MidnightGTR

Its a long story but from the start it has been down on power but theres always excuses as to why its not going like it should. Its only just recently started running worse and doing this crazy shit so its hard to say.

For starters ill start with the main mods. RS580 turbos (similar n1 spec), PFC, sard 700cc's, bosch 044 intank, 100mm cooler, turbos back exhaust, PFC, AVCR, RB20 80mm afm's. I recently had my car dyno tuned and it made about 230kw at all 4 at 17psi (weak I know) and they basically just told me it wasnt making power because of the boost controller and how they are useless. They said gtrs with just some pods, exhaust and pfc running 1bar generally make that or more with standard everything else. I just had it back on the dyno the other week and now im told there is a restriction somewhere, like a boost leak maybe, said it could be a ton of things, including bov's leaking, cat melted down and blocking airflow etc. The engine is fine and has perfect compression and no noises etc I know the car is definatly down on power because the car doesnt feel much quicker then what it was stock, and for the money ive spent it should be heaps quicker. Week by week it actually feels like its losing power Just lately its been playing up doing things like; - hunts on idle occasionally - wont boost over 0.3bar sometimes, sometimes it will - and just recently it started surging very slightly at low speeds off boost just accelerating normally, but today I went to take off and it surged badly, tried to accelerate a little it just wasnt going. Next im getting rid of the bovs for a single greddy type s incase they are leaking, and "high flowing" the cat abit more. If those 2 things dont fix it then im going to have to get my mechanic to start pulling it to bits and double checking everything till we find the problem. My question is has anyone had any experiences with these symptons and what are the likely things (things to check for first) if I have to start pulling it apart. Thanks for any advice

Id rather just have to replace the window after a break in then find my car missing

I seen a picture awhile ago of a lock that clipped around the gearbox shifter, I assume so people cant change gears if they try stealing it by actually driving it away. Does anyone know if they are any good and where I could source one from?

from what ive read in the past you will need some sort of balance pipe between the 2 turbos for something or other. I dont read in detail, just take in the basics Means your going to have to remove your turbos though, which is a pain in the ass or costly if your paying someone else. Good luck anyhow

Im over the drag racing thing so I put a pair of N1's on more for the street. I miss the big topend kick they give though And your right they are cheap, im losing a -good- few hundred on these

I have 2 genuine HKS 2540's for sale. Used them for about a year and were as new when I put them on. Perfect condition. Good for 700hp+ Fit straight onto standard rb26 manifold. $3000 for pair FIRM. no offers. Can send interstate at buyers expense. [email protected] - turbos in brisbane welcome to inspect. Brett *Update - Sold now, thanks

I think that guy runs a few porn sites, my brothers wife used to work for him if its the same dood, hes got enough money to replace it anyway

I also thought 270kw atw at least would be what it should be making.. When I had the 2540's they adjusted the cam gears to try get them to spool as early as they could, and when I put the n1's off the power did drop off alot at the top end but it definatly wasnt the boost dropping, so I figured it was the cam gears set incorrectly for the new turbos. You would think apc would check the basics like cam gears and timing, but you never know accidents do happen and things can slip peoples minds I guess, is would say the timing is correct but they could have just forgotten about the cam gears all together. Im not sure what the gears are set on at the moment but tomorrow ill take note and change them back to 0/0 and see if it makes much of a difference. Ill take it to another workshop sat morning and see if they can have a quick look over it and see what could be wrong, but the power does seem to be down alot on what it should be. Cant really do much for awhile anyway as apc have packed up and gone down to sydney apparently.

What 1/4mile time would I expect with that power, maybe a mid 12? it seems alot of money to me for half a second off when I ran a 13.2 in it dead stock. I used to run HKS 2540's at 14 psi and the car made 351rwhp (260rwkw) back then, with the standard intercooler and front pipes. How can I get the same (if not less) power after adding a 100mm cooler, more free flowing exhaust, and nismo turbos at 17psi that spool 2000rpm earlier?

