corner in the wet without getting sideways, except by idling out - made it pretty challenging braking into traffic. there is no way you would even get me into the passengers seat in that thing in the wet - I dont have a death wish:)

Whatsisname runs microtech with good results, Shaun at Boostworx looks after his car.

7 equates to approx 13.5psi.

Relative Humidity?

BTW, nice dyno, nice fat power curve. Must be fun to drive.

To give you a different perspective again, I was told by a D1 Driver that they tune 11:1, and use timing to get good repsonse. This is how they tune their (Signal and Tinker drift club at least - that's who he drove for) cars.

Fair comment, I have only driven one car with a high stall converter (from what you are saying obviously not set up well), and it didnt do much until you put your foot in, then it did alot:) made traffic a bit tricky, there is on way I would have attempted to drive it in the wet - had enough trouble with my GT falcon, and that only had a 1500rpm converter (not quite what you would call high stall though).

would you take $150 CODed to adelaide?

Its pretty funny, this whole street trim debate - street trim can include Hoosiers or Nittos - and there isnt alot of difference between the numbers, that I have seen, to cars of a similar state with slicks. (eg, Ben Ellis's R34) But are hoosier's or nittos tyres that you would drive around on all day? Still street trim. A lot of the old school drag heads, run cars that are designed to go really fast in a straight line, and not much else. They may be in street trim, but they corner like a dog, and with high stall converters and a high power band, leave alot to be desired in the street driving. Matt, throw the slicks on there FFS, its a drag strip - start fighting fire with fire, and lets see what a car that can be driven in peak hour traffic, or down to the local shopping centre can do if it wants:) Would you put a drag car on a circuit with drag slicks? why drag as a street car on a strip with street (or circuit) tyres? You know what can be achieved in street trim, why not up the ante and see what the potential is? What ever you choose to do, good luck [subliminal message] go the slicks, you know you want to, dont be weak [/subliminal message]

255, I have always wondered that myself.... might have to ask the signal guys when they come over to do a bit of tuning in May:)

15 degrees

2GU UP 2, how long have you been conversant with the SA Road traffic act? who told you this? It would be interesting who at regency think they can overrule Tim Ireland, seeing as he is the head of the place and answers directly to the transport minister.

its a bit difficult if they dont know what they are doing - to check the timing, you can either do it off no1 coilpack (bit of messing around) or off the induction loop on the coilpack - might be worth a drive up to sydney, either that or find a timing light and do it yourself, now that you have seen it done. Just dial in - 4 deg, check your timing, and see how she goes:)

GTR-Ben, the airflow across the bottom is straight forward, on the vertical axis is boost pressure - this is absolute pressure, so you need to subtract 1 from the value to get boost that is seen in the manfold - absolute pressure is the total pressure, including the atmospheric pressure which is 1 bar, thus it needs to be subtracted. So, drawing a line up from any given airflow point, you can read boost required off the vertical axis, and where in the efficiency map the compressor is working. The line to the left of the map is the surge line.

The second numbers you have highlighted is the Duty Cycle. This is basically the amount of time the solenoid stays open (bleeds) in realation to the amount of time it is shut and allows boost pressure to the wastegate. It is expressed as a percentage. The minimum you can set (from memory) is 10%, which would be sending boost pressure to the solenoid 90% of the time, bleeding 10% of the time - it would be used for low boost pressure. The maximum you can set is 90%, which has boost pressure going to the wastegate 10% of the time and bleeding 90% of the time. If the boost is spiking (I would put money on it in your case, those duty cycles seem very, very high for those boost pressures), you need to adjust the duty cycle down. If the boost is lazy, or it isnt reaching full boost, you will need to adjust the duty cycle up. If you change your boost pressure up, adjust the duty cycle up at the same time, if down, adjust the duty cycle down. The power fc has a self learning mode, which will optimise the solenoid actuation for optimum boost control BUT, if you are miles out of the ball park, it wont have a chance. For example, if I adjust my boost pressure up by .2KG, I usually adjust my duty cycle up 4%. then just monitor on the peak hold, if it is spiking (more than .1kg) I will adjust the duty cycle down by 2%. If it isnt getting to boost, I adjust duty cycle up by 2% at a time, until it is just spinking a little (less than .1kg) - from there I let the power fc learn for itself. If you ever need a copy of the english manual (although its for an RX-7) one is available on line at he apexi usa website, look under electronics, then documentation or someting like that.

At a guess, and it is a guess, so dont flame me if I am wrong, it sounds like the base timing wasnt reset properly. It doesnt seem to be a very uncommon problem. I had the same thing, back to back dynos - but the operator 'guestimated' the CAS position, based on the initial timing setting marks on the CAS. Its pretty common when removing the CAS to put a small mark on it and the cam gear cover so the mech knows approximately where to relocate it before attempting to start the engine. Unfortuneately when I had it done the first time the operator insisted that the way he was doing it was correct, and that the best setting for an exhaust cam gear was only around 1-2deg retard. He was able to prove his point with his method. I then took the car to another place, he restet the timing with a timing light, and I picked up 15rwkw through the mid range going from -2 to -4 deg. Is the cam gear still set to 2 deg retard?

Depends on where on the pillar its mounted. Tim Ireland told me if its on the pillar, as long as its no where the head can reach its ok. Went on to say they are otherwise illegal due to an increased risk of head injury in an accident (Of course it will Tim, just before your head goes through the A pillar)

Zagan, why not wait till all the results are in, if you read back, you are saying nothing new. Jetpilot was willing to put his money where his mouth is, and fork out product for people to try for free, people he doesnt know and have no reason to back up his claims. Lets give the guy a go, cos if it works, well who gives a rats arse what sort of scheme it is.

nah, just trying to redirect Matt away from this whole drag thing, and it worked:p The signal guys will be here for a few days at least. James has a lot of spares there, so most things shouldnt be a problem - its amazing what you can source on short notice if you have to. Signal can make things happen pretty quick too, James got some tyre sent out from Japan within days for the Melb drift comp because signal made a phone call for him. they have alot of sway with other companies in Japan, PLUS they have a huge number of bits on the shelves over there - so when the manager of Signal calls and tells them to make something happen, it will. (Hiko san, the manager of Signal will be out too, he is the owners brother, so if he cant make things happen, they were never meant to be) Fuel, well thats easy, just drain and refill. If everything goes pie eyed, well thats just the nature of the beast - it does happen. But this sort of opportunity wont come knocking too often. If I worry too much about what might go wrong, then I would probably never get anything done. Spose all I can do is prep the car the best I can, plugs, fuel filter, make sure there isnt anything else obviously wrong and leave the rest to the gods:)

Cheeky, thats just too easy:p try this one: carpo canis buga and another: fartor

OK Matt, spill em on the donkeys

sharpei diem

nah, its all good, just farking with you - what a dull place the forums would be if you couldnt do a little whoring from time to time:)

in line thermostat is an open valve that links 4 connections (two on each side with a thermostat that blocks off the middle when hot) - and is open when cold. this allows the system to remain pressurised at all times, so no chance of oil surge. Its a bit hard to describe without pictures and I dont have any. As the oil gets hot the thermostat shuts which forces the oil to travel via the cooler.

Beauty a cosmo shoot! but seriously, whatsisname, I am a bit dissapointed that you, being a moderator, would whore a thread. what are the forums coming to:(