Kryostaisis

pm sent!

you mean the turbo elbow? i have one pm me if interested

pm me have a few

keep it at 10psi, i wouldnt go any more without at least an intercooler, after the intercooler 12-13psi any more will stuff up the longevity of your turbo

you can have the fan without the hub for 50 plus postage

as topic says, i need a new afm, and mines a series 2, so i need to know whether i can use a series 1 afm for a replacement? i was told that they were different and didnt work...

Amaru your 100% right, ive been screwed over with quickfit before.. but that was the belconnen(now fyshwick) one.. those guys are wankers... tried to charge me 45 bucks each tyre to flip them, they made up an excuse saying that my tyres were too thin.. then i went to beaurepairs and they quoted me 30 each... and went to quickfit in mitchell and got it done for 15 a tyre... if anyone had ever been to the mitchell quickfit, they would know about the freindly service.. but yeah all i want to do is help out fellow skyliners

can anyone help... just wondering if the series 3 r33gtr headlights fit into the series 1 and 2 r33 gtr? ive been told the bonnets are different so does that mean the headlights a slightly different?

i know, thats why they are on sale, and hence the $200+ off each tyre The Fk452 has just been redevelopement of ST115, and is very similar to the it

no worries, will try to get back to you tomorrow, just been a bit busy with work and uni

These tyres RRP $560+ each you can pick them up in the next few days for $361each PM me if you want them and ill organise them for you

rb25 turbo... good condition... minimal shaftplay... 62XXXkms on it... 300 plus shipping (approx 30bucks)

bump anyone? i also back in the day played around with the tps and cleaned it with contact cleaner... someone please help

ok, realised something just before, i boosted it in 5th gear from 80km/h it sits at .6bar at 3000rpm, then when it reaches 4000rpm it starts to climb right to 1 bar before the end of the rev range.. i tried it again but at 70km/h in 5th gear, it sat at .6bar and started to fuel cut! any one got ideas.. need to sort this out asap what causes fuel cut

with the car off, gently move it around if you can feel any sort of friction, even the slightest bit, it will cause your fan to vibrate and become noisy. it wont harm your engine extensively, but it will put more strain on it, also your belts will experience the same thing. i had a smililar problem at 5000rpm... i replaced the fan and hub with new ones.. but in the end opted to use a thermo-fan to suit my application. oh, and make sure you check your hub, there should be 4 nuts that hold it in place. make sure they are all tight, it could be just the hub becoming loose

ok guys, just tried running the car without the boost controller(just pluming a line from the intercooler pipe to the actuator), power is smooth through most of the rev range, a slight flatspot at 6000rpm.. here is the thing, it starts boosting up till .7bar then creeps rapidly to 1.1bar and looks like it would keep climing if the revs didnt run out. i guess its not the boost controller issue, and it cant be faulty.. anyone with any ideas?

after all the trouble, and after breaking another stud(when i was spinning the bolt in with my fingers!!) ive got everything back together, there is no leaks or rough idling anymore. sorry guys about pics, was in a rush to get everything done but my boost problem is still there, now its there iff not even worse.. i tried replacing the std actuator with a adjustable N1 actuator, and it seems to have a small flatspot still, but boost still climbs, in fact it creeps from .8 bar to 1 bar still in 2nd gear, and when i change gears, it takes a long time to boost back up again.. i mean wont reach full boost for ages, and not only does it take a long time to reach full boost.... boost now then clims to 1.3bar! and no power at all, till boost drops back off to 1.0bar its really shitting me, ive tried without any boost controller aswell.. i have a few theories/ ideas 1. when i placed on the actuator with mods, ive had to shorten the actuator arm, so that there was 1mm to pull for the end of the arm to attach to the wastegate (if you guys can understand that, otherwise in other words, for there to be tension to keep the gate closed we had to shorten the actuators arm but the shortest we could go was 1mm shorter than where the actuator was supposed to attach to the gate) should i fix this? or lengthen the arm a bit further so the gate is slightly open? 2. could it be my CAS retarding timing? 3. could it be my knock sensor being damaged, which ive read to retard timing aswell 4. a stupidly big leak somewhere 5. the manual boost controller? (ive had a electronic one in there... did the same thing.... ive also tried to plum the line straight from the intercooler to the actuator... still did it... 6.something jamming the intake manifold..(dunno why and how but just a though as i remmber leaving a cloth in there and and pulling it back out after the engine was turned on) it feels like its blowing air an not doing anything about it... ive sent it to two big names in tuning and performance in canberra which i will not name.. spent large amounts of money to try and fix this problem... and it is still not fixed... can anyone help?? please PS: with the manual boost controller i think i may be faulty, i screwd it tight, which in turn should just give me stock boost... but it infact doesnt let me boost at all, and at 5000rpm boost starts to climb.. but im going to just plumb it from the pipe to actuator to check it again

what about the blitz dsbc type r, those things hold boost as if there was no tomorrow apparently.. is this so? i can see how, with their duel solenoid and all, but is it that good?

just try and clean it as much as you can with the contact cleaner, the afm is one peice, dont try to fiddle around with it or you can stuff up the AFM, try and get most of the oil and residue off it as possible, dont touch the "hotwires" at all. just spray if there is alot of oil, could be a shafted turbo, but could be just years of buildup it should fix your idling problem, i try to clean mine every few months good luck

got one pm me

loosen it more, the spring is probably set too hard, when you loosen it, give it a rev up and let the car decelerate naturally, if it hesitates loosen more

ok, ive got pics when the manifold and everything is off, and now the studs have been put in, cost 60 bucks to pull out the broken studs including new studs.. regret going to nissan to order the parts though, for 2 studs, 2 washers and 2 yokes cost 27bucks, too late to cancel so i have them left hanging around for nothing. will post pics up shortly

its 90% safe to say its your actuator, get an adjustable one, happened to me, going to get another one for my friends hiflow sr20 turbo which is doing the same thing. let you know if it is the actuator

does anyone know if the wastegate from a N1 turbo fit a standard rb25 turbo, or even a sr20 turbo?

hahah didnt realise you were form england till just now.. lol ill have a look around the shops tomorro i hope i can get the stud out, should i drill a pilot hole out then use an easy out with it? i dont know if the easy out will be enough, it might actually snap before it even moves the stud