clubracer
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Posts posted by clubracer
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Hi guys,
I have 3 sets of these left. Feedback is they work perfectly. Happy to separate the fronts/rears as the rears also work on R31's.CheersPeter -
I've been moving house, then moving house, then moving house.... yes three times in the space of two months.... but finally, it's over. My funds have been depleted but I'll start saving again to get this project finished! I did manage to buy a few goodies before the funds managed to make their way into a range of greedy and sneeky real estate agents and tradesmans' pockets though...
The Borg Warner EFR is the best off-the-shelf option for improved production, although not strictly heading down that route now, it's good for over 400hp and is T2 based so will have unreal response. So far I dont know anyone who has an EFR on an FJ20. With the compression at 9.5 it should make for a really sweet little engine. And with the standard gearbox behind hopefully it wont be too mean with a much more linear power delivery.
I also managed to pickup this GTS-R spec (I think!) diff cover which is finned, has extra capacity and come from the factory with blanked holes for cooler lines. This will get fitted once I have the diff freshened up.
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Standard firewall will remain in place. Because the 30 originally had the 6, they mounted the 4 at the same forward point meaning a heap of room between the engine and firewall. Even the hole in the tunnel for the shifter is elongated and moving the box back 175mm wont even need a new hole cut.
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Designed some solid engine mounts which will also sit the engine 175mm further back. Bolts up to all the standard mounts. Yet to FEA them to see if they're strong enough but I'm sure they will be...
Will 3D print them for test fitting before making any final adjustments to the design. Might also lower then engine 50mm if possible. Will have to wait on the new dry sump to know how low I can go.
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More progress. Initially was going to do the bay and interior grey, but ended up getting some paint mixed up to the same colour as the outside so will be painting the inside to match the outside now.
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New pistons (9.5:1) as well as gismo bearings and new timing chains have arrived. Dry sump setup is getting a few mods. Should have a new engine by the end of January! Then I can start on the smaller details and get it back together, with the aim of getting it finished by mid March.
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So finally got that rust sorted out. Just need to finish it off and get the interior and bay painted:
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I've got a guy who will be taking over my FJ20 projects, including this one. More to come I promise! Just dont have time to do this at the moment!
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Okay so probably best to get back on topic.
Had a guy come out and start on the rust that I was really struggling with. He did in 4 hours what would have taken me about 4 months. Just a few more sections to weld up then time to grind it all back and paint it up. Would love to get the whole car painted but I think for the moment it'll just be the engine bay and inside the car. -
To Dennis' defence I didn't return his calls for various reasons, so it was my fault, but I did wait for a fair while (a few weeks) for him to call me. I couldn't wait and wanted a different spec engine so I went ahead and purchased other pistons. I got busy with work and work is priority (I wish it wasn't, but something has to help pay for Skyline).
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Wow, I didn't see that coming. Am glad am not dealing with you any further Dennis. Good luck with moving on your parts.
Moving right along, am having someone with a lot more skill than myself finish off the rust repairs. Just too busy around this time to actually get anything done.
Pistons with 9.5:1 comp ratio (as opposed to the 8:1 that most rebuild kits offer) should mean it can tuned up nicely. Was considering E85 but I think it'll just run pump 98 so its easy to get.
With some helping hands the plan is to have the car on the track by March.
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Ordered new pistons today. 9.5:1 should mean some good bottom end and response. Engine should be built in January. Also purchased a steam pipe manifold for the Borg Warner EFR that I'll be using. Ideally the car will feel more like an NA car with good response, not a huge amount of power. Limiting it to 350hp as I'll be running a standard box with Kameari close ratio gear set.
Got a guy starting next week to cut out the rust that I failed to do well, and he'll give the inside and engine bay a coat of paint.
The plan is to have the car running for my birthday in March... fingers crossed.... -
Hey guys, I still have a bunch of these. I made 10 sets but it seems everyone who wanted them no longer does? Maybe they'll make the perfect Xmas gift!
