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Steve

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Everything posted by Steve

  1. What I dont understand is that it is making 18 and then dropping. If it was internal gate, did they weld it shut, or wire it? If it still has the standard acutator in place, it is possible its leaking boost. As for professionally plumbed, I have had some 'professionals' (they certainly charged like professionals) do some pretty ordinary things. When I had my gate first plumbed, he did it wrong and I had to sort it myself. That is only one example of several. Not that I am saying these guys didnt do a good job, but sometimes it pays to check the basics.
  2. No, its just a case of dial up the boost you want, you need to set the duty cycle, and then the computer does the rest. You get 4 different boost settings on the controller, but you can change any of them whenever you want. All in all, if you want minimum fuss, a good setup.
  3. I was under the impression that the exhaust manifold is diff RB25 to RB26???? IF this is the case, you would have to have RB25 manifold modded or get an RB26 one
  4. What has boost got to do with destroying pistons???? detonation destroys pistons. Just wondering how many forget pistons you have belted with a hammer? Strange, every mechanic and engine builder I have spoken to tell me forget pistons are more brittle than cast. wrxhoon, a guy on the rb30 conversion thread, very recently, posted up that he can get weisco pistons for 1K with rings, pins, clips.
  5. SR910, which pipes? 3" mandrel bends only cost $25 each.
  6. And the cost of modifying the manifold to the RB26 head?
  7. Depends on the exact specs, but more torque will definately bring a turbo on quicker, remeber power is a function of torque and rpm.
  8. Have you seen grepins dyno result, 275 at 1.3bar no cams, no adj cam gears, no porting, just a manifold and he is running a 2835PRO S with internal gate. I have been for a ride in it, it seems to have not much more lag than a stock turbo. T518Z, probably closer to 1.4 bar, like I said 'at a pinch'. There is nothing wrong with running 8000redline, so no need to drop off power, either way though, a HKS2835 with smaller turbine housing (as grepin used), when it comes on boost will happen pretty quickly (nothing like garrett truck turbos:)). Trust turbos similarly, if not even more so, hit pretty hard. I have a friend with T518Z on SR20 (admittedly more torque than RB20) but boost hits, very very hard at around 3000rpm with the 8cm housing, seat of the pants it would have around 230-240rwkw I would guess - same guy who owned the 2530 powered cefiro mentioned above. As part of the original post DCEIVE said he doesnt mind lag, well for the power he wants to make thats luck, but I dont think it would be impossible to do what he hopes to achieve. Also, if I remeber correctly the R31 RB20 more agressive cam specs from the factory, so that will help too.
  9. Dyno???? Huge potential for your own little cottage industry here:)
  10. MattR, hope you have a good supply of gearboxes:) I have one, fitted to RB25 with a 0.61 turbine housing 1bar at around 3000rpm, it was like a switch. I now have 0.87 housing and have 1.2bar at pretty close to 4200rpm. Great turbo for SR20 or RB25, maybe a tad big for RB20, but I suppose that depends on what you like. ed, SR20 has more torque than RB25 - so you cant assume too much there:) If anyone is after a turbo for an easy 300rwkw, with good response, this is your baby.
  11. Sydneykid, I agree that a P&P will give a power increase, where as a headgasket will have the opposite effect. Just a note though, I had the head skimmed for around $80-100 (from memory) which I would have had to had done with a P&P. BUT I didnt have to pay to have the head pulled down and reassembled. Labour here varies between $60-70 an hour, so it isnt like we are talking small change - it all adds up. I have seen as high as 9.5CR on a gtr that puts out well over 400rwkw, BUT it has forged internals, AND it doesnt run on straight pump fuel, as mine does. So dont get me wrong, the decompression is purely for a street car that I can drive around all day on pump fuel with 1.7 bar on a hot day and dont have to worry about detonation. It all boils down to application, I just want a car I can get in and drive without having to worry every time a hot day comes around or if I dont have enough tolulene in the boot when I want to fill up - and it doesnt go too bad either, throttle response is good, off boost is good. Very streetable.
  12. John Keen wasnt too conversant with power fc when he did my car.
  13. I dont know sorry. It was a suggestion as a quick fix. Reallistically I think there is a problem somewhere else, as I can get well over 10lbs adjustment with my external gate and it holds fine - I am not sure what spring it has, but I have run as low as 10psi, so softer than the one your mate has. How is the gate plumbed up? Was the gate new, and if second hand, did you have it checked out before fitting it?
