ZT-R

hmmm pistons look a little gummy for 34 miles.

Correct me if im wrong but the cam has "wallowed" out the cam cap tower horizontally as well. so you would have excessive end play on the cam. Might be able to weld it and machine it back down but probably would be cheaper to report a head.

Thats the only one that looks messed up, havent took out the intake cam. I dont really want to take the bottom end out and do all that shit again. but yea if you have a number 1 exhaust cap...

Probably gonna sell the car move on to bigger and better things all the while being more financially rewarding. 30grand in engines that yelid less than a cumulative milage of 14,000 is a bit absurd.

Yea I hear chan is running 3 spoon engines. lol

Heads no good. Cam ate it up pretty good. 2jz or LS7 time.

Nope, f**k an RB New head time.

Oh damn, i forgot how good this thing sounds. Sometimes i amaze myself...

Drove it home today. So much quieter engine now. Triple plate carbonetic is hella quieter than the twin disk too. wooot. Well I am pooped. Not to bad of an install time. 20 mins for the motor, an hour for the trans ( yeah r34 trans in a 240z with fuel lines in the tunnel is a bitch), wiring 20 mins. Turbo stuff, 30 mins. piping 20 mins (yea tight fit for 2 pipes haha), mid pipe and exhaust, 20 mins, 10 trips to the faucet for water 1 liter at a time...30 mins... All in all, 4 beers and a monster.

Hmmm, maybe that's why we have been having so many amber alerts. (missing children alerts, if you guys dont have those over in auzzie land).

No thats that cooling mod with the swirl tank tapped into the intake manifold. After reading more than i care to read it looks like that would be more of a return port rather than a supply. So I am going to tee into the 6an water supply for the turbo and reduce down to a 4 and daisy chain the waste gates, then weld a bung onto the upper radiator hose neck rather than weld a bung on the radiator, makes one less connection when you have to pull the motor.

Quick question guys, I have tial watercooled wastegates, so i was gonna go ahead and plumb them. Can I use this line pictured? I did the GT mod so and just have this capped off. its at the rear of the engine on the intake side. It would be much easier than teeing into the turbo water supply.

I welded up a tip that fits down on the bucket and fits between the cam lobe and the cam tower. Takes a little bit to get everything setup perfect. Just got the shed right before all this happened, otherwise i would be under my car port.

I checked those, they are all there. a haha I have no friggin idea what they are. anyway some more progress. Engine bay painted body color.

WTF are these? i found 1 in my oil pan and on in my head. They are not the oil restrictors, i checked that. i searched high and low, maybe a part of a valve spring but they look to straight to be something like that.

Robbie doesnt use them on the 1400hp engines he runs either, im sure they are an option, but im not pumping huge power. Yes i have a trap door and all that in the oil pan, ill try to post a picture later. Yes i took the crank out and polished it and hot tanked the block then when it came back i went through it quite well myself too.

Just going to put it back together and blow it up. Here I am deburring the block. I should have took more pics of this before. As far as castings go it was pretty flaky. I the corner you could drag a pick over it and get shavings/casting grit, whatever you want to call it to come off. Mains back together, everthing was mixed down to the tens of thousands and confirmed by plastiguage, just to be sure. 2-5 rods back in, kept number 6 out so i could balance the new rod to the old ones. The new rod was 4 grams heavier. Now its 0 grams heavier. Builders typically call within 4 grams "Balanced". Quick laugh using my "Specialty" dead blow. Kind of Ironic looking. Number one after 20+ mic jobs by me and double checked by 4 other machinist. we found 2 tenths of a thousdanth of taper that was it. no out of round or anything. This was the loosest. Everything elese was .00018 vs .00020, which is really what i would rather see on all of them with this big ass tomei oil pump. Number 1 rod was plastigauged every 45 degrees of rotation too, cause why not... All ring gaps where checked while at it. All good.

Been getting some pic request, so i will just post a few here.

What cams did you end up running.

Not sure. The pan is baffled with external pickup on a tomei pump modified for external pickup. I might go back to internal pickup since this happened anyway.

Yea, i just wanna be clear I'm not blaming RIPS or anything for this. Robbie has been emailing back and forth trying to figure it out.

Wanna help me source one? Im way the hell across the world

Looks like i can get a Nitto stock rb30 stroke crank for around the 4 grand range.

you can put a shim (washer) under the head of the bolt and it will back it off. Not a shim under the spring.

Anyone have the part number on a new RB30 crankshaft? is 12200-67S06- correct?