Steve

Well what I am trying to say is you can have a tuned length system that flows well, but doesnt generate the exhaust gas velocity that a 3-2-1 does. Most of the Jap manifolds I have seen (admittedly not alot) have very smooth joins and point the gas flow in the same direction before the join, not as they join - minimise interferance to maximise velocity and flow whilst keeping back pressure to a minimum. From what I have seen, seems to work best for a street tuned car. But definately, make sure the angle of the join of the runners is as slight as possible, as I am pretty sure this is what is hurting mine (plus the added fact that long runners are being used). I dont mind a bit of lag, but when its not doing much until 4500-5000rpm, well thats just a little late for me - I would prefer to have 1 bar in by 4000rpm where the RB25 hits the meat of its torque. Either that of I would have to get the bottom end balanced, solid lifters and valve springs to handle a much higher redline, which I dont want to do. Like I said before, just my 2c worth based on getting the wrong manifold made - expensive mistake, minimum it will cost is for a turbine housing, but ultimately I am pretty sure it is not doing my top end any favours either.

Thats the big problem, noise is reduced by increasing back pressure - a quiet exhaust is a restrictive exhaust. Thats the good thing about the apexi flap, 1/2 a second to open it or shut it. So when you are just cruising, you dont get added attention. What exhaust do you have?

Fair call - as I see it, you guys are doing more than anybody else out there to get drift recognised in this country - and its a good thing someone is doing it.

And thanks for all you are doing for drift in SA and australia. SA leading the way:D

Thats it I'm taking my bat and ball and going home - he's name calling. Why so sensitive, seem to get riled pretty easy??? or have I missed the vain of your post? If I have sorry:) think you will find that wasnt his helmet

If at all possible, try and follow the design of the Jap manifolds to suit big singles, ie, 3/2/1. I am pretty sure they do this to keep the gas velocity high when it hits the turbo, thus spooling it up quicker than longer/tuned lenght manifolds will. I went tuned length, and ended up with a bit of a lag monster on a turbo that definately shouldnt be laggy, ie turbine housing matched to the engine.

MattyB, do you know of anyone who has done this, cos unless it has been done, its speculation, no? And how does this ADR approved part thing work? You would have to provide proof that it is an ADR approved, or OEM item. Not the regency inspector prove it isnt. See the problem? All the inspector would have to do is say I dont believe xxx is an ADR approved item, and bingo, you now have the burden of proof. Nice neat and really easy for the inspector. Like I said, not always as easy as it sounds.

NOT according to the ACCC if you could tell me who is a higher authority, or a contact name there - great, but I know what I was told, not hear say, but what I was told by the ACCC.

Dean, not sure my memory is that good:)

What sort of exhaust do you have? Have you thought of an Apexi flap thingo? Really takes the edge off.

Well, for starters, the police are entitled to stop you for no reason, they can also defect you if they believe your car is in any way unroadworthy. How many cars do you think will be 100% roadworthy? Not many. And, even if they are wrong - they still dont have to pay for your defect notice, or the time spent by you at regency unless you can PROVE that the police officer knew the car was roadworthy and sent you to regency. And it has nothing to do with criminal law, its all covered by the road traffic act 1961 and associated legislation. And thats a fact. Also, they dont have to accept any engineers certificate. Exemption from complying with ADRs is granted by the minsiter for transport, the authority is delegated to members of regency - which means it is at the discrection of the inspector to grant the exemption. Even engineers are powerless - I know, I have spoken to more than one. This is the Law - state law, not federal law. And, like the DFDA, it is power unto itself. Unlike criminal law where the burden of proof is on the government, here the burden of proof is on the individual, plus, even with overwhelming evidence, the wording is that 'exemption MAY be granted' not must be granted. Anyways, if there is anyone out there that has a spare 100.000 or so to take out a class act, it would be great to see it happen. The final word, Road Traffic Act, 1961, Part 4A - Central Inspection Authority, para 163K: No person who does any act in pursuance or purported pursuance of this Part, or omits to exercise any power conferred under this Part, is under any civil or criminal liability in respect of that act or omission if the person acted, or omitted to act, in good faith and with reasonable care. Still think it would be that easy? There are people who enjoy getting rooted by beaurocracy as much as you. Yes we are trying to do something, but unfortuneately it is quite an involved process, and has to be watertight, as governtment being what it is, will find one fault with a submission and dismiss it - not everyone has the resources to be able to employ a team of lawyers to take them to task, especially when the only way to get around the current system is to appeal to the governments sense of fairness to business and the public in general. It is very easy to say, 'you could do this' different thing altogether when you go about doing it. Thanks for your support skylinegeoff, and for interests sake, I checked about trade practices act with the ACCC, and guess what - it doesnt apply to Regency Park. The person I spoke to got very edgy and cagey and said 'its a very grey area' summed up that no it didnt apply. If it did apply, I do believe the above paragraph from the Road Traffic Act would well and truly sew that one up. It is a can of worms. If you do know of any avenues, or have seen precedents set in other states that may be applicable, please do tell.

