dantheman88

as the title states im after a cheap rb20det to chuck in my r32 while im building a rb25/30. want the complete engine with loom, ecu and front pipe if possible im on the gold coast so the closer the better

it doesnt look like there is any leaking from the pump. it mainly looks like its coming from around the dipstick and the front of the engine where it joins the sump

does anyone think this could be a head gasket or cracked head? or would that result in oil in the coolant?

It looks like it is coming from the oil dip stick among other areas. There is actually quite a bit which worries me

Anyone?

is this the water/oil exchange your talking about? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=74375 I have the same as the one above with the remote oil filter and oil cooler and completely bypas the exchange

is there anyway to check it? and what would be involved in fixing it?

hey guys Just noticed I have a water leak. Its not any of the hoses as they are all brand new braided hoses. It looks like its coming out the sump oil pan area. See Pics... Would this be a rooted or leaking water pump? If I need to replace it, should I be doing the timing belt and eveything as well? Or can i just do the water pump?

Then it's not really any easier. I was just thinking If someone was to do a conversion it would be easy if you only had to swap over a couple wires and your running. Then you could do the nistune on the rb20 later down the track. I think a lot of people find the hardest part of this conversion the wiring

Yeh there are a lot of people running rb25s with rb20 looms and ecus as the rb20 ecus are easy to reprogram. I'm interested to hear if people can think running the rb25 with the rb20 loom but the rb25 ecu would work as the wiring looms are basically the same. Which would mean no need to splice the looms

Hey guys, After many hours scouring the interweb on everything for a R32 into RB25 conversion I have found a site with some very useful information. As most of us know the RB20 and RB25 ecu pinouts is the same except for the Injector 4 and 6 pins. This site is saying that all you need to do is use the RB20 Engine Loom, swap the two injector wires over, and the plugs for the injectors and then you pretty much just plug the RB25 ECU in and your pretty much good to go. All that would be left is the VCT which by the looks of the wiring schematic for the RB25 would just need the plug from a RB25 loom and wire the 2 wires in. Can anyone confirm if this would work? I have been thinking about it long and hard and cant find any reason it wouldnt seeings the pinouts are basically the same. If it does then it would make one hell of an easy conversion, as there would be no need to splice looms and everything would plug straight in. I have heard of people using the RB20 loom and ECU, but not the RB20 Loom and Rb25 ECU... Any input appreciated Here is the site: http://bc240.com/ind...hp?showtopic=12 And heres the DIY from the site:

Bump

Anyone got any ideas? I really want to get this going

Hey guys So I have been finishing up putting the wiring onto my rb25 in my r32 and have found when I ground the engine to the chasis it shorts out. I started taking wiring from the engine and I cut the wire I had run to the constant 12 volt injector feeI and found that the 12v contstant injector feed was causing the block to get 12 volt and blow my main fuse. Would this mean I havent wired my injectors properly? Anyway i put everything back on and grounded the engine to the chasis again and blew my fuse again. This time the white/blue wire running to my alternator was causing my block to charge to 12 volts. What would be causing this to happen? I have relocated my battery to my boot using 2 gauge power cable with a fuse with the black/yellow and white cable that would normally be going to the positive battery terminal running through it. I noticed on the 32 workshop manual that the white/blue wire from the alternator should also be running to the positive battery terminal with a 75 amp fuse at the terminal but I dont have this? Could that be causing the power through the alternator?

Yeh let us know becasue I will be very interested to see how you go with it. I dont have the cooler section for mine so im not sure whether it would be needed or not seeings the Hicas is all gone

pump sold

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This is exactly what i was needing help on for my conversion. I dont have any of the lines, I already have all solenoids removed and a lock bar fitted, so i wasnt sure how the pipes should be run either. Because the hicas is gone, can i just run the pump to the steering rack then the steering rack to the resovior, then the resovior back to the pump? I was thinking about getting some banjo bolts with the barb fittings and just pushing on the hose lines. what do you reckon?

bump. or if anyone can make me one? im on the Gold Coast

I found that the hard line from the master wasn't done up very tight and was leaking a little. So I tightened it and now the clutch pedal Has some pressure and pushes the fork, but it doesn't feel quite normal yet. It feels loose until it jut about hits the floor, then gets pressure a little. I'm not sure if I need to adjust the clutch or try bleeding out any air again

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Well i have tried tapping it with a hammer and using a pry bar and couldnt get any movement. I am not 100% if it bled right as I have never done it before. But i didnt follow the instructions on here and I still couldnt get my clutch pedal to get pressure. but I thought that may have been becasue my slave pin was compressed so much. I am using a rb20 box as thats what came with my project. I have an aftermarket clutch, but I still have a stock pressure plate and flywheel. Could the stock flywheel with an aftermarket clutch be causing the fork not to move? I know the rb20 box isnt very strong but i wasnt planning to go very hard on it until I could get a rb25 box

By the looks of this site the rb20 and rb25 pressure plates are the same. And according to the site I definantly have a turbo pressure plate and flywheel so Now i have no clue what the problem could be http://www.skylineowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=151491

Yeh I need a r32 pressure plate/ clutch cover whatever it's called I'm on the gold coast so the closer the better

Yeh I did the whole process of bleeding th air out of each section for the slave. It's just that the slave needs the pin pushed in a fair way just to get it in place (shown In the pic in my first post) and the fork has absolutely no backward movement even If I tap it with a hammer. That's what's made me think that I may have a rb25 clutch cover if they are bigger then rb20 ones??? Cos that may explain why my fork can't move. What do you reckon? And I just remembered my clutch cover didn't line up to the pins on my flywheel and I had to drill the holes out a bit on the cover to make it go on which I found a bit strange