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newbatplay

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Everything posted by newbatplay

  1. I initally had 255 at the rear and 245 at the front but the front tyres would hit the guards going over smallish bumps so I switched them around. Most probably due to the height (245/45 has a wall height of 110mm compared to 255/40 with a wall height of 102mm). They are 17x9+22 all around and IMO they are the perfect specs for a R33 GTST if you can get them to fit. I bought the wheels with the tyres. 235/40/17 or a slightly stretched 225/45/17 wouldve been perfect
  2. Awesome! See u on Sat Phill. So pumped! I will post up an update after Saturday with photos =)
  3. Yeah...thanks for ur help...I hope a guard roll is all thats required.
  4. wow thanks for your kind offer! =) When you say the tabs are still straight, do you mean like an 'L' shape? Because mine are more like a V if you get what I mean.....
  5. Thanks Aaron The two picture of the guards was at the front. The rears are exactly the same. I thought unrolled guards sit L shape whereas mine appear to be pressed together? So the plastic inner guards are just the black plastic thing held by that bolt? Will water/dirt likely to cause me more problems? I'm located in Sydney.
  6. Hey guys, So I have purchased my dream wheels for my S2 R33 GTST recently and although it looks great and all, it isn't really fun to drive in mainly because the tyres hit against the guards when going over big speed bumps. The problem becomes worst when I have a passenger in the rear (let alone a full car load). My wheels are 17 x 9 +22 (I'm running 255/40 tyres at the front and 245/45 at the rear). The car has been lowered on cusco coilovers and the damper settings is currently on 4 out of the max 5. I do not want to invest in a camber kit/bushes (maybe in the future when I have more funds) so I am looking for a cheaper solution. I do not want to run stretched tyres. I initially thought my guards were rolled but have since been told otherwise. Can someone please tell me if my guards has been rolled or not by referring to the pics below? If they have been rolled - Will flaring of the guards solve the problem and how much flaring will I need If they are not rolled - Will rolling the guards solve the problem or do I still need to get them flared abit Any other solutions I havn't thought of? Thanks for your help guys!!!
  7. Getting my guards rolled by Philb this Saturday. Awesome person to deal with over the phone.
  8. I have been asked quite a few times for photos of the back of the wheels to show that these are genuine Rays Engineering wheels. All 4 wheels have the following embossed at the back "RAYS ENG", "MADE IN JAPAN", "17 x 9 JJ", "FORGED", "690KG VIA" Here is a pic of one of them... Mobile number - 0421 408 938
  9. Price drop to $2250. Keep the offers coming. Reasonable offers considered. Aggresive fitment without any spacers. Tyres still have chalk marks...
  10. Hey all thanks for looking, Have a set of 4 genuine black TE37 up for sale. Wheels equipped with full decals (will supply a spare pair) + rays engineering spec. sticker. "RAYS ENG" and "FORGED" embossed at the back of the wheels. No centre caps or nuts. Specs - 17 x 9 +22 - 5x114.3 Condition - No bluckles or gutter rashes at all. A few stone chips. It has minor "lightening" cracks through the paint on the wheel due to heat overtime. Only noticeable when you're 30 cm away. See photos. Tyres - Federal 595 Super Steel with 80% thread (even wear). 255/40 and 245/45 I previously had it on my R33 GTST and it sat flush. Wheels + tyres made it look really wide and aggressive (see pics). My car now sits on CE28N =) Located NSW 2177 Liverpool region. Unfortunately not willing to ship (lazy on my part). Wheels are now off and ready to go. Not willing to part. High res. photos for your perusal Price - $2500 negotiable for a quick cash sale Contact - PM me. Thanks guys.
  11. Thanks for the info guys, I will remove the intake pipe and take a photo and report back. The clamp was actually really really loose. Can't belive I overlooked that possibility =\
  12. Hey fellow SAUers, I have a R33 GTST series 2 and if you look at the picture below, its leaking what appears to be engine oil (only reason why I say that is because the colour of the substance is blackish) Is this just a matter of changing the rubber seal, and if so, can someone please shed some light on: > the technical name for the part (I didn't know what term to google/SAU search it under and I appologise if I have reposted this problem) > Do I need to go back to Nissan for an OEM replacement or will an aftermarket one do (justjap/autobarn?) > Is a DIY replacement relatively easy. It appears to be Or do I have a bigger problem on my hand? Is it normal to have engine oil filtering through the manifold in the first place? I am relatively new to the Skyline world and it has been an amazing experience thus far. Any help is greatly appreciated. Ray
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