Russco

Steve, its a rapid succession of chuff-chuff type noises coming out the compressor side of the turbos that only happens on light throttle - it is running a GReddy Type R BOV that is vented to the atmosphere.

go_nuts - the tuner is having to make up a balance pipe between the 2 afms which he is doing next week, it will go back for a second attempt at tuning then, will keep you posted. In hindsight, the cost & wasted time with the Power FC was not worth it, I should have gone a Motec M600.

Of interest you can also get new ones from Petroject to suit the Z32 AFM for $24 each (just tell them its trade) - but 2nd hand VL ones are quicker to fit.

In my case I wish I got a D-Jetro instead of the normal Power FC. Apparently my combination of cams, turbos & custom intake resulted in "pulsing" of air through the AFMs making the car undriveable on light throttle settings (2 volt swings on the afms). This never would have presented a problem with a D-Jetro although my case is probably a more uncommon problem.

I only hear good things about Wiseco, particularly from guys with race bikes as well as race engine builders such as JHH Engineering?! Anyone have other comments on these pistons??

Z32 afm needed, must work - prefer Brisbane but will consider interstate. Cheers

Do you by any chance have an electric thermo fan. This could be your problem. R33vit, what dramas did you have with your thermo fan? Got one on my R32, when it kicked-in the Power FC started reading in the middle of the map, went bonkers? Is this what happened with yours? Still trying to rectify the problem.

Yes, will take some pics tonight together with measurements. I also have a Davies Craig 16 inch thermo fan for it if you're interested (fan is near new).

Got a radiator - I believe it is ex R33 GTR (fitted in my R32 GTST), very good condition $150 -I'm in Brisbane, pm if you want to look at it.

Anyone know how much a GTR aluminium bonnet weighs? Carbon is only 6kgs but very expensive ($1400 unpainted).

Thanks for the replies guys - no need to worry, I definitely will not be using synthetic oil to run-in the engine (already filled with proper run-in oil)

Yes - definitely in!

I have had conflicting opinions from different tuners as to the recommended run-in procedure for a freshly rebuilt RB26:- 1. bed in rings on a dyno, then light tune & run-in over 5000klms 2. no dyno, lock Power FC at 4500rpm & run in on street over 3000klms Both agreed on run-in oil, low boost etc however number 2 said a dyno is not a good option first up - any ideas!?

If you have an aftermarket exhaust you would be hard pressed to hear a Bosch - I wouldn't let it affect your decision to get one.

Yes, spot on - what torque settings are recommended on these?

Does anyone know if ARP head studs are supossed to be a straight fit for a GTR - had to machine the head to fit these as they were thicker in diameter!? Does this sounds right?

Mate you have pm.

bump

90mm air flow meter & plug, excellent condition $300. Brisbane

Adrian, just trying to help give Shane some practical advice not start bitching sessions! 15's was just an example (ie my old manual VL turbo piece of sh*t) - as to why everyone does over 2.0 sec 60 foot times well that could be a multitude of reasons ranging from suspension to driver skill - most Skyline's (like mine) are probably set up to go around corners more so than quarter mile sprints. Getting heat into NON-DRAG radials (wasn't referring to DRAG RADIALS) has always netted me at least .2 sec in the 60 foot & I've done a lot of runs down the quarter mile in a lot of different cars - if you seriously think you can get better 60 foot times on COLD street radials you are kidding yourself.

Adrian, great database! One thing, only reaction times 0.4 sec & over should be eligible for rankings, anything under that time earns a red-light in drag racing.

Shane, I got to disagree with some of the previous advice in relation to radials - it may be good if you're happy with 2.1 sec 60 foot times but anything over 2 sec is pretty ordinary in my book. Still heat your radials up, my rule of thumb is that if I can see any spectators behind me then I do not have enough heat in my tyres - a good burnout can easily net a 1.9sec 60 foot on just 225 x 60 x 15's! Another point I'll add is that the track at Willowbank is a LOT grippier than the street, you'll need to dial more revs into your launch otherwise it will bog. I always find street meets to be better than test-n-tunes if you're chasing good times as they are prepare the track better ie spray more VHT compounds on the track. A good starting point for the tree is to go as soon as the tree hits the last yellow (pending how well you hook up). Waiting for the green gives you a shocker reaction time!

300rwkw at least - who is doing your tuning??

Does anyone know how many rwkw a non-N1 R33 block can safely handle? I have heard they can split over certain horsepower levels - any experts out there?

Factory air flow meters, excellent condition, $200. Brisbane