Steve

you wont need a fuel pressure reg if you are doing injectors. probably better off with a 2535 or 2835 than 2530, as it will make the power a bit easier. $1550 is a bargain for a second hand HKS turbo, even if it needs rebuilding it will be a better price than new. you can also sell your stock turbo. It will be a good idea to upgrade the pipe from AFM to turbo to, so anther $150-200 there, then similar may be needed for turbo to cooler. Oil and water lines, $300 or thereabouts. Injectors around 1K. AFM around $350 with a plug. be ready to pay around 5-600 for a full remap with the injectors too. good luck

no window tint place will cover you for scratches that I know of - usually the guarantee is for cracks, bubbles, peeling and fading. The tint is softer than the glass, so will scratch alot easier. My windows are tinted and dont have any scratches from being raised and lowered, so perhaps you do have a problem - hard way to learn, shame they didnt check it out before they fit the tint:( I do have one scratch though, but that was operator error:)

You sure its the cat? not getting scared with the power?

The dates the jap use (for years) are based on eras. The last one, under emperor Hirohito was Showa, the current one is Heisei under emperor Akihito. The era began in 1989, so that year is Heisei 1, 1995 is therefore year 7 You can find the build date on your jap compliance plate, if you have the original books, you will be able to find the delivery date too.

I asked them why it was so much, they said because it took alot longer than they thought - that it took 6 hours on the dyno to tune it as the power fc hand controller is so slow. They said that when they quoted $300 it was a rough guide - what can you do? I wanted to pick up my car, so I had to pay them. If someone thinks its fair to charge nearly $600 for a job quoted at $300, there is no point trying to reason with them. I had heard good things about them. That was why I decided to give them a go. I think most workshops have certain strengths. The safest way to go is to make sure the shop has plenty of experience with the type of car you are tuning, and that others who have taken their car there are happy.

doglet, its not just about big power, its about seeing where your car is at, and at the same time, it will provide some valuable info for people looking at doing different mods cos we can all compare on the same dyno on the same day with different levels of mods. Matt, yeah what T-man said:)

Dean, at the end of the day, your plugs should not have been changes without your say so. they did this to me, and it really pissed me off too, as there was no mention before hand that they may need to do it. I had back to back dynos with coppers (after they put in platinums, at a different dyno place) and the coppers performed better, so IMHO, its just a ploy to get a few dollars out of you. if it is standard practice, they should tell you before hand, if they want to throw $100 plugs in, how hard is it to telephone and let you know up front?

fuel pressure reg upgrade (adjustable or rising rate) is only needed if you have to stretch the injectors. Fuel pump upgrade will give you a bit more head room with the stock injectors, as the stock fuel pump seems to have trouble keeping up with the flow potential of the stock injectors.

Sly, try a fuel pressure reg. If you need a retune with increased fuel pressure it will be cheaper than a full remap. Also, take a look at boostworx, does good work at a reasonable price. I paid $300 for a remap off boost (light throttle and cruise at different speeds), remap at WOT, find a boost leak, replace wastegate spring and dial in the exhaust cam. Car is running alot better, and also shaun is a qualified mechanic. I wish I had found him along time ago, would have saved me a fortune.

Have a look on the for sale section, saw one recently for around $250

SR910, if you have had good experiences, dont feel too shy to post up the name. I'll get the ball rolling. Boostworx has done the righty by me. Good work at a very reasonable rate.

Can recommend Boostworx for a dyno. Oil change and filter change do yourself. If you live NE, I can lend you any tools you may need no probs.

Unbefarkingleivable - mate you got majorly ripped off. I am gobsmacked. Did they give you a quote before hand? I would love to know why it takes 6 hours to retune a car with a boost controller. I had a full dyno tune including plug change, then a retune with a bigger exhaust, redid all the off boost mapping, dialed in the cam (again), swapped wastegate springs and it cost less than that, and power fc hand controller isnt the most user friendly device in the world for tuning. 600 for a full map from scratch is one thing, but a tidy up with more boost?????????

I'm not actually selling them. I know they are rare, so I thought I would post up for anyone who might be in the market is all.

There are a few '95 models getting around making alot more power than other year cars. gobiz, you might be lucky but dont hold your breath. Seeing as you have an auto, you are somewhat further behind the 8 ball. Torque converters do loose more power than a clutch.

very hard to make upgrades without cash, sorry to hear things arent going so well.

sorry, first post has been updated Boostworx, Boothby St, Panorama

paragon, good luck with the project. I dont have anything to offer with info, but I would like to see the finished product. IMHO, if you want to build a 0-300 car, look at the land of the rising sun. They have been doing it for a while, so you can learn a few lessons from what they have already found out the hard way. once again, good luck.

