3Katz

Thanks for the offer Scotty, I hadn't thought of welding an alloy bend to the t/b I was going to try to lobster back the stainless up to meet it. If that fails I'd definately take you up on that offer, I'm sure there are blokes here that could do it but I'd be much more confident sending it down there if you were keen. From what I can gather the police are lighter here than they are on you blokes down south with defecting modified cars but if I can change it back to stock easy enough it may make life easier in the future. With my power goals I could definately use the stocker as well - it's no 25/30, although I wish it was but I'm pretty keen to try the Q45 and have a go at fitting some 3" up to meet it. It sure is a snug fit with the huge fuse box and the battery in the way as well with these Stageas. You see other engine bays - they must be 33's or something and it seems like there's heaps of room!

Ok, finally got a bit of time to tinker again in the shed. I got the intercooler mounted, I used a 34GTR cooler and set it on an angle (by the position of the mounts I'm guessing they're mounted on an angle as standard on the GTR) and a fair way back as I wanted two things - I wanted to be able to still use my a/c fan (will be tight might have to get a smaller one yet) and I didn't want to have to cut my Dayz bar. As you can see not too much had to be removed from the reo I made some lower mounts from ally that bolted through a hole that was already in the chassis rail and let me use the lower mounts on the cooler I made some top mounts and had them welded on as I can't TIG. It looks like I'm running the risk of fatiguing the top plate on the cooler but the lower mounts actually hold the cooler very firmly, these top ones are just to stop it rocking back and forth slightly and stressing the lower mounts. I could have got away with one central mount on the top but if you look closely the bolts fit nicely into little recesses already in the reo which means my Dayz bar will sit nice and flat and not rub on the bolt heads. If I was to do it again I reckon I'd make something to weld to the inside of the reo which would allow me to use the GTR cooler standard top mounts with little rubber bushes - oh well. I fitted my manifold which went on beautifully, and just sat the turbo on the top so I could set the angle of the bearing cartridge to 20deg - which I read in an article supposedly by Garrett. Makes sense to me for thermal siphoning and also angles the oil drain slightly away from the runners on the manifold so that worked out ok. I also fitted the new Koyo radiator which again fitted easily with only a very minor trim on the lower part of the fan shroud so the plastic didn't rub on the cooling fins. I sat the inlet manifold in position so I could check out which issues I was going to have with the Q45. The manifold went on ok, had to cut a steel line which travels from behind the cam gear backing plate and send a manifold pressure/vacuum signal to the power steering pump! WTF... I'm guessing the power steering pump has some kind of valve on the back which changes the feel of the steering according to how much boost or vacuum the engine is making, maybe it makes it less twitchy when you giving a boot full? Ideas anyone? Anyway that is removed for now, I can always run a flex line later on to replace it if it's required. I sat the tb every which way and decided I'm going to try to mount it upright as it sits in the photo, it fits ok sideways with the linkages at the top and I could probably even get the throttle cable to stretch over there but I prefer the way it looks sitting right way up, I'll need to get a new throttle cable made and knock up a bracket as well. I had to make my top radiator hose out of a couple of pieces of my old lower hose which was still in good nic to clear the linkages by enough to take into account engine movement on the mounts. The next issue I have is I don't really want to cut through the top of the battery tray for my piping if I can avoid it. I'd like to go under the tray or if possible even go all the way under the chassis rail and back underneath my washer bottle. I realise through the top would be smoothest and most efficient air flow wise but I'm hoping to avoid having to cut if I can - not really sure why, but I'm going to see how it goes. To do this I need as short a t/b as I can get to start the bend early, Hypertune ones are much shorter and less bulky on the linkages as well, and the TBA ones are even shorter again. I have the Q45 already and it didn't cost me much so I'm going to shorten it by about an inch, to do that I'll have to carefully remove the water heating system including the mouldings and housing for the wax pellet, hopefully I don't hit any hidden galleries... I could tack the i/c pipework up with some stainless wire and take it in to get TIGd but I'd like to have a go myself. Buying a set up for TIG welding is confusing as I'm not sure what I even need having never done it before, I think AC/DC is out of my price range which means I won't ever be able to weld aluminium which sucks - so a good little set for small stainless jobs is what I'm after I think, more research required...