Not sure how much.

Just fitted a HKS super dragger - much better than the Nismo one I had - up top anyways. Does anyone know if the super dragger is above legal noise limits? Hope not, cos it has a really nice bark.

The red S14 is D1s new drift car, and it does have a widebody kit, with stock wheels on it you can fist your fist between the arch and wheels:) Wheels are like that cos some people just like their cars phattened:)

Was it a red one with vented bonnet, black roof, widebody kit?

JimX, I am no expert, but what busky describes appears a little different - detonation being the ignition of the air/fuel mix BEFORE the flame front that is caused by the spark - it actually explodes rather than burns. From what busky is saying, preignition is started by a hot plug, before the spark, but burns with the same characteristics as if the fuel was ignited, not spontaneously combusts as in detonation. Does that make sense, or am I missing the point? Busky?

More power (at less boost) - bigger turbo - more turbine gas flow - smaller wastegate? I dont fully understand the bigger gate = lower boost. With my 40mm gate, I ran 1 bar all day, it still holds fine at 1.7bar except for a small (0.1bar) boost drop at above 7000rpm, I believe this is due to my wastegate spring being rated at 10lbs. I also did a run at 10lbs on a dyno, and it held boost perfectly. The different runs resulted in power difference of nearly 100rwkw (10lbs vs 25). I fully expect now that I have a freer flowing exhaust my top end has shifted right too, so the difference will be greater now (seat of the pants only so far:))

Interesting, only thing that I can see is missing is the size of the turbine housing - a larger housing would equate to needing a smaller gate, a smaller housing a larger gate - thoughts? anyway - may throw a spanner into the works, but I have no probs running 1 bar with my 40mm gate - this was with a small (0.61AR) turbine housing, but as it was on a 3037 - the 'R' of the AR wouldnt be that small. It also worked, as may be imagined, with a larger 0.87 AR turbine housing. Bottom line though, it would appear 40mm is ample to control boost on a GT30 size turbo -as Sydneykid has already pointed out:)

Thats the problem, they can defect you for anything, the burden of proof is on the car owner, not the inspector. Dont feel bad Joel, I have dents too - arent they OEM:D

Got several bases covered, both elect and opposition govt. Media, hmmm, I am still undecided about that one - last thing we need is more sensationalist hype about revheads on the streets in 'dangerous' cars.

Congrats, sounded nice on the dyno too, lurve that lumpy idle - Mick kept laughing and smiling after each run (while I was there anyways) when he was tuning it:)

Sounds good. Its amazing how much difference a small boost leak can rob. I got my boost in about 3-400rpm earlier from blocking the PCV valve, tidied idle up a bit too. I spent nearly 3 hours dialing in the cams only to find the original setting was close to right. It is amazing, the difference was only minimal going from 0deg to -5deg on the the exhaust. I am happy considering the setup. The exhaust is definately killing power up top, but that is what you get for a street legal, quiet exhaust. I knew this would be the case, as when I put it on it killed power/spool up when compared to the N1 system I had on previously. I made 270 at 1.1 bar, 285 at 1.2bar, (not that great when I was making 256 at 1 bar without cams, but the engine has been decompressed) and there after the car starts choking. Final figure was 309. Also, I think I may need to change my intercooler to throttle body pipe - its only 2 1/2 inches diameter, so I am sure a 3" pipe will help it breathe a little better (it was 3" before the trust plenum went on, mick seemed to think it would be worth alot to upgrade). I will get it up on the rollers again when the pipe is sorted, and might just rip off the exhaust to see what happens. Sounds like its time to get some decent rubber if you havent already, normal street tyres just dont seem to like much over 230-240rwkw. Group buy for RE540s anbody?

the variable figure is solenoid duty cycle. The higher the boost the higher the duty cycle needs to be. If after adjusting boost and duty cycle the boost spikes, adjust the duty cycle down until it brings the boost up to the correct pressure. If the boost is slow to come up, adjust the duty cycle up until it starts to spike, then knock it back a bit. It is supposed to automatically learn the correct setting once you are close to the correct duty cycle - but if you are way out, I have found that the boost will be a fair bit off.

Just checked with Mark, he said no probs, just go down and see him - although grepin was down there and I noticed the mesh I had was a little smaller than his, so may not be exactly what you are looking for. 1mx1m is a fair bit, are you doing making a front bar our of mesh?

AFAIK, its just sitting down there. Perhaps give Mark a call. I will be going in this arvo to have my exh cam dialed in, I can ask for you then if you like.