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Have for sale:
Dr30 standard intercooler in exceptional condition (not a single fin dented). Perfect for a DR resto. $150Dr30 fj20 turbo and manifold. Turbo needs rebuild (shaft play) $100
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Dr30 standard intercooler in exceptional condition (not a single fin dented). Perfect for a DR resto. $150
Dr30 fj20 turbo and manifold. Turbo needs rebuild (shaft play) $100
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Apologies for the lack of updates. Work, marriage proprosals and a new house have stopped work, but coming into Xmas there will be some more updates.
Since the last update, one rear guard has been cut and the inner guard beaten to match the profile and give more clearance. Still need to do the other side.
I have purchased a nice steam pipe manifold for the new Borg Warner EFR turbo that is also coming (hopefully for Xmas).
The engine is out and will be off for a bottom end build with higher compression (9.5:1) and the head freshened up.Steering box is also out for a rebuild. While the engine is out I'm hoping to get the rolling shell off to get some of the panel work done ready to pop everything back in, in the new year.
Photos to follow soon...
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Sorry for the lack of replies on here. I've had to concentrate on other things business wise. I have given the designs for all my FJ20 related stuff to a third party for them to finish off. Will post up details soon...
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Hi there, I've just check my inbox and nothing there, please send to [email protected] - or send me a message on here.
As far as fitment on the C210 if the tie-rod-ends are the same ar the R30 then this kit could probably be used with the C210 but I have never seen a C210 front end. Could you send me photos of the tie rod end along with some measurements? -
Hi guys, these are available now! I have 6 sets of front and rears left. The rears will also do the R31.
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It's been a while since my last update. Unfortunately nothing has changed. I have been helping my partner on weekends for the last 6 odd weeks. I've managed to get my TIG welder up and running in that time and bought material to fix the rust. I've also been doing a lot of CAD work for my side business.
One thing I have decided to do is to only half build the car to IPRA regs. I want to build a nice little 350 - 400hp engine. I can do this really easily without a 36mm restrictor, so although the engine will not be to full IPRA spec, I can always throw a restrictor on there to have a run if I want to. With the interior, the rules state that I have t keep all the standard trim below the windows and above the floor. My interior is tatty, and while it's a race car, I still want it to look nice, so I'll keep the interior to one side and just run some nice carbon door cards. While I'm at it I'm going to put the doors with their heavy electric windows to one side and get another set of doors that I can cut up and stick some lexan in. I think the doors and glass will save me close to 50kg...The next thing is the wheels. 15x8 is what I have to run in IPRA. I like bigger wheels, and I'm have designed my own to suit the car. I want to use the car to promote some of my design work and engineering, and IPRA wont give me much I can do, so get ready for something a bit different.
So I'll be back on the car as of Sunday. The plan is to get the engine out and get the rust sorted before I head overseas for the 2nd half of September. Once that's done the fun starts...
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Hi guys,
I'll have more details on this kit soon, including a price without coils or sensors, and I'll also have images of the trigger fitted to the pulley. I'm also designing a stand alone pulley that incorporates the trigger wheel and also a dry sump gilmer drive so those wanting to get a bit more serious. Weight will be the same as stock to keep the balance correct.
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The bearings have finally arrived and they were worth the wait. You will never get a kit like this with these motorsport spec bearings at this price. These spec bearings alone are RRP $180 a pair - just ask anyone who has had to build a race car before and had to spend thousands alone on bearings!
I have a few sets left so please visit the website and make your purchase for the complete kit, front or rear alone.
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If you're running the D2 pads (I used to distribute them) you'll find they don't last a very long time. As dar as budget set-ups go I dont think they can be beaten. Best thing you can do to them is throw a set of Project Mu HC+ at them. We found them to work incredibly well with the D2 setup. You'll never look back.
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Hi guys,
After speaking with PWR they are recommending using a crow-flow radiator as it will give another 15% cooling. The downside is then riding new hoses to fit as the fittings will move and the top won't have the L bend.
Is anyone keen on one of these?
If not I'll just get one built to my needs only!
Cheers
Hr31 Coupe Rb26 (For Now)
in Motorsport Builds
Posted
Want!