Yeah I still have to find a tuner so I'll wait and see what he reckons. The only reason I'm not using the Nismo is because I had no idea it had a decent clutch in it and had bought the NPC already. Not sure what the specs are with the Nismo but it felt great, would definately have given it a go had I known. Cheers

I had been umming and ahhing about whether or not to write things up as I go with doing a bit of work to my series II. I had decided not to as nothing I'm doing here is new or groundbreaking - everything has been done before and alot of you will have seen it all before, some many many times. I'm hoping the fact that it's all been done before will help with a recipe for success... However I've really enjoyed reading the threads here and thought what the hell. I would never have bought an import if it wasn't for the great resource that is SAU, much less pulled one to pieces to put back together again so maybe I can contribute a little as well, if not at least maybe provided some mild amusement - hopefully on not too many occasions Also being used to much less techy stuff ie carbs and natural aspiration I'm finding the hoses and wiring quite full on, hopefully I can ask some questions here and if the resident gurus pop their heads in every now and then I might get some help. This car is full of bloody hoses and electrickery. As with most projects I've started before they go through a few changes, initially I was going with an upgraded bolt on turbo, PFC and return flow cooler. This has changed and now I'm going upgraded brakes, top mount external w/g manifold, GTX 3076, FFP, GTR cooler, NPC clutch, different exhaust and the little bits and pieces that go with that. Nothing crazy and just bolt on stuff, so not a build thread by any means just a bunch of pieces to throw on. I would like to be seeing 300+kw at the wheels and will be running 98 initially and then sorting out being able to run both E85 and 98 as E85 is not that easy to come by up my way once you get out of town. One thing I haven't decided on yet is which ECU, I'm tossing up between a Link or a Vipec plug-in but will have plenty of time to decide on that later on. I realise that for my power goals I didn't have to spend money on certain items and some of things I'm doing purely just because I want to. In saying that 300kw will be nice but I will be pushing the setup as hard as I safely can which of course will have alot to do with the tuner (I don't have one of those yet either). So while I was collecting parts (some of you will recognise me as I've been a customer) I did get the brake stuff together first and finished that off some time ago. R33 GTR set up on the rear and Alcon calipers with DBA 355 disks on the front. Some pics for those that didn't see them in the 'what have you done to you stagea today thread'. I got a bit done over the weekend and pulled the box and a heap of stuff off the engine, I marked the hoses and wires as I went and although I don't understand what some of them are for I can hopefully fit them to the new system somewhere. Engine bay before: Engine bay after: (has clicked over 100k so did cam bellt, tensioner and idler pulleys, water pump and fitted adjustable cam gear) There's quite a pile here... The car had had a little bit of work done to it in Japan, has coilovers, mines ECU, exhaust a few Defi gauges and had a Nismo clutch kit in it as well. I've learn't plenty already the main ones being I reckon if you're collecting parts over a long time leave the turbo and ECU til last as something bigger/better/cheaper might pop up before you're done and if your engine work involves removing the gearbox at some stage do that first as it makes for a whole other access point for doing oil cooler lines, turbo lines etc. Besides it's a mongrel of a job so it's good to get it out the way. That is all for now until I can get back into it. As with most of us work gets in the way, then there's house stuff etc etc. I will be doing what I can when I can and hopefully it won't take too long. I'm a bit fussy and like to have everything neat and tidy so will spend extra hrs to get things just right.

Yep high temp paint is the go for sure, you can get a pretty decent finish straight out of a can.

Cool! That's good, problem solved bet you're looking forward to fitting them back on there and testing them out

Yes, good point once one piston pops out you have to get a little creative, I like to reinstall the removed piston just past the seal and then chock it up with wood, old pads, rag and G clamps - whatever you can fit in there and keep going in that manner untill all pistons are removed. Once the last piston has popped they should be easy to grab hold of and pull out, but as Daleo said if you're fortunate enough to have dust seal grooves to get a lever in then that would be perfectly fine and possibly much easier. Good point with the upside down caliper too! And obviously you must bleed both sides of an opposed piston caliper. Hope it doesn't sound like telling you to suck eggs but it sounds as though you're getting info that's not quite right from somewhere and it can't hurt to have too much help! Good luck, let us know how you go.

The easiest way I reckon is to push them out with compressed air, it may be a bit harder to do now that they're split but if they were together I'd put a block of timber in the middle of the caliper (where the disk would usually run), close the bleed nipple and carefully using an air gun put compressed air into the caliper through the hole where the fluid would usually enter. They can come out with a fair bit of force hence the timber so go easy and make sure your fingers aren't in the way... If the seals were the problem in this case with no pedal I would expect to see fluid leaking from the caliper when they were fitted up and tested. I'm not familiar with these calipers but being stock in a stock position I would expect them to be very easy to bleed. If you do give it another go and run into the same trouble a technique I sometimes use (mainly on bikes because some can be a real PITA) is to leave the caliper unbolted, do the old piece of timber between the disk pads ensuring it's at least as thick as the disk so the pistons can't pop out and hold the caliper in a position so the bleed nipple is at the very top and bleed like that. Air can be a real bitch to get out depending on the set up. That's if air is the problem, sounds like it to me but as you say it's been bled and bled. Make sure you post up what the problem was once you've solved it!

