DannyC33

wow been a while since i updated this. i bought a vs statesman in december as a tow car/daily so that the laurel didnt have to see so much road time. after all the coil overs, low profile tires and recaro seats dont exactly make for comfortable daily driving. in this time ive been saving some cash, believe it or not the 5ltr v8 in the statesman is better on fuel then the laurel, in the coming weeks ill be getting a new afm hopefully, looks like im gonna be goin away from the z32 route. been told from one of my mates (which happens to be one of the guys that created nistune) that they have managed to get the newer style afms from the 35 gtr to work with nistune and they seem to be a lot cheaper, and higher resolution. reason for getting the statesman is i plan on hitting the track fairly often from now on, and dont wish to be running the risk of breaking the laurel out on the track and having no way home.

no dont do that!!! persistance is the key here dude. itll be worth it in the end.

ah ok well if you want ill sell ya mine. its the standard cross over pipe with the factory bov. just i dont have the hose to connect to the intake

you mean the cross over pipe from the throttle body? to run the standard bov? if so i have one of them also haha

alright no probs

i dunno why people have to modify the cross member. i used the standard crossmember. fit fine.

have you got a manual console for it? if not i may have a spare laying around. its a ceffy one so has the shitty trim on the top. but better then nothin.

when i did my manual conversion i got the gearbox loom with it and it just plugged straight in no soldering required at all. as for crossmember the standard auto crossmember fit up fine i believe. you probably should have done the hand brake before the gear box. im not sure home much room is up there with the box in but you need to drill holes and put nut and bolt with big wide washers so you done pull the bolts out when you rip the hand brake up. i believe when we did mine we had to cut the mounts off for the foot brake release then just slipped the manual hand brake up to the panel join and bolted it down.

nice to know. ill soon be replacing mine with a new style of afm. its an insert style afm that nistune are testin atm.

Hmm... mine also goes to 9k. I'd been told that was the difference between turbo and non turbo cluster?

Fair enough... how do I tell if it's early or late??? Mines early as its 88

Lol I'm still serious bout double plus post. I was drunk last night I posted that, but that's how bad I want it And dunno bout makin mould of it man. I'm sure if you tool it to a fiberglasser they could do it.

Alternatively. Andrew name your price.

Holy f**k I hate you!!! Make a mould of it and make copies. Haha That or tell me what you paid for it and I'll give you double plus freight for it

What?? Cefiro cluster and no wiring required?

Ah right. Curious how I'd wire that up?? I guess it just needs a power feed?

Ceffy cluster? Where is the clock on a Ceffy??

so as title says im lookin for a working clock for a c33. mines busted and id like to replace it. lemme know if you have one im happy to pay freight. cheers

Haha sounds interesting. I will have a sus on sd later

so just got back from gettin it retuned. safe to same im dissapointed. after fixing the restriction in the exhaust caused by the cat its reduced my boost drop of over 3psi in the top end down to 1-1.5 psi. its holding peak power longer which is also good. how ever. this has had a double edged sword effect. in doin this its increased the air flow through the afm to a point where its reading past the mapping and caused a significant drop in both midrange and top end power as it was retarding the timing. went from 174rwkw to 160rwkw. few runs later on the dyno we got it back up to 173. still lacking the midrange it had previously. on the final two runs after some more fiddling with the maps it made 180.3 and was at about 90% of the midrange power it had last time. still a gain on 6rwkw, but now i need to buy a new afm haha. always somethin with cars ey? because of the afm bein maxxed out its causing rough readings and basically cant do shit else to it untill i get a z32 afm. on the plus side. shaun (boostworx) said my rb20 seems healthy and that he wouldnt bother pullin it down and rebuilding it. its not knocking or doing anythin silly, and says that at most it probably just needs a head gasket, vrs set and a new timing belt. so thats good. will save me a couple grand that can be spent else where.

I thought about that. But I just don't trust it. I know a lot of people have good experiences with wrecker motors. But knowing my luck I'll end up with a dud that'll pop to soon. Or already have issues. And from what I've seen around Adelaide rb20s are still costing above $1200. I'd rather spend the extra $1000 and have somethin I know will be reliable.

Also if Ya need a hand with anything. Let me know may be able to help out with parts and such.

Aww cool. Yeah man for sure. I'll be keeping an eye on this thread. When Ya ready to go for a cruise let me know and we work somethin out

Awesome will be good to know of it fits

so i know its in the parts thread. but not exactly what im after. my rack is leakin in the laurel.. it was originally hicas. ive since put in a non hicas cradle and removed the lines yadda yadda. i plan to replace the rack when i remove the engine and would like to put a non hicas rack in if possible. can i use a non hicas s13 rack or will the lines not fit up??