odessy

Actually I might leave the oil as it was done very recently. Going to do the gearbox and diff oils though when I get a weekend off. Is it bad to change these and just let it sit?

If I redo the oil now should I redo it when it comes time to drive it again? Fuel tank is pretty empty.

Read an old thread that people had said they had gotten a new inner put in the cable for around $50? Where would I get this done or are there aftermarket items? Nissan charges a few limbs to get a genuine one.

Got a set of 17" v35 rims, think they are around the 17x8 + 30ish off my r32. 2 have 90% tread (225/45r17 I think). and the other 2 are shagged, marks on all rims like in the picture. $350 Ono. Got an old set of Bilstein coilovers for an r32 gtr/gts4,need a rebuild. I had priced up seals and 1 new shaft plus install at a bike shock store for around $500. Springs have been removed and ready to send off, everything is there to go back. $250 ono. Located in Brisbane. The wheels will be off the car next week when my new set arrives. Not too fussed if the coilovers don't sell as I will just rebuild and use them when I get around to it. Contact: Blake 0409573571 or PM.

I have got a 32 but no longer have a licence to drive it. Car will be unregistered for 7 months until I get it back. I have only just purchased it with 120 on the clock. I want to change the diff's (gts4), gearbox, engine oils and engine coolant before re-registering it. Am I better off waiting until just before I re-register to do all this, can I start now or is it not going to make much difference? The car will be started weekly with a possible sneaky lap around the block.

Learn to do most things yourself can save you a lot of dollars in the end. With the vast amount of information, instructionals and repair manuals at your disposal self learning is quite possible.

UQ

Wasn't a whole lot of info on the website but I think the cadetships are for a specific Uni? Applied anyway. Anyone else with suggestions?

Thanks!

Old thread. Anyone play? Was just playing at a mates and thinking of subscribing, got a logitech wheel here somewhere I think. Not a g27 though.

I have been at mcdonalds for 6 years lol, I am about ready to burn that shit to the ground.

It's time to start looking for some work placement for the end of the year and I really want to get a job that is related to the automovotive industry. Specifically I am not really fussed. I live in Brisbane and am In my 3rd year of studies at the moment but I don't mind looking for a job anywhere in Australia or even internationally. Any sugggestions? I was not sure where to post this so I figured this section would do.

Got around to pulling my coilovers down and am going to need to do the top oil shaft guide/seal the bottom divider seal and one of the shafts are bent. May aswell replace the teflon around valve too. Does anyone know where I can get the seals from? I have found one place but they don't have everything I need...

Probably better to spend the money on a new rather than second hand. Seems to be a pretty common problem and saves having to do it again when your second hand one breaks.

Does anyone do them besides Nissan? They can be quite expensive for what they are.

I don't know why I linked you back to this topic lol. I had found a post on it with lots of idea.

I didn't want to go below stock boost. I was just wondering if I had to adjust the MBC in small increments or just wind it right back and it wouldn't go below stock.

Coilovers aren't going to change the lock... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/402940-r32-suspension-hunting-more-lock/

http://tiny.cc/qxy6fw

Oh, nah it's only when I open the throttle right up. Slow acceleration doesnt give any. Every time I think of "big turbo" it reminds me of my ex who pointed to the cannon on the back of a white wrx and says "Look at its big turbo". . Atleast after all this f-around I have learnt about timing, the CAS and a few other things. Much thanks to all, stay tuned for my next section on how to stress ones self out.

So it would appear I have spent the last few days stressing over what could possibly be nothing. I win at life.... Atleast now I can focus on this stupid thermodynamics test.

^ that sounds a little relieving although I will probably get a timing light or get it checked just to be sure. What about the idle, shouldn't it be down around 650rpm? I might get some tape and put it over the front over front of the gauge to black out the word drift .

Just took this now after letting the car warm up and with it parked in the garage and turning the MBC right down. Also the idle sits just below 1000rpm, should it be this high?

Yeah he didn't say it was tuned at this boost but I found an old dyno sheet that said it was done at 15psi and I was unsure if the fuel map could be changed at all on the stock ecu. I'll keep the mbc because I will up it once I have gotten used to the car. Should I reset the ECU once I have turned the boost right down? Will the boost ever go below stock or is this not possible without changing the wastegate spring (i.e. running the mbc turned right down will be close to the same as not running at all, will not drop below stock boost.)

If I turn the manual boost controller to minimum(completely loosen it/anti clockwise?) should it run pretty close to stock boost? I.e. The valve in the mbc will release at low boost and the boost I make just be governed by the wastegate? If the previous owner has had it turned up to 15psi and had it tuned and I turn it down can I be causing it problems. Run too rich? Just using the stock ECU. Should/can I reset the ECU? I don't like learning others settings and would rather start as close to stock as possible and adjust things as I require more power.