Dean, get a 2 way diff, or a 1.5way - best value mod you can do for predicability and getting power down (from what I have done so far). No back end breaking loose unpredictably, much quicker off the line, and when oversteering, it is alot tighter, ie, you wont end up in the next lane;) I have found most of the mods I have done so far have made subtle differences (of course coilovers make a major difference, and diff), but they have all helped. I have pineapples, hardmount bushes, front and rear strut braces, adj whiteline swaybars (set to max), now caster rods in the front, which are alot better than just bushes (improvement over 7.5deg that I had with just bushes, now I have more, plus rose jointes which are tighter:)), camber arms on the way, and a hicas lock bar on the way. If I had to rate the mods and their effect, 1/ coilovers (obvious improvements) 2/ diff (huge improvement in power deliver and predictability) 3/ swaybars (car alot flatter and tighter in corners than the stock ones) 4/ caster rods (much, much better turn in) 5/ Fr strut brace (similar to sway bars) 6/Pineapples/hardmounts (car feels firmer on the road, more settled when under power) 7/ Rr strut brace (tightened up handling, but more subtle than front strut brace or swaybars) I cannot wait to get rid of the hicas, as it has a bloody mind of its own, and we dont see eye to eye all the time:p I would recommend you look at upgrading your diff, I can guarantee you will not be disappointed. As your springs are a bit heavier than mine, I dont think swaybars will make the difference that they did in my case, next I would recommend you look at castor rods, then cradle bushes. As SK suggested, camber bushes will tighten up the feel of the road on the car, or if you have the dollars, get adjustable arms. And lastly, think about getting rid of the hicas - it is not your friend. Clint32 can supply castor rods (you wont find cheaper new) and whiteline kits at very reasonable prices (best labour rates in town;)) and hicas lock kits. As for diff, Z imports (wingfield) had a 2 way and were only after around $500 from memory, but a good 2 way you can expect to pay up to around 800-1k second hand. BUT very well worth the money. If you are lucky they may still have it. If my wife would let me, I would drop in a half cage in a heart beat too. Much stiffer body. JMS had a really nice DOLUCK 1/2 cage (out of their 33?) in stock for only $450. If you do this, you loose your back seats, but hey, its a sports car (if only my wife understood:() SK, thanks for the info. You wouldnt be able to tell me what those spring rates are in kg? or how to convert? I was also wondering what toe do you run? I was thinking around 1deg in the front? would this be too much/little for a 33?

skidmark, just divide by 84 for the approx price in oxford scholars. basically its a full computer that just plugs in in place of the stock one, so you can modify all your ignition and fuel maps - plus you can monitor alot of vitals. MadGT4, I am sure Joel wouldnt mind springing for a couple:p

I know they are pretty rare, so anyone needing one, greenline have a couple available, new for 96,000yen delivered http://www.greenline.jp/specials.php

Slippery, as Cheeky said, EDIT THAT POST;)

Cheeky, does this mean they wont take the car off him? It was my understanding that if a financial encumberance was on a vehicle, the finance company can reposess it at any time, then the new owner take up the matter - but as you suggested, may result in a repayment of only $5 or $20 per week for the next god knows how long - hardly reimbursement when you loose the car.

AFC is ok, but it only gives you fuel, not ignition. I think this will make your goal of 200rwkw a bit more difficult. have a look at www.greenline.jp they can sell for alot cheaper than in Malaysia, so as long as customs and tax isnt too high, you can probably save alot. For RM3300, I dont see why you dont see if you can pick up a power fc, plugs straight in. for boost control, perhaps get a decent bleed vavle for the time being, RM150 to 300. It isnt safe to be running much more than around 0.85bar with the stock turbo, so a bleed should do the job fine. IMO, get fuel and ignition done. An even cheaper option, have a look in the for sale section, as you see second hand AFC and ITC come up. Next best thing to a full ECU as you can control fuel and ignition. Expect to pay around $600+ (RM 1800) for both of these second hand.

R31Nismoid, what voltage was your afm reading at those figures? Also, how much would it cost you to redyno a car with a new AFM if you discover the stock one isnt up to the job. I had 189 at 0.85bar, my stock AFM was reading 5.115V at approx 4500rpm. Once you change the AFM the car needs to be redynoed, cost in my case was $300, but the redyno showed a definate improvement through the rev range of up to 15kw - subjective as it could have been the tune that was different, the end result was 203rwkw at the same boost pressure. If I had upgraded the AFM first, I would have saved $300. I am not saying you are wrong, it would be good to know what voltages you were reading though, as without knowing this, it is impossible to say how close it was to reaching full voltage, unless, you run the car at the boost pressure it is tuned, then on the same dyno, run at a lower boost pressure and monitor AF ratios - this would certianly show any problems.