If you've clamped the lines just before the calipers and the pedal feels fine then that eliminates the master cylinder bypassing internally so the problem must be in the calipers. I can see possibly one of three things happening - 1 There is still air trapped in one or both of the calipers. (I would suggest the ABS unit might need bleeding but clamping off the calipers seems to have eliminated that) 2 There is a leaking piston or sandwich seal (in which case you should see fluid leaking externally or 3 For some reason the pistons are being pushed back into the caliper too far when the pedal is released. This can happen with excessive disk run out or a warped disk but only if the wheels are turning and it sounds like it's playing up even before you get to go for a drive. When the pedal is released the seals will 'return' the piston back into the caliper slightly but should be nothing like you are experiencing here especially with stock stuff. Strange.....

Did they beed it with a vacuum bleeder or with the pump and release method? The reason I ask is because I recently did a brake upgrade and couldn't get a good result with the vacuum bleeder. I had to bleed it up manually to get every last bit of air out even though it looked ok during the vac bleed. Being a brake shop surely they would know what they're doing but may be worth a shot, especially seeing as they recommended "bigger" lines...

For future thread crawlers like myself. As the removed filter housing from my 25NEO contains the bypass valve I asked Ryco for for some suitable replacement filters with the same seal diameter and thread as the Z145A and also had built into the filter itself an anti drain back valve and also a bypass valve. They sent me this chart with ADV meaning anti drain back valve and RV meaning pressure relieving valve. I can't comment as to whether the filters are suitable for your application but it's hopefully some useful information to consider.

Cheers guys, and for anyone else who stumbles across this thread Kudos can source an RB30 oil filter stud and post it to your door. Too easy.

Cheers guys I'll give Holden a go, if that fails - back to Nissan.

Sorry to dig up an old thread, I think the parts guy at Nissan is starting to get the shits with me making him look up old (and imported) stuff.... Does anyone happen to know the part number for the RB30 oil stud mentioned here?

He can't receive PM's but I got in touch through his website, cheers

What model was it to suit mate, 33GTR?

Nice! Did you find a lock bar that bolted straight up or did you have to do a cut and shut job on one to fit?

I have a brand new one here in the box mate, never been fitted - PM'd

PM'd

Cheers mate. I'm not sure hey, it was a while ago he helped me out with that but I think he's still about. I seem to recall he was parting out or selling a Stagea on here not too long ago.

Cheers guys, yeah I'm sure it will work well. I haven't changed the master cylinder yet as I'll see how it goes once I get out to bed them in. C34S2STAG the rears fit on really easily, had to trim the backing plate about 5mm each end of the caliper and had to find some different bolts as the brembos use a coarse thread whereas the standard Stagea bolts were fine pitch. These were off a R33 GTR so if you get the mounting bolts as well you'd be set. Another difference is the Stagea rear uses a banjo join to the caliper and the GTR uses a flared connection. You can pull the little seat out of the brembos which would then enable you to use the standard Stagea brake hose but it needed a bit of a stretch to get it to connect as it's a different orientation, I wasn't real happy with this so I got some braided lines made up with a flared end to suit the caliper. Pirtek did these for me, ADR approved too apparently. The fronts were fitted to a R34 GTR (non standard obviously) and originally came with Alcon rotors as well which were some weird size - 343mm or something.... I had trouble sourcing replacement rotors as the bolt spacing for the 2 piece rotors seemed to be different to other manufacturers as well. A big thanks to darrinspencer who put me on to the guys at Tweed Brake Service in Capalaba Brisbane, I just took a front hub, a wheel and the calpiers to them and they made up adaptor brackets and hats (which incorporated my wheel spacer so I don't need that anymore) to enable me to use a DBA 355mm two piece rotor. They made up some one piece braided lines for me as well. If anyone is the Brissy area needs work done or just want to check out some really cool stuff their workshop is awesome - full of race cars when I was there and they're building their own as well. Fatz has some good gear for sale, would have saved me some stuffing around for sure!

Had to go back 5 pages before I found a post that had anything to do with the thread title! Except for C34S2STAG, those GTR wheels look sweet btw. Thought I'd throw up some pics of the new anchors I finally got around to fitting.

Mine is sold guys, thanks.

If you can't get hold of jet2nv I have one mate I've been thinking of listing, Has a tune with standard turbo @11psi and standard injectors but obviously you'd get a tune asap. Has a small scratch on hand controller but aside from that perfect condition, comes with the extra wiring required to prevent the check engine light turning on when fitted to a Stagea - search 'secret squirrel'. Was after $850 for mine but PM me if you're interested.

To fail in 500k's it must have had a major fault in the unit. The DW300 is listed as ethanol compatible so surely they must stand by there warranty as a random dud pump, unless there was contaminants which you would have seen anyway. One of the reasons I bought mine is because I figured it would fit in the Stagea holder. I'd be interested to here how you go either way, if the new 400 is the same body size that could be a good thing.