Steve

Dean, I havent seen the article, if you could find a copy that would be awesome. Tim, as Dean said - if you can think of another way to get the much needed reform in place, please let me (us) know Cheers

made by Toyo. Grippy, wear well, but not so grippy that you cant get some power oversteer happening if you want. They are also relatively cheap compared to alot of other tyres around. 235/45/17 GUWNs are around the 200-220mark I think.

Just got some RE540s (second hand) fitted to the rears - huge difference, the stiff sidewall, which is kevlar reinforced really tightens up the handling, and they stick - probably a bit too much for my liking, as I dont mind a bit of throttle steer. Next I think I will be trying to source something similar to 540s for the front and giving trampios a bash for the rears.

HKS 280-degree cam-gears, he really should of spent the extra and got 360 degree ones does anyone know what a triple-core intercooler is, shame its only 500mm long, but anyways - he reckons he built it himself so he must know what he is talking about.

Have you posted on the SDU site? there is a guy on there, think his nick is Tydago, who appears to have used it extensively.

Hmm, dont think I have put my name down yet either???? Sorta new anyways. Nearly finnished modding - yay:D and I too, am an old fart.

I think you may find that a spring that is perfect for the rear, may be very lacking on the front of a car, as the weight distribution of a car is not even. Have you tried playing with the damper rates?

how much for the guage holders?

Happy B/day Pawley

the handbrake spring is held in place by two tabs, usually (well the ones I have seen) when the spin turn knob is put on, the tabs are bent out and the spring just floats. The rubber cover should come off, but it would be a tight fit for obvious reasons. You could try some CRC or similar, but at the end of the day, its just a case of twist and pull - hard. If you are having trouble removing it, and are pretty sure they just removed the spring, rather than bent the tabs - you could try unscrewing the handbrake knob, and just inserting a new spring from your spare handbrake. If you have the whole spin turn knob setup and want to get rid of it, I will buy it off you if you like:)

SK, where can you buy those particular hicas lock bars? I had a look on the website, but couldnt find them? Also, how much do they cost? cheers

I dont think it will make alot of difference. I started from hardest, as I knew softest was way too soft, and I had 30 odd adjustment points, so didnt want to spend the whole day/weekend doing it, so I thought it would be quicker to start at the top and work down.

What the! fined for using AVGAS, god they just keep making life difficult - maybe I will have to get rally rego for the gemi:D either that or just buy an ultralight - then I wouldnt even have to pay tax on the avgas. Hmm, thats got me thinking, where are they going to get the revenue to replace the lead tax - fark, its gotta come from somewhere - they dont mind taking, but rarely like to give it back. Standby peoples.

To check any oil leak, clean it, brush on kero, then run the car for a while and look for oil leaks. For cleaning electrical contacts use either non residual brake cleaner, or an electrical contact cleaner - degreaser may leave a residue, so best not to use only that. My favourite is brake cleaner. And fit that catch can as soon as you can:) By the time it gets to the BOV, the intercooler is doing stuff all, just warming the air;) plus all the oil and crap that is going into the cylinders is not doing you any favours. You can also block off the pcv at the same time, so all crank case gasses have to go through the catch can. Make sure the catch can is baffled or similar, otherwise they dont tend to do much.

bug guts paint fleck :wassup: killer.

Dean, I adjusted mine by taking the backs as hard as they would go, then going for a sprited drive, reducing a little, and repeat. Once the rear seemed to be around the best spot (where oversteer seemed to settle to an acceptable level), I then adjusted the fronts - same process as above. I have since tried adjusting the rears again, but ended up in about the same spot. You can feel when you have gone too far, the damping adjustment (on mine anyways) does make an appreciable difference. Pretty easy to do, I am not sure exactly how its done on a circuit car, but I would imagine apart from corner weights, the rest would be a similar process - to suit the car to the driver. Perhaps SK can add???? SK?

Hmm, well it should be ok, 380rwhp is around 460ish bhp. I am thinking you will have a bit of lag, like I said, without a compressor map, its difficult to say. Where were you hoping for 1bar of boost to be made - with that turbo I would be thinking it may be over 4000rpm. For the street, it may be a bit on the big side, depends on how you like to drive really - but only way to know for sure is bolt it on:) From there, you may need to look at doing a few other things, like upgrade exhaust, exh cam gear, exhaust cam, etc to get the response you need. I have also found a front facing plenum increases off boost response too. When I first fitted my 3037 with a 0.87 exh housing it didnt make 1 bar until over 5000rpm - I then went through and changed a few things until now it makes 1.2bar at 4000rpm. The thing with bigger turbos is that the rest of the systems can need some massaging to get the best out of them. Without a compressor map, it is a bit of hit and miss unfortuneatley, but unless you buy a package from somewhere like HKS, thats pretty much the always the case. Bottom line, slap it on, see how it goes, then upgrade any other bits that you suspect may be holding things back, if necessary. And make sure you post up the results. I really dont know about the trans, sorry - never played with the auto in a skyline.

Starts ok, idles ok - hmm weird. If you heard a whoosh sound from the left hand side, I would be checking all the pipework from the turbo to the manifold - if a pipe has popped off, it will also cause overfueling - still, its strange that it idles ok. Low vacuum too, hmm, may be cooler pipework, may also be turbo (oil seals/turbine side). What doesnt seem to make sense here though is that oil burning in the exhaust will cause white/blue smoke - black smoke is more fuel. Also, massive blow by??? if uyour not running big boost and big power next place is often ringlands/pistons/bore. As ringlands go, the exhaust gasses pressurise the crank case so much that the dipstick will often pop out, and cause oil to be sprayed around under the bonnet. How do you know it is blow by, and not something else, like a turbo oil feed? If you have degresed, try spraying kero around the engine bay, then idle the engine for a while (keep an eye on the oil level and oil pressure at ALL times while the engine is running - if it drops, shut down the engine.) Have a look around the engine bay - the kero will mean the oil tends to drip off, leaving a nice line where the oil is coming from. Some things to try anyways - good luck I hope it is something like an cooler pipe. (the whole blow by thing has me a bit concerned though that its something to be wary of) Oh, and if you have stuffed the engine (hope not), usually it is cheaper to just buy a new second hand one complete then rebuild the original.

oh no, the poor gemi:( how much is avgas these days????

yeah well, my wife owns a VC commodore, with Kmac strut tops, lowered and a 3.3L engine AND a SAAS steering wheel with calais interior and I can drive that ANY TIME I WANT - plus there is the gemi - need I say more:p

JXL, thanks, but that is bit dear for me, new springs are cheaper.

This thread is funny...

what sort of times did you manage Matt?

The type you describe are the full replacement valves - I have seen these advertised on a US website but cant remeber exactly where sorry. I have a bleed kit, which consists of a clear plastic tube with a one way valve on one end, attaches to the standard bleed valve. Just crack the bleed valve, and place tube over the valve and the other end (the one way valve) in a container - then pump the brake pedal. Works just fine, cost around $10-15 from memory. Bought it from autobarn.

Pretty sure D1 Garage (www.d1garage.com) have one.