BakemonoRicer
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Posts posted by BakemonoRicer
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12 hours ago, ActionDan said:
Continued the chat with Kelford.
Sent him pic of the retainers in question.
"It’s hard to see in those pics but that does look a little rough.Titanium retainers wear when rubbing on a steel spring and base, there’s no escaping that. But if everything is under control then it’s hard to determine “normal” wear. I’ve had some of our retainers in my evo for about 30,000kms now and it’s had a hiding and you can see witness marks from where it’s been rubbing, but nothing I would call “wear” per se.
I haven’t got a hard and fast number for you sorry mate."
Asked if there was any special service interval or checks needed etc.
"Nothing written in blood. We have some race teams that check spring tension every round and others that check every season. We don’t have failures so I haven’t got a timeline.We know what the retainer and spring have to control since we design both. Your setup is a matched combo of cams , springs, and retainers. Where some other companies have problems is that they don’t design cams or even make them at all so they try to cover too many bases with one product and then they maybe get a spring that doesn’t cut it and it’s the poor retainer that cops it."
Consensus seems to be I should be fine.
Benny I didn't go oversized valves due to the increased risk of cracking in the head, I went Supertech valves for the better materials, SS and Iconel, but standard P11 sizes. P11 specifically for the thicker/stronger stem size but put into the better flowing P12 head (which also has the extra cooling jacket in it and flows more, but that cooling jacket means if you want max margin for safety you don't oversize the valves).
It's having chambers CNC'd ports are all being ported as well so our heads are quite different. DET/VE head flow characteristics are very different stock, once ported even more so.
As for seats, standard were used in this as P12 seats are more than adequate for the application so says the builder and Kelford and that was knowing full well I was happy to spend if it needed it.
Dale hopes to collect the head today he reckons. I'm keen for some pics.
Did Dale remove the squish pads in the head?
Also, I'm not talking about my DET Build
Something else is in progress....
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Hows your $20k dry sump going mate?
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What valves seats are you using Dan? The stock ones can crack when combined with O/S valves
I will be using NASCAR valve seat rings with chromoly retainers.... definitely not titanium for my build, and no berrylium seat rings due to its incompatibility with E85
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Mick, I think Brett's passion for a responsive all-rounder is long gone...that was pretty clear when he pulled off the v-cam.
let's be realistic here.... we all know Brett loves Roll Racing & once he's spent 60k on the motor & dry sump I'm sure Brett won't want to get munched by a little 450kw+ EVO.
Hence why Brett, I'm suggesting you put a ProMod 88 on, because when you keep losing at roll racing, that's what you'll end up eventually doing. Sure, the car won't be amazing on the street....but at least you'll get to enjoy some solid 'old fella' swinging at roll racing.
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2 hours ago, r32-25t said:
I’m building a street car that I can take roll racing, not a car dedicated to winning roll racing. there’s a difference!
The only difference is turbo?
You're going to be off boost until 5,000rpm anyway....so what difference does turbo size make at this stage?
Save yourself the money - buy the biggest turbo possible - because I guarentee you won't be happy with the 6870 in a few months time....
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Brett
why keep taking stepping stones with your turbo choices
just go a pro mod 88 and be done with it
You say you’re building your car for roll racing... but a 6870 GTR is gonna get flogged by others every time
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32 minutes ago, Lithium said:
This! I was gutted when the trolling started in my original thread which ended up with it being locked, now there is near 12 years of quantity over quality to browse on the topic - I'd take an obscene bit of pride in starting the longest running technical handbag fight on the interwebs!
Lithium, the only people that seem to bicker & moan are the people that "DON'T" run EFR turbos.
The blockheads that have never used an EFR are the ones that have busted a sewer main in this thread. They just can't seem to stick within their oil spewing Precisions & big bubba Garretts threads
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Dose, a proper shop? Before you claimed your engine was NASA spec and led everyone to believe you reinvented the wheel, when in reality you blew the motor due to your bicentric throttle control and the lead weight you have for a foot. Limiter bashing is for Honda drivers m8... it’d make more sense if you put a B18C in given the 100kw might just cope with your driving style
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lol 500KW & reliable......
Go spend 100k and then tell me if you achieve reliability. Pls m8.
