Steve

ah, I see, so a car doing 8s is running at the back of the pack... my bad, I thought that was quick.

agreed Tony

i have no idea, perhaps one of the many others running trust plenums could enlighten you? (B-Man, what did you do with the cooling system bleed valve?) what is a cooling system bleed valve? how often do you need to bleed air out of the cooling system? how does it get trapped in the engine? why doesnt coolant displace it? does the engine get vapour locks? how long does it take before this becomes a problem? how do GTRs get around this? do they have a cooling system bleed valve? why doesnt the cooling system get bled when the car is serviced if it is an issue? cheers

From http://www.mazsport.com/rresults.html two birds, one stone.

JasonO, good luck, I am sure you will be happy with it. Steg33, that is actually the radiator overflow. With the trust plenum you have to remove the stock washer bottle, so I converted the stock radiator overflow to a washer bottle, then fitted the overflow can. Sligthly different to a catch can, as it feeds from the bottom and has a vent at the top.

how did you adjust the blitz BOV? when I fitted a bov, with only a pod and exhaust, I only had nice things happen.

hehehehehehehehe....

good idea, make sure you do the fuel pump too, and save your money on the plenum as it doesnt really need one - unless you want it for asthetic reasons.

hmm, what about the differences between air density from cold to hot days? without temp correction I think you may be asking for trouble when the air temperatures fall.

INASNT, that is the BOV return.

JasonO, apart from the manifold itself, I also had to have the aircon oulet modded so it didnt interfere with the manifold, and the power steer res moved so the turbo fitted Pretty sure you dont have these probs with the HKS kit manifold. Mine is tuned lenght, but I think it would be better to go 3-2-1 as the japs do, that is, if you were making your own.

pics of the engine, at last:

I think C-Red has/had P1s for alot cheaper than that.

thats the thing IF, if means R&D, you may get it right the first time, you may not. Companies spend huge sums of money to get a good cooler design/end tank setup - to think you can just slap a cut down truck core on a car with a couple of end tanks, and you will get it to work well - jeez, if only it was that easy, intercoolers would probably cost 3-400 each. intercoolers can be good and can be bad - make sure you buy a good one the first time and you will definately reap the rewards. If someone wants to sell you a cooler, ask what testing they have done. If they cant give you repeatable results, and actual figures, they havent done their R&D. I dont think try09s is a good example, his car is just slightly moddified, and its requirements dont represent those of the average street car, even if it is mildly tuned (under 350rwkw). As soon as you start talking about drag cars, the whole point of the discussion is being somewhat missed - drag cars also do well without intercoolers. another 0.02:)

Saw a really purdy green skyline today, S2 R33, metalic emerald green.

Hmm, seems wierd. I would be looking at your exhaust side, as already mentioned. If you are winding more boost in, with little return, it sounds like back pressure to me, or the turbo is well out of its efficiency range. If its a 700hp turbo, I think I would be correct in assuming the turbine AR is reasonably large, so I doubt any restriction is there. try dropping the exhaust and take the car for a quick squirt (or better still put it on the dyno) - takes only a few minutes to drop. You do run a 'racing' cat dont you? I had a nismo exhaust, that started choking the car at around 285rwkw, changed to a super dragger and made boost alot earlier, and got alot more top end - now making well over 300rwkw (on a 480hp turbo:) sorry just had to throw that one in:p) take a good close look at your bov too - I have seen those turbosmart supersonics leak like a sieve, try putting you hand over the oulet whilst at idle. If it is leaking, you may still be making boost, but the car will be alot more lethargic off boost, and ramp slower onto boost instead of hitting hard.

