Gts4RB30

also i just read that when fitting studs to the mains you have to tunnel bore the mains? Well ive ground and ballanced my crank i've never heard this before is this true?

right so nismoid i would be better running the factory cams ie rb20 ones as i was only going to use stage one tomei items. Also what is the safest power level and rpm of a standard balancer as i cant find the info.

so in turn it would also read "true" if i where ton read it from the manifold and not the turbo side of things which would allow me to adjust it accodingly for what pressure i want???

any replies?

now the turbs moved around the right way, who should i get to modifiy the waste gate actuator so that it still reads the same boost, any recommendations?

thanks guys found out the groves go to the drivers side of the engine, appears all rb engines the same, went to a mate wreckers and we pulled a few down that were fked just to check, secondly with the r32 balancer albeit that everything is balanced now what is the safest power lvl i should push the thing to keeping in mind the revs aswell???

also running 4.3 difs so it should get up and on it quicker.

ta but the rods torque tongue is on the same side i pulled the ones outta my old 20 to find out last night, anyone know of where i can get new cp rings for sale??? one was broken in the box so now i need a new set.

I have new spool rods going in my beast, and as they don't have a forward mark on them i know you have to make the tongue side go to the torque up stroke side but for the life of me i can't remember which side the bearing grove should be on??? drivers or passengers side

umm ok i know about weather as i was born in townsville and lived in mount isa for a few yrs and in melbourne. but the rest of what you just said i was like {:| huh

it has a 0.5 to4 front housing and 1.06 rear but i'm gonna change a few things soon to a .7 and .86 rear. John the ultimate goal will be around 400, as my weak points at the moment are the box and clutch which is going to cost around 8k so i'll save that up and get ppg gear set and nismo twin plate. so atm i'm just building it to be able to do what i want too, when i'm going to do it.....if that makes sense.

hey GTS thats weird that you say that because i have seen NUMEROUS cars make more power in the cold then the heat, even the hi octane r32 when it went to japan it ran 150hp MORE in the cold air then our air here. And another thing japans "general" humidity is also higher, so in turn that would leave me to believe that it would also have an inherit benefit having more moisture in the air that the sensor would pick up on and compensate for?????

well see i'm happy with not being on full boost till 4k as it is a family car still and yeah the 35 has more room for me to grow, so that when we get the clubby back on the road i can do with it what i want, i appreciate what you are saying about the gt30 but it will be maxed out before i reach my goal. of 400rwkw. and isn't the midrange also partially governed by the timing and airflow avaliable??? have considered going a smaller rear wheel but it's not right for me atm. i want the car to drive happily off boost and when i want boost stick my foot into it and enjoy the high revs, the head has had some work done to it like cams and 100lb valve springs and the head i'm using already runs bigger valves from factory then the rb25det, how ever in saying that i would like to port match it aswell as a cnc port and polish but funds are now runnig short. i am also looking at stroking further down the track to 3.4 or more as some friends of mine are doing some RnD into 3.6 atm with billet blocks. so in saying all this is woukd be happier with having the room to grow with the 35 then the 30 also please be aware that this is a genuine garrett ball bearing turbo not a copy, so i think i'll get a little bit better response then other gt35's????

^^^^^^doesn't make sense as this is a 3ltr, it also has bigger cams so i'm expecting it's go to drive like a strong na off boost, and beside i've seen gt3540rs on sr20 with plenty of mid range, the turbo was actually designed for 2.5 to 4 ltr engines so being a 3 i'm kinda right in the middle, and if a rb25 will push a gt30 to 300rwkw and have plenty of mid range i can't see why a gt35 on a over sized forged rb30 would do any less justice. the engine is being built to handle a flogging.

ok as i am still learning the abbreviations what is IAT?

na mate just going to use the capa 12 psi internal gate and actuator, for a while. the engine is being built to handle 800 hp so i'm basically doing it in stanges, with what i have.

WTF how you figure that??? if a 4ltr barra can spin them too 380 to 400rwkw then an rb30 will piss 250 to 280 rwkw out of it and it's bigger then a gt30 which easily does over 300 rwkw. and my piece of shitt td06 was doing 230rwkw on an rb20, so ABSOLUTELY NO REASON why this won't punch that out.

common all stuff needs to go willing to drop prices heaps.

DVS NA MAN gt35r from xr6t

oh yeah totally agree. but i am concerned with start up. primarily

na man only looking at 1 bar or 250 to 280 is rwkw.

places not to touch are kawana auto service and Totally Imports. I used to work at Toatall Imports, and the owner is very dodgey in what he gets us to do. Craig at Toruqe and Tune is very good , and so is browns performance in nambour with small things. Don't take anything to top cog. if anything take it down to brisbane to mark at godzilla motorsport or top rpm highly rated workshops with proven background, and stay away from mercury motorsport.

one of my major concerns with ecu is the fact that mercury tuned it :-/ how damaged is it going to be and how leaned out is he mixture??????

yeah got nistune ecu just using the xr6 turbo on rb25/30. just wanted to know that it fits.

will as of the end of this week or start of next y?