nicksamaniac

I don't mean to put sh!t on you Ben for your comment, but- Screw the law, just paint everything matt black. Police only seem to see shiney things, they tried to get me for my alloy radiator in my Stagea but failed to see the 90 x 700 intercooler in front and all black cooler pipes! But to your question, I would suggest seeing how well your dump pipe will fit? Between the turbo and fire wall.

500Kw at least! I want to be able to lift a wheel whilst overtaking at 100km/hr! But more seriously I was just gonna put it on the Dyno and lean on it (to a safe enough level) and see what it makes.

My 4wd Stagea manual does exactly 13.5l per 100 regardless of hwy or city. My old turbo single cam rb30 patrol did pretty much 14-15 per 100, with a vl turbo tune, on 33s with 4.11 diffs.

800s because they come up cheap, New still sealed in box's for $200. If something better Sized shows up for sale I'll get them, I really only wanted bigger than stock- like 400-500cc Yeah it's in a patrol, on 35s and 6in lift so she's pretty aerodynamic! And it has 4.94 diffs. It does 2550rpm at 100km. And it weighs 2200kg, probably bit more with a full tank.

Most of you guys are getting good economy! My 25/30 is running 19/100km no matter how I drive. That's on a 25 tune @5psi. On the wideband it shows 14.5-15.8 in closed loop but gets right up to 11.1 at wot. Will hopefully get better when I get my pfc and sard 800cc fitted and tuned.

That's what I see on my wide band anyway, It will sit around 14.5-16 at cruise and up to 11.2 at wot full boost. And off scale lean under de-cel.

Just to confirm my own thoughts? Doesn't the o2 sensor only work during lean cruise? I thought the ecu only uses it at lean cruise (closed loop monitoring) where it looks for the rich or lean side of lambda. that's why it flicks around 14.5-15.5-ish back and forth as it continually looks for and aims for lambda 1. Then when you load the engine from cruise to accelerate it will give a solid afr and richen the more load increases.

Also, Superben will have something to say about searching the forum and someone will also state how they can't believe how many people buy cars that already have problems just because they're cheap. I had a chuckle at this ^ I Like how you know who the haters are, and can predict the responses!

Sorry, 63mm then? it has the Nissan emblem on the mid muffler box and on various bits I can see the Hitachi/unisia symbol. And it definitely is stainless. I also had (previously owned) a Holden hsv VS manta, and it had a pretty nicely made twin 2 1/4" stainless system. But probably only due to being a HSV model. As it had HSV embossed in big letters on the muffler boxes.

Is anybody still running a standard system? my s1 Stagea still has the Nissan exhuast on it, with whatever cat they fit during compliance. it's all 2.5" stainless and very well made, nice bends, well mounted etc. As you'd expect from Nissan! Only mod I've done is remove the "p&o cruise ship" rear muffler and fitted a 2.5"id- 4.5"od stainless eBay cannon and everyone asks if it's full after market as its reasonably loud.

Stagea97, this is a rough drawing of what I've made. I'm not really sure what the schematic symbol is for a headphone jack? But you can see I've wired to left/right and carried the shield wire through the whole circuit to eliminate noise as best I could.

This is the amp I bought from jaycar for about $15. this is an adaptor I made, 3.5mm socket to 3pin duetch plug, with shielded speaker cable. and this it on the engine, 1 pin is signal and the 2nd pin is shield/ground. I have the signal bridged to both left and right on the 3pin plug so I can hear on both sides, the adaptor will allow a 2nd sensor to be wired in, so I can run front and rear detection. On both ears independent.

Because its running 2 knock sensors I mounted it in the middle under the inlet about the same height as the original sensor location. I tried to get it close to the top of the stroke to pickup any knock. But my lifters are noisey after having the head reco'd, and the ecu was picking up false knock? (it was in r&r off boost under low to no load, and thats what led to building this tool) So it's new lifters on the list! And then go again. But I spose it can be mounted anywhere your looking for noise, failing pulley bearings or noisy gearbox, diff center? Or maybe even close to suspension components.

