_Ryan_

Can i suggest going bilsteins with tein S tech for the same price as some cheap coilovers. This will lower an inch or so lower than stock, handle well, ride well, and the quality of the shock is there. Being easily/locally rebuild-able, when you have the funds, you can get a threaded height adjustable sleeve for them, some Eibach or H&R or Hypercoil springs, and a revalve to match, then slam the car, all the while keeping with the ride quality and control of decent gear.

Trent posted in your E85 thread...

Nisswreck have a few stags atm IIRC. Saw it posted somewhere... Being in SA maybe you should head down?

LOL Honesty.

Want offshore whiteline or NSW made Selbys for similar money(same IIRC)? http://www.selbys.com.au/ Aussie Jobs, Aussie Steel.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/St...tml&hl=wiki

I nearly did that, but thought it was a little cheesy...

Its most likely alignment, but all the above are worth checking when you buy a car...

I more meant are tyres equal tread on each axle. Was it aligned after the ride height change? Check bushes/ball joints/alignment/Tyre pres.

Check wheek nuts, check tyre pressures, get under the car and check condition of all bushes/ball joints(or get this done with alignment), Get alignment, Check ride height, What diff and tyres?

He also wants comfort. Cheap, Low, Comfy. Dunno what Type Flex are worth, but some in ~6/5 same as my 32 would fit the bill(yet i run mine high)

Race Radiators, 59 Bennet St Dandenong VIC 3175 - (03) 9793 2798

Bilsteins, 1100 or so, Tein S Tech ~300 That will give ride quality. Completely slamming a car won't give factory ride quality without spending a bit more money. You can have stiff and well controlled ride, but it isn't always cheap. Why do you want to go what is possibly illegally low, on crap quality gear? Stock shocks and lowered springs was either badly matched rates or blown stock shocks at a guess.

Sounds like a challenge. And would look far from stock behind the kick panel. I wonder how a series 2 stagea or R34 ECU would go in a series 1 stagea... pin outs would be similar I think, but then we have the issue of different motors/sensors, and trans. See what Trent says.

How far off are Series 1 pads? Rears are same as R31 if that helps... I prob have spare backing plates some where if needed.

So what did you have to do to fit your R32 ECU?

Might be worth doing a quick search, i THINK RB30 from an R31/VL might fit.

I would use QFM A1RM over Greenshit. have used RB74(same as A1RM) and had greenstuff on two cars. I don't use greenstuff on the 32 by choice, it just came with them, so using them up... The feel. bite from cold etc is far superior. and the hotter they get the better they stop. Green stuff you think they will get better when they get hotter and they just don't.

Stock springs were prob sagged.

or brown springs in thomastown vic will do custom for 260 a SET, 130pr. 2.5k is bilstein/eibach coilover territory...

I have thought about a boring 4door 350gt to replace both my cars, but the power window motors scare me

I love my KU36's. wet I have had no issues and done prob 500kms in serious rain, more again in damp. In the dry they are great.

Can you give us a $ value for coil/shock to work with? Have you done any other suspension work? Does the budget allow for camber correction? You might want to add poly castor bushes for the extra castor and the new stiffer bush, and some stiffer swaybars(combat body roll, which when using a low spring rate is important IMO).

if a 2835 is cropped, what makes the avo reared 3071 so bad?

Try bob from NZ. or niswreck in SA