Steve

Why no sucess? not broken is it? this guy has a GTIR, so similar engine setup (for inj and ign harness)

9krpm, I have a friend who is looking for an e-manage.

Yep, will take phillips or flat tip

Did you reset the base timing between runs? it is pretty importand, as without doing this, there will be very little results. If you think about it, 4 degrees is a fair bit, and if it isnt doing something major, perhaps its not being set up properly. I had a 'reputable' tuner try and dial in my exh cam, but didnt go near a timing light, just used the first (pre dial in) timing mark - and surprise, the results were almost non existant.

Where do you pick up second hand 2 ways for $300, I'll take 2 please. But seriously, I would be happy if I could get a good one for $600, you got a bargain. (wanna sell it, give you $500!)

this is bad, your crank case is pressurising. You either have massive blowby (gasses that go around the pistons when the a/f mixture is ignited) or your crankcase gasses are not being allowed to vent. You need to check if your PCV, or catch can (if fitted) is operating correctly. If it is, its a good indication that your engine is quite tired. One check to do is to remove the oil filler cap. You should be able to feel gasses coming out, gently, at idle. If the gasses are coming out fast (like being blown out by a fan), your rings are tired. If no gasses are coming out, you could have a blockage in the line that links the bottom end to the head (not sure where this is on an RB engine, anyone?). If you are not sure, just give the engine a little rev - this should increase the amount the engine 'breathes' through the rocker cover. Even if the engine breathes a fair bit, you may still get a decent life out of it, no guarantees though. Also, you need to check thoroughly that the PCV ventilation can actually go somewhere, and is not blocked off as discussed above. Hope that makes sense.

under normal vacuum, the pcv will suck air and fumes from the rocker cover into the plenum, under boost is should seal shut causing the fumes to have to exit via the catch can. If you block it you have 2 advantages: 1. no crank case gasses will go into the plenum, they must exit via the catch can only. 2. under vacuum there is no air leaking around the throttle body, under boost you dont loose any boost pressure. Even a small leak through the pcv valve can make a noticeable difference to how the car feels at idle, part throttle and WOT. I brought my boost threshold back by around 500rpm (GT30 turbo) and also tidied up the idle heaps (it was sucking at idle) by blocking mine.

R rubber is pretty cheap peace of mind. Jay, next time brake (really) hard as you turn the corner - just make sure you have plenty of room - much more fun than understeer:p should get a nice weight shift to the front, and the back lifts up and around:D

buy a cat.... I agree with the above, take the seats out, hose them, then hit em with Meguires upholstry cleaner - managed to get my sons puke smell out of the car after a 2 hour drive during which it soaked in:) And one of those really strong Jap car deodorants too, they will cover anything and last forever.

Sounds like its time to block your PCV valve.

Well your AAC (aux air control?) valve is at the back of the plenum near the fire wall. It has a bit screw that faces towards the drives side, and a brown plug in the other side.

I have problems in the dry with understeer, the wet scares the hell out of me, so I drive like an old mole when its raining - this is all because my bloody tyres dont grip as well as I'd like, perhaps you just need some stickier tyres on the front, as I do?

2 way has a locking mechanism for both accellerating and decellerating. 1.5 has the main lock accellerating, but only half the locking effort when decellerating

LSD causes massive understeer? how? I have never had this problem before with cars I have owned with mechanical LSD.

alot cheaper if you buy second hand, plus you see some really nice phat rims coming out of japan - try D1, JMS etc and take cash:), much better bargaining power. I bought some 17s new, cos at the time I was in WA and not many second hand wheel dealers around, but I really wish I had waited, cos I could have got some really nice second hand rims for the same price I paid new:(

guys, have a look on the www.greenline.jp site for shipping info. Best you get them sent by sea I think, as you pay by weight.

God I wish I had a 2 way, money needs to be spent elsewhere first though. Stock diff just doesnt seem too predictable, it will openwheel when it is in the mood, lock other times - PITA.

If you go t pirtek or enzed, you can probably buy some nice heat resistant line. Peace of mind would only cost you a couple of dollars:)

Best bet, get a place that services/repairs guages to do it:) I did mine, most of the needles just lever off upwards with a small screwdriver - the speedo though is another matter, I farked mine by trying to lever it off. I was told by the guy who replaced my speedo mechanism (cost $200), that with the speedo you have to lift one side of the round base part over the top of the needle towards the other side, rather than try and lift it off vertically. The spindle that the needle sits on is very fragile and it doesnt take much upward prying of the needle to rip it out of the guage (or at least move it enough that its stuffed). When replacing the needles, make sure you note exactly where the needles sat when the engine was at idle, and then put them back on. Mine all moved, so replacing them in the same spot they were when I removed them (ie dash out of the car) resulted in having to pull them all off again and start over. with the wires, just use the holes From the bulbs used to illuminate the dials at night, saves cutting holes. good luck.

Starting to sound like bonz...

1.12, man thats farking huge. Nice turbo though, merli had (or still has) one - if you need to upgrade the turbine housing, I can put you in touch with a place in the us that supplies genuine HKS turbine housing cheaper than direct from japan.

bonz, you scare me, you seriuosly scare me. Chicks want money, they want the name, thats about it. My brother drives an Alpha 156, its really not a very nice car, but it has a name and leather seats with alpha symbols embroided in them - chicks love it, even heard a mates girlfriend say she got wet just looking at it (they arent a particularly good looking car either) The other thing is, when any single female heres that my brother is in the oil industry, they want his phone number - every bloody time - 1001 questions etc They all just want one thing, money, but think about it, if a chick had a huge bank balance and didnt mind throwing it around, I know she would automatically rate a root from me:) I know, I am a s1ut too:p

Yep, got your e-mail, I will send you a detailed reply:)

The R31 RB20 has more aggressive cams according to the Tomei site, also, the problem with a term like 'full boost' is it's very arbitary. My full boost is 1.7bar, but my turbo makes 1.2bar ar around 4150rpm. B-man, cavitating I believe is compressor surge (reaching the surge line on the compressor map). The turbine is out of its efficiency range, I think you may find that the turbine housing/wheel is a bit small for the compressor. If you have a read of BOOSTDs thread about his $350 turbo, it may explain things a bit better. He was experiencing similar problems with his hybrid, and managed to find a few fixes.

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