You'll probably find if it was set at factory boost level without the increase solenoid, you should only get 5psi max *confirmation needed, And up to 8psi @ 4500rpm and above, with the solenoid Connected. If you have your boost T in backwards, it won't work at all regardless of where you set the screw, It will boost way up to about 15-18psi then you'll get fuel cut, r&r, max out the afm etc. it will drive fine until you load it up then it will really let you know something isn't right!

It's an eye opener when you think you know your engine, you drive it daily and you can tell when something new makes noise, Then you drive for the first time with headphones on! Wow-puts a whole New aspect on things!

Just an update on this subject. I've made a "kit" I spose you could call it, out of a sr20 knock sensor,(I think?-the flat bolt through the middle type) Then I soldered a 3.5mm head phone socket to an old injector plug to connect to the sensor, bought a $15 head phone inline amp and used a 3m headphone lead to go into the cab. This is crazy good to listen to! I've never heard so many vivid and different sounds from a running engine! I'm not sure how it compares to pro level tuning tools but for $20 worth of bits and a sensor I had in the toolbox it was worth a shot to see if it worked. I can even hear oil pressure bleed off when I shut the engine off, the only thing I need is to build a bandwidth filter to dial out background engine noise to listen for knock. And some sort of volume control. But it was worth it and it works!

The kmon was the other system I was looking at, mostly due to the good price, but then thought the knocklink was maybe a good option as a permanent install. Even though it's obviously not as accurate as the kmon, and more of warning light than anything.

Just looking into knock detection tools, and was wondering what everybody uses, has used or has fitted permanent in there car, and what everyone recommends? Has any body used the link G4 knocklink as a permanent early detection?

Tdc was checked with a dial indicator when the engine was assembled, cam timing setup was done this way as part of the whole not knowing the tooth count, the engine is freshly built, the key and balancer are good. Initially I thought maybe the 30 balancer had a different key position to the 25 balancer. But as I mentioned earlier they are the same apart from belt type. The key position and marks line up when you stack them on top of each other. When its at tdc on #1 the 0' lines up with the timing cover.

Wow have they gone up in price! That's what we paid for a set in our r33 drift car, and about $1100 on top for bearings and some bits from Nissan. but this was about 2 years back.

If you use the original Nissan 5sp, (FS5R30A) and get a ppg gear set, it will take a bit of abuse! They're about $3200 for a gear set plus install and bearings etc. Lookup the ppg site, they have heaps of info on the stuff they sell.

I have a block you can have, it has oil feed/drain and hole tapped for idler bearing. Needs a rebuild as no 4# is scored, will cleanup though. It's in Muswellbrook NSW 2333, if your interested.

I do understand what your saying about deck height, but that only really applies if you moved the head (say 1mm to a 3mm head gasket) and use the same belt and tooth count. But I'm using an aftermarket belt, (gates custom length something number?) to suit rb30det mod. And this adjusts the tooth count to compensate for deck height.

When I built the motor i used standard timing covers and just cut and welded extra bits to fill the gaps, so the back plate marks are stock to the head and the oil pump notch is still the same. As its a modified engine I didn't have a tooth count to set the cam belt so I just went off the marks. rotated the crank about a zillion times (to make very sure) and on every 2nd revolution they all lined up at zero again so I know it's on the money. Ill have to hook up the consult tx-rx wires to a diagnostic port, cos this is in a patrol and it never had one! But first I'll try a plug lead. Cheers guys for the help so far!

Yeah I use the loop for pickup, and disconnect the aac and throttle switch, Thanks superben, but I need to clear this up - Deck height will make no difference at all, this is basic engineering- rules of ratio never change regardless of drive length, this is the 1st thing everyone has said to me, and it needs to be known! if it had 800cm extra deck it will still be the same ratios at the cam gears. Why will The loop wire give false readings? Isn't that the 1st coil anyway? The only ideas I can come up with is the light I have doesn't like the dwell time or is the wrong ct pickup for the system? (as in hysteresis collapse vs inductance) and that in the manual it says to put consult on and put it into test/tune check mode? Then check timing with the aac and tvs unplugged. Also when I say miles off, I mean about 35'retarded past 0' at the balancer, if I try move it to 0' it runs like a dog nearly stalls etc, same if I move it the other way, it's like it works 100% at the cas (does its job), but the balancer tells a lie! Google hasn't helped me much, that's why I'm on here.