  14. Myth33, cat size is usually (AFAIK) measured in litres. A true highflow cat will be alot larger in diameter than the stock one. Some highflows are only marginally larger. Cats are a major restriction, therefore, make sure you have a look at a few and get the largest one you can find. Internally they are all pretty much the same design, with a honeycombe type arrangement, which wont vary a heap, but often inside has thick packing material between the catalyst and the side of the canister - so even though it looks alot larger, it may not be quite so good. the people I know that have used the exhuast plug that goes in the rear of the tail pipe have all said it kills power a fair bit. I know a guy with a 250rwkw supra that had one, then changed to an Apex flap valve, and found that alot better, and more user friendly as it can be adjusted from inside the car - a bit more expensive though.
  15. I think whatsisname and BOOSTD might have a couple of spare ones too
  16. A stiffer wastegate spring, as close to 20psi as possible, this will mean your boost controller has less work to do.
  17. Doesnt RB25 have a gallery for the NVCS oil supply?
  18. just noticed you want MID 300rwhp, sorry I thought you were after 300rwhp. For around 350rwhp, a better turbo would be a 2835, T518Z (at a stretch) or TD06 as mentioned.
  19. lukits01, what to look for depends on what you want. Noise and power go hand in hand, but noise doenst always mean power. Look for 80mm+ diameter, straight pipes, ie the more severe the bends the more restrictive Mufflers/resonators should be straight through design and the same diameter as the pipe A good example is the Apexi N1 system, and as the pipe has few bends, the rear resonator sticks out at an angle.
  20. Just be careful buying an unknown quantity - it may be 3", but how well does it flow? do you have a verifyable result available to check? I have had 3 cat back systems, and they all flowed very differently, and made for a different car to drive. Upside to buying a Jap cat back would be ease of fitment (all modular systems ), proven product (alot of R+D) and good resale value if you want to change it. I have spent $50 changing my cat back systems, I am on my 3rd system, cos I wasnt 100% happy with the previous ones (too loud, quiet but choked top end above 290rwkw, and now just about spot on) If you are after good power, get an N1 system (as long as noise isnt an issue). dump pipe wont make a huge difference with stock turbo, but front pipe will as will cat - with cat, make sure it is a high flow, not just a standard cat with 3" flanges. I have seen a few of these getting around, and they are a total waste of money.
  21. $1080, and thats a cheap option???? Dont do it, buy a second hand Jap one, they flow well (they have been developing these things for a long time), they fit up perfectly (their systems are modular, and they change out in a few minutes), and they will retain their resale value. I have now tried 3 different cat backs, an apexi N1, a nismo street legal, and now on a HKS super dragger. All up it has cost me $50 to swap between them, if you shop around, you can find a good system at a good price and if you sell it get your money back, try that with some no name made system. If you want power I can recommend either the N1 or super dragger, both flow very well, if you want street legal, go something like the nismo. And you can expect $300 plus change from your $1080 if you buy second hand Jap system, and that is a pretty good saving IMHO
  22. Good to hear things are ready to get serious. I think you will find with your CR, and running forgies, you will be able to wind in heaps of ign timing, and run 2 bar all day without a problem (my beastie runs 1.7bar without a problem on the street), so I think 300+ is very realistic. I hope also you have a really noisey exhaust, cos mine helped alot:) So when is she going on the dyno for a proper tune?
  23. Was it fat? that cat?
  24. Thanks for the kind words Hiep and Mat, I was actually hoping to get a closer look at your engine bay there Mat, to get some tidy up tips for mine:D I still have a long way to go I think to win any awards. Grepins engine bay is looking very nice these days too (tidier than mine, but he needs to give it a dust), but I think it will take along time before anyone takes the award from Mat if the photos are anything to go by. I dont plan on running the car, not really interested, maybe one day to see what it does, but for now I am still not happy with it, just a couple of things that need sorting, like FMIC to plenum pipe, then some decent rubber with grip, stronger wastegate spring, etc etc... it never ends:) MattR, what is happening with you? When are you getting a new 'line?
  25. Oh, and he upgraded the AFM to turbo pipe, as these have a habbit of collapsing anywhere from around 200rwkw.
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