nicksamaniac

I'd keep the charcoal canister, it's like 100grams and soaks up the fuel tank fumes and burns them while the engine is running, and has zero effect on hp. Sound attenuation material is heavy, inside the cabin, removing trim and that sound junk will save you some weigh.

^^^^^^^^^^ well, rb25_zenki- If that doesn't answer your manifold coolant question right there---- nothing will!

All the 30's I've opened up have had "05" or "03" stamped on top, both turbo and na, 1 engine had a mix of both numbers. if you look from the bottom they will have the Nissan logo embossed near or on the wrist pin boss.

I do agree on all thatyou just said, also overpriced for what you get. Buying the name only sometimes! It does pay to shop around too as I've found nearly all manufacturers have good stuff and junk also.

No offense intended, but you just made me lough out loud! You do realise your engine is jap built? (but I do understand what your saying)

Jpc have heaps of vids on YouTube, I've watched a few engine Dyno vids, Haven't looked up there site but to see if they specific info. I do know they build some very angry RB's.

Fyi -I have a non/pre vct head on my 30, at standard cam timing there is alot of standoff/reverberations coming out the intake at low rpm under load, and it lacked low end torque for it. I've had to dial the intake cam quite a bit to get low end torque and boost to come on lower in the rpm range. But at the expense of high rpm performance, it now falls over abit up high. I believe that Vct helps to overcome this, and helps to provide a wide power band on 1 cam profile.

I live in the Hunter valley, I'm keen as to finally meet some other Stagea drivers! Getting sick of just hearing "nice car mate, whats a stayggea?"-it's pronounced with a "silent g" there pal! would be nice to meet a person who knows what it is !

Watching. I have an rb30det in a patrol, same gearbox (internally), weighs in at 2200kg on 35" tires, so has massive drive train load. (and 240,000km old) My only upgrade was the cusion button sprung center clutch- 2100kg pressure plate. Don't have a power figures yet, but guesstimate around 200-210kw atw?

I've had this same problem with a reco head (valve grind, cleanup and surface) On the pfc it showed little-zero knock under load, and spliked to near 60 when decelerating! New lifters and all good. Back to the super smooth rb sound.

Yeah it doesn't really inspire confidence does it? Especially on the twistys when you want to power out of corners.

It needs to take air from From before the throttle but after the afm as its needs to use metered air for it to run/idle correctly.

Is it 2nd hand? You may possibly have the wrong afm setting, this will cause some crazzy running conditions. You really need a hand controller to see what all the settings are, and to see what all the feedbacks are doing.

My economy has not changed at all since doing the manual swap, only thing is its heaps better to drive and you don't have to predict what the stupid auto is going to do when excelerating.

Yes, May 11th is a great idea. I'll drive half way down the putty from Muswellbrook to meet you guys and cruise back up. Come on all you Hunter valley -Newcastle peeps, get ya Stagea's out for the day. Only ever see these Vic cruise days, bout time a closer cruise came up!

I'm loving this thread, you regular guys crack me up, love the comebacks! -You know who are

Do any of the gun tuners know if this is tune related or is it an input that causes this? I'll prob end up fitting a pfc eventually.

So it would be safe to say that the single cam "rocker" head is really the only reason why the 30's redline was 5500, So you reckon the crank, (pump particularly), rods etc will happily spin to 7000 all day? It's just I read somewhere that the 30 bottom end starts to vibrate (I assume redlining or swing out of balance) at higher than factory speed? I always just thought it was the valve gear that held it back. Same as v8 stuff.

Sweet, sounds like the rest of Nissan stuff, loves a thrash and comes back for more! I didn't shim mine as it all measured up nice and had very minimal wear. So far the running temp pressure seems to only drop down to about 25psi? Not sure what the spec is @ temp, the block itself only had 90,000km so maybe this pump is still happy. What pressure is still expected at full load and wot?

Hi all, just wondering how fast everyone has spun there Engines with a stock -unmodified rb30 bottom end? I read all these threads on failed pump gears, but they're usually related to drift or limiter bashing, And about how the gears fail. I'm using an r31 block, I've had the pump apart to inspect the gears, and they are made from steel, not like the ones I've read about being a sintered type material. It also has a reasonable amount of engagement on the crank, could be better but is about 7mm. Just really want to know how high can I set my rev limit during tuning, It doesn't need to be massive, I'd be happy with a limit of 5500-6000. As it will be tuned for massive low end torque, but would be cool if I Could rev it to 7000 if needed.

There is a switch on the pedal, but what can I plug that into? Seeing as it was an auto. Can you expand on that?

Welcome to the world of best damm sport wagon ever! And welcome to the forum.

S1 rsfour, manual converted. Only engine mods are rear resonator and big fmic. 14l/100km regardless of hwy or town driving. Pretty much 100km per 1/4 tank or 400km/tank, I always fill up at around 350km.

Forgot to mention, it stops revving as soon as the car has all but come to a complete stop, say under 1-2km/hr it will drop back to idle.

Hi all, since converting my s1 to a manual I've loved it, but for some reason- now this is very intermittently happening -it revs up to about 1500, sometimes up to 2000rpm when coming to a stop or very slow turn. This is very frustrating when trying to slow down for a turn or roundabout, and stay in 3rd gear -but it's pushing like a dozer! or you slowly pull up at the lights and it's pulling 2000rpm (and it's reasonably loud) and people are looking like what's this dude doing? I've not been able to replicate the conditions or driving techniques to make it do this, it's very random. Some days it will do it at every stop or slow turn/intersection. Other days it won't do it at all the whole drive? Sometimes it goes between this revving state and idle repeatedly while stopping (revving up and down every 1-2 secs) I can only assume it has something to do with the auto tune? Maybe it's revving slightly to maintain converter speed/pressure? (because it doesn't know any better). The only auto mod I did was bridge the neutral switch in the engine bay so it can start. Is there something I can do to the input signals to the ecu? Vehicle Speed sensor or something to fool it? Any help on this would be great? As its starting to p!ss me off!