It is interesting, did you check the date? Feb 2003, with updates 'soon'. says nothing more, then raves on about a totally unrelated case. The problem is anybody can set up these sites, and instantly they have cred - I am the ultimate sceptic, and anybody who says 'person xxx indited' then goes on to say innocent til proven guilty and rave on for a page about other cases? WTF - its practically liable, certainly misleading IMHO. Jetpilot1986 - I am a sceptic, but would be willing to give it a go. I am putting down over 300rwkw on stock bottom end, I have a mech diff and also a quickshifter which alot of people say increases wear. the mech diff is somewhat of a worry - would this reduce the grip? as you say it will reduce friction, I am pretty sure a mech diff needs friction, or it wont lock...? The box, well, yes it is a bit notchy since the quickshifter went in - any improvement here would be well worth while. I would love to give this a bash (except perhaps the diff, I would need to know for sure it wouldnt root it), as I am quite sure my car doesnt get an easy life - I have a relatively large turbo, if I can pick up any off boost power/response I would be exstatic, although it is already very reasonable for the turbo - any increase in economy would be great (currently best I get is 15L per 100km, before turbo and injector upgrade it was 10L/100km average) - plus with the power I am making, I am quite sure my bearing are copping a hiding. The car is a daily driver, so the kays clock up pretty quick too. More than happy to write up a report at the end.

310 per tyre is pretty cheap. wish I could get the tyres I want for 310 each.

I have seen a 2530 on RB20 make 230 at 1.2bar with 8200rpm redline. It was James (D1 Garage) cefiro, and it went bloody hard - you are looking at an easy 12 second car with that sort of power. Jut be aware that your gearbox may not like it too much, so make sure your tyres arent too sticky:) With a 2530 you will get a big fat midrange and will come on boost early (ish). 2835 on grepins car is making 274 at 1.3bar, but will have alot more lag than a 2530. It depends on your driving style. If you dont mind a bit of lag, go a 2835 (or even a T518Z) - if you want something with more down low, go a 2530. anther one to consider is the 2535, but once again it will have more lag than a 2530. Having 8.5:1 CR, you can run 1.5+bar all day with a good tune and be very safe - so no probs there. D1 Garage sell a new HKS2530 with ALL the bits (oil line fittings, water line fitting, snout for outlet, actuator (I think), etc, etc) for $3K. Second hand you may be able to save around 1K or a bit more, but for peace of mind, and so you dont end up having to buy more and more bits to make it fit - the new kit is pretty good value for money IMHO. Give them a call, or better still drop in and see them - James lived in Japan for 4 years, has heaps of connections over there, has seen alot of different setups, and I am sure he will be able to help find the right turbo for what you are after. He has saved me a fortune, as I originally met him looking for an RB25DE head for a 3L conversion. After chatting to me, he talked me out of it, as he assured me I didnt need to go that path for what I was after. Tell 'em I sent you too, more discounts for me later:p.

photos of the surge tank?

skidmark, dont know about the RB20 being stronger, it does have a lower CR, which helps it handle more boost. I am making over 300rwkw with an rb25, stock internals - its strong enough for me:) If you have the dollars (around 4.5K) just buy a RIPS 3L engine, with sump already adapted. His GTS4 is running 10s with this engine, certainly scare a few GTRs:p

Try D1 Garage, I am pretty sure they have a couple.

you can get more top end power out of the rb20 than you can get out of the rb25 ..... Did you ask them where/when/how? It would be interesting. That extra 0.5L will give you a bit more torque off boost and bring a turbo onto boost a bit quicker. From what I have seen RB20 and 25 can make similar power (peak) with similar mods, just the RB20 needs a few more revs to do it. But you can never deny that cubes do make a difference, that would be like saying turbos dont make a difference or revs dont make a difference, of course they make a difference - everything else being equal. The other side is, if you blow up an RB20, they are a very cheap engine to replace, and with a 2530 hanging off them.....killer. Alot less hassels, with registration (just inform regency of the engine swap), changeover cost, resale. You can buy a 2530 new with all the bits to fit it (bolts, adaptors, oil and water lines, etc), for 3K.

yes they do clunk at low speed, just the clutch plates slipping as you arent going fast enough for them to lock. Nothing to worry about - gets some interesting looks in shopping centres.