GiJOr33

well i started it an still no good. The guy who buggered it up had a Snap-On box that plugged into the port under the steering wheel. That's where i got the Error 21 from. I have a funny feeling that he's wiped the HKS computer of the tune that was in it so it's back to factory defaults.

yeah i've pulled the battery out (flat from trying to start it on fouled plugs), so it will have the night to reset, tomorrow i'll try and start it again with clean plugs and a different Ignition Amplifier as well. Hopefully all will be ok.

Yeah... see this thread re my main problem! http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...02&goto=newpost

sorry to drag up an old thread, but Trev, where did he find the chaffed wire? Was it under the dash, or in the engine bay? where exactly? My car is miss firing and running really rich. I've changed the CAS but that didn't help. I've got a spare igniter module which i hope is the problem. The diagnostic computer the mechanic had said Error 21 Ignition Signal Problem. Perhaps i have a bare wire that is shorting too. I might try a different coil pack loom. Any tips would be sweet!

these are 20km old... brand new, not 20,000km. I had them put in when tuned on tuesday and the car is running way too rich and they have fouled up. So rather than spend another $100 i'd prefer to clean them

I've got a set of platinum plugs and was told not to use fine sand paper on the firing tip as this knocks off the platinum tip and also not use a wire brush. So if you have fouled plugs how do you clean them? is there a solvent i can use or something (perhaps just petrol)? I'm having missfiring problems as the car is running really rich and the car gets almost undrivable after a while so i'd like to clean the current fouling off it to give it a fresh start for when i have to drive it back to the mechanic. Cheers, Andrew

Yep... buy the 1gallon bottle and a 1lt bottle as well, just in case (you can always return the 1L). I just put 3L in my R33 Manual gearbox, but i don't think it was completely drained (mechanic said i needed to top it up after the removed it due to spillage)

yeah... i don't have an engine manual or a manual for the HKS computers. Oh well... i'm tipping that something has come loose under the foot well where the FCON V is sitting. The car ran perfectly fine before i dropped it off for a tune up. I've looked at all the things in the engine bay to make sure they are all plugged in correctly, such as the igniter, the coils, the CAS. We changed over the CAS to see if that was the problem, it wasn't. I've got a spare set of coil packs and an igniter here that i can check. All the injector plugs are on etc so the only logical thing to check is the dogs breakfast of wiring looms under the passenger dash/footwell

The diagnostic computer is giving the above error on my R33 GTSt. Anyone have any idea what i should check to see if it's the problem? Basically the symptoms are very rich, very rough running. It missfires heaps and struggles to idle. The plugs foul to the point where they are black and wet. It happened after i took it in for a check up on the dyno so i'm not sure if it's something that just happened to fail or if it's something they have done. I took it back to them and they changed back what they did to the way it was (not much changed). My car has a HKS FCON V, HKS VPC, and a HKS PFC-FCON. It's got me buggered. I've tried another Crank Angle Sensor, i've put new spark plugs in. Could it be coil packs, or possible the PTU (the little thing that sits up the back of the engine that plugs into the coil pack loom). Any tips would be good.

aaahh... sweet. So the screen is it's own computer that gets the readings from various sensors rather than from the ecu itself (which would get them from other sensors). So if you pull out the stock ecu the monitor will still be able to display the items as normal. The nismo aftersales option, is that just a display upgrade? So if i got a powerfc and the nismo aftersales option i could see 1.8bar on the screen? Or is the aftersales option only available if you keep the stock ECU? Thanks for the info Andrew

After looking into R34 GTR's and their upgrade paths, i was wondering what people do as far as engine management goes. That monitor that sits in the dash i assume hooks up to the standard computer, so if you replace the stock computer with an aftermarket one does it mean you lose all function of that display? What are the options to keep the full functionality of the display unit but also allow much better tunability of an aftermarket ECU? Just wondering what you R34 GTR owners have done... Cheers, Andrew

cool... the only reason i mentioned the front mount intercooler is because it reduces airflow to the radiator.

Hey Guys, Just wondering what the normal oil and water temps those of you with R33 GTST's are getting, especially with a Front Mount Intercooler. My oil is around the 80-90 degrees, and water is around the 85-95 degrees on normal daily driving. Freeway driving they are lower, oil at 75-85 and water 80-90 Just wondering what you are getting. Is over 100 bad for water (ie boiling)? I'm a bit concerned that these temps are a little high. Both water and oil temp gauges are after market. The oil temp sensor replaces the sump plug, and the water temp sensor is in the pipe that goes to the top of the radiator which i think is the return pipe so i kind of expect it to be hotter than the 76 degrees the thermostat opens at. Just thought i'd see what others are getting. Cheers, Andrew

you need software and HKS don't give it out to anyone but authorised tuners... so very hard to get tuned. They stack up better than most of the other computers out there...

I would take either clutch. Both good... the rattle is only when you have your foot on the clutch so not that much. Not enought to piss you off... and people who know cars will think "oooh... he's got a twin plate clutch, must be a fast car" and people who don't know what the hell it is aren't important!!!

it will rattle when you put the clutch in. Makes people think your car is rooted, then you blaze away when the lights go green if it's anything like the OS Giken twin plate it will be awesome!!! Nice and firm, no slippage, but still easy enough to drive. I'd buy that clutch if i was looking to upgrade.

yeah, i'm draining it now. I'll just chuck it in the old corolla or chuck it in mums car. Octane boost could be ok, but i wouldn't be hitting boost untill that tank was empty and you've filled up fresh again.

I've got an RB25DET Bottom end, comes with oil pump, oil pick up, sump water pump, harmonic balancer, and most other things bolted directly to the block (no clutch assembly though). Needs new pistons so would be perfect for someone wanting to rebuild an RB25DET Looking for somewhere around the $500-550 mark. Located on the east side in Melbourne. I can ship at buyers expense. Cheers, Andrew

All i know is that the R32 GTR uses the same clutch as an R33 GTST, as i have an R32 GTR OS Giken clutch in my R33 GTST. There's plenty of R33 GTST owners here who would be looking to upgrade and $1200 is a good price!

you need to block all pipes connecting to the bov. And also block off the hole the bov sits over

OK cool... so it sounds like it's still a piggy back rather than a full replacement like the Power FC. Well i'll see if i can find out if my loom will work with the pro and if there are any other sensors i need as i am not particularly keen on rewiring the whole car. Also i'll check to see if someone i know still has the HKS software. i'll let you know.

hmmm... ok, but is there any evidence that it would be that bad that it needs to be drained? There is only a quarter of a tank. The car started fine with it and ran fine around the block. No boost at all though... not going to till it's been tuned. Don't want to damage the pistons again!!!

so what about wiring loom? how would you plug it into another car if it is setup for a GTR/RB26? I currently have an FCON V (non pro) on my R33 GTST (RB25DET, as i'm sure you'd know ). Mine is a piggy back computer so the stock ECU is still in place to control the standard features. Would the one you have replace my standard ECU and FCON V or is it like mine and also a piggy back but more powerful? Where do you get it tuned, as HKS tuners are extremely few and far between Cheers, Andrew

that's why the skyline forums is better than the silvia forums... cos at least here we know what we are talking about!!! What happens is the pressure wave reflects off the closed throttle and back towards the turbo. When it reaches the turbo, the spinning wheel chops the pressure wave (also referred to as compressed air). That is the sound you hear. It could also be you BOV opening and closing (like mine does)... unless you have removed it

hmmm... maybe i'll just run it and then after that's used up i'll chuck in a new fuel filter as well.