Just got my car back from APC after getting a dyno tune. My car is a 33 GTR, mods as follows: Nismo RS580 turbos (300hp) Apexi powerfc Custom 3" exhaust system (only twin 2 1/2" front pipes though) 100mm intercooler core HKS cam gears 700cc injectors 044 pump (intank) Avcr boost controller. K&N pod filters RB20/25 air flow meters. Result: 315hp at all 4 (235kw) at 17psi :thumbdwn: Whats a stock gtr have at all 4? 180kw? 35kw more seems a little less for the work done. To me the car doesnt feel like it had 1kw more then what it did when I dropped it off. Personally i was expecting around 280-300kw at all 4, fair enough if it was 270kw or so but to me 315hp sounds pretty low for the mods it has, its about 40 more rwkw then what my gtst had with standard turbo, ecu, fuel, nothing basically. Nothing compared to the money ive spent on my gtr anyway. Basically they said the boost controller takes too long to get the boost, then it dies off early and doesnt hold it, it has full boost maybe abit after 5000rpm and holds boost good (which I thought was normal for these turbos) it doesnt drop off from my experience driving it. They suggested I buy one of their turbosmart E-Boost thingys but I cant see that getting the power up to what I thought it should be. Does this sound right and if so what should I change (minor money, as im basically over this thing now) to try get the power up alittle, im thinking 3" front pipes and a cold air setup, but I cant see that adding a real lot either. If it doesnt who would you recommend on the southside I could take alook at the tune for a second opinion. Cheers

yeah I had that idea too. I think they a motec / autronic boys, think they said they can do PFC's just to get some money out of me. The chick who answered the phone didnt even ask me what sort of computer I got to get tuned, so I said its an apexi powerfc and she was like "oh..." and paused for a sec. Think I might be cancelling that booking.

my mum lives in woodate so you might see my purple 33gtr driving around childers/bundy easter long weekend as im going up to see her

Anyone had any experience with these guys tuning PFC's? I got my car booked in but they only tune with the hand controller and didnt even know about the datalogit software. Ive read a few posts and some people have said some bad things then taken them back and said they're ok?? Has anyone had their powerfc tuned there, what did it end up costing, are you happy with the results? pm me if you dont really want to reply in public.

some women are just useless drivers fullstop. if they cant drive for peanuts, dont let em drive your car, end of story.

mind sending us a pic of the bov? bjrose (@) optusnet.net.au

not really. My first series 1 33 gtst had a full exhaust, pod filter + cai, frontmount, clutch, 14psi on a bleed valve, made 200.1rwkw on APC's dyno and I ran a 13.3 in it once, mind you the rest were mid to high 13's but it is possible with stock ecu, fuel, turbo...

only the 34 N1's are ball bearing. rest are ceramic but still can boost them over 1 bar if that helps

I know some people have made their own torque convertors a few ways, like i saw one car with a little dial with 1-10 for the different amounts of torque to the front. First off I know nothing of eletronics, from my understanding it tricks the little controller near the handbrake into reading different amounts of volts into the unit, I think it was lowering the volts so much added a certain % to the front. What I want to know is there a way you could hook up a switch so it sends a steady signal, or even disables it somewhat so it doesnt change and just runs in rear wheel drive constantly? I know you can buy units from greenline etc for about $400 but I dont want permant 4wd, or all the fancy shit, just want to be able to switch from normal into rwd from incabin. My gtr is a 33 so its not a case of pulling a fuse

Factory R33 GTR cooler. Black model, good for those who dont want the attention. Good for 300+rwkw on a GTR, selling due to upgrade to 100mm core. $450ono Prefer a brisbane buyer, dont know how much freight would be on it though. Thanks, Brett bjrose at optusnet.net.au

Hey shannon Brett here. hows that pulsar going Just off the top of my head a few other cheapish ideas could be window tinting? apexi pen style turbo timer they are pretty cheap like $50 I think, clear indicator lights, gear knob? boost guage if he doesnt already have one? new pod filter is a good idea too though, the apexi and K&N ones are prob best, apexi has real good airflow and still filters real well too. let us know if you need any help

z32's have orange labels i think? cant remember what colour my standard gtr ones had. gtr afms are 65mm and z32s are 80mm, rb20/25 afms are also 80mm too you will just have to get the colour of the label or part number

how do you know its not just a standard rb26 with a changed cover and turbos? 34's have the red covers. if anything Id say its from a 32 looking at the ware on it but who knows with serial numbers

All bits off my R33 GTR. Prices are firm, no time wasters thanks. 2x Genuine HKS GT2540's, 350hp EACH. Huge lowmount twin setup, bolt straight up to your standard manifold. $3200 pair delivered AUST wide. 2x Blitz SUS intake pods; $70 ea. 2x Factory dump pipes. $45 ea 1x Factory front pipes (Y Piece to join from dumps to the cat) $70 2x Factory cam gears. $45 ea EOI: Im getting a new intercooler done this wednesday (9th March) so my stocker will be available after that date. $400 brett at stunt101.org

make sure you got it setup for internal wastgates not external, I know you said its in right but check the manual and double check your settings. I dont know which way its setup using the factory hoses, we ran new ones and mounted the solenoid near the filters to keep the hose length short.