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1 hour ago, r32-25t said:
I thought I replied to this before and just realized that wasn’t the case
With us all our money goes into one account and I wouldn’t spend that kind of money without talking to her about it first
should be good to see what kind of difference the sequential makes, My goal is to run a 9 on drag radials (even a 9.99 would make me happy)
I’m looking forward to it all coming together and from what I’ve been told it’s not the major inconvenience everyone originally made it out to be.
One thing I did find out after paying for it is you have to use an external oil pump which wasn’t expected
so that's another 20k on the tab for dry sump?
Billet not so cheap after all, but even cast needs dry sump!!!
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Albins won’t want to know about it, it’s clearly not their casing
My advice. Sell box, buy Samsonas, be on the road quicker.....
My 2 cents
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6 minutes ago, r32-25t said:
And from what I’ve seen the new n1 blocks aren’t any where near as good as the old ones
then why don't you go RD28???? Buy a block for stuff all and make a LOT More torque
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I will pass on my quote to you once I get it Dan, but based on my head machining it was much more economical & the quality was bang on
at what power do you think a billet girdle , billet main cap and 1/2” studs are required Dan?
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40 minutes ago, r32-25t said:
And there are better engine builders in Australia and I’ll be sticking to one of them
Well let's hope you pick TRP, RD28 3.2L pls!!!!!!!!!!
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Just now, Ben C34 said:
Why overseas? Can't Australia build engines to donMega spec?
Labour costs overseas are considerably less than in Australia.
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Well, I'm happy to admit the internet was right. The stock bottom end couldn't handle the EFR or the drag head.
After an enjoyable night at roll racing, a big misfire developed and 4th cylinder spark plug is doused in oil.
Changed spark plugs & 20km's later, same issue and a misfire. I suspect a piston ring is on it's way out & haven't even bothered with a compression test. A budget rebuild was considered but after hearty chats with Piggaz/Micko, I've decided on the royal treatment. In the next few weeks the motor will be removed & will head overseas for the 2.2L treatment, we are talking Carillo Pro-H rods, CP 9.0:1 pistons w/ 0.200" wrist pins, & a billet crank. The drag head will also get refreshed with solid pivots / 270 procams/ new VCT.
And before anyone tells me my gearbox will explode.....yes, yes it will.
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mate this is why you need to get NAPREC to build your engines
they do the maths
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On 3/5/2021 at 9:00 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
Gender neutral reveal skids ready (minus motor).
@SiR_RB about 500kW at the rear, pretty much same hotside, better head set up, better cooling and a bit more balls with timing. I want it all in between 4000 to 4300 rpm and spin its mum to 9000rpm.
Paintjob looks mad.... did you take the strut towers off to do a rust repair while engine out?
E.g.
http://blog.garage-yoshida.net/wp-content/uploads/2021/02/IMG_0100.jpg
http://blog.garage-yoshida.net/wp-content/uploads/2021/02/IMG_0099.jpg
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Are you aware the CD009 will become the lowest point on the car? They hang a LOT lower than the chassis rails, just an FYI.
What you need is a Samsonas.......
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HELL YES!!!!! I can't wait to see this beast in action !!!!
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Duncan I use a billet fuel hat with AN fittings and bulkhead for wiring. Factory fuel hat belongs in bin
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I also like how everyone is getting big fuel system after everyone told me they’re not needed haha
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Surge tank needs to be 8L minimum - take this from the fuel system king.
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I've been spending a little time making some small improvements to the S15. I had the wiring for the speed controller modified with 4 Pin Deutsche plugs to handle some extra current, and fabricated 2 Brackets and mounted it adjacent the surge tank. After that, spent a little time detailing the original paint back to glass finish and finished it with Dodo Carnuba Wax.
Emptied the oil catch can which presented around 15ml worth of oil after 5,000kms of driving, thus meaning there is next to no blowby. Should have the car out at Roll Racing next month, although damn, the itch to get a Samsonas sequential is wearing me down LOL
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Borg Warner EFR Series Turbo's V 2.0
in Forced Induction Performance
Posted
I don't understand why people don't go & handpick the turbo from the shop. Inspect the thing before buying it.
Also, I strongly believe the "casting issue" turbos are bought at a discount from BW and sold on for same price by the suppliers. My 7670 from GCG has no issue whatsoever.