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WTB haltech platinum pro Suit r32 gtr rb26 Ideally wanted with eflex and map sensor Brisbane Please call text me \ craig 0415750747

WTB located Brisbane r32 gtr branded intercooler eg trust , bltiz , greedy , pwr etc Full E85 fuel setup eg injectors , pumps , lines etc Phone 0415750747

Thanks guys ill pass on the ebay coolers and save and hunt for a cool one what brands are recommended : trust, hks , plazmaman , tomei ???? any others ive had the turbo brand new in the box for about 5 years now and never put it on my gtr in NZ cause ive moved over here! I got used to the power of the GT35R running 20-22 psi what is bad about the garret to4z??? - i dont think ill mind the lag and id like the power coming on hard

the female thread in the filter head and plate on the block are m16 1.5, the ID of the male fitting that go into this tread must be around 11-12mm? ( can measure in a day or 2 ) would this be too small as well??? Should i just go AN12 with the larger lines to suit the whole way???? ( looking at getting a large oil accumulator soon too ) thanks in advance once again!

hi skyliners im looking at getting a intercooler for my gtr I will be running soon a garret t04z with as much boost as 98 ron can get me with a good tune I current looking at starting off with a 2nd hand autobahn88 100mm thick or KLS power spirit 120mm thick. I currently have the stock gtr cooler with a GT35r turbo 20psi what are you guys thoughts ? are theses ebay coolers not worth touching?? eventually i might get a trust or GOOD branded cooler just thinking i can get these coolers for cheap so why not?? cheers

rb26 oiling question i recent brought over my oil cooler and lines from my gtr in NZ ( in my suitcase lol ) for my gtr here it already had a remote oil filter kit, i didnt pay to much attention and the remote kit was dash 10 lines and fittings and the oil cooler was dash 12. i had to get a custom 45degree fitting made up to use a reducer just on the remote filter head to make it all fit! been in the car now about 700kms and oil pressure is good \ normal ( stock gauge ) but i was concerned about the flow restriction of the custom made fitting by a hydraulic mob i can fit a threaded M8 bolt in the hole with about a extra 0.5mm either side . i drive it hard have a gt35r and going to a to4z. the dash 10 fittings into the block and filter head have a small restriction as well but not that small. Do you guys think this is too small??? as we all know rb's love thier oil.

you after a stock one???

ill be selling a genuine garret GT35R mint condition in a couple of weeks pm if keen

Hi all Im from brisbane and after a few parts will pay postage if a good price WTB to suit a R32 gtr 2.6L *cylinder head don't need cams, cam gears , rocker covers etc possibly with out valves or valve springs ( my had cracked ) *rear aftermarket diff has to be 1.5 way mechanical *Aftermarket intercooler upgrade from stock * air con condensor * rear vision mirror *engine stone guard *NOS kit *new arp head studs * adjustable caster \ radius rod arms ( branded )

hi there are you interested in selling the head cheap maybe? 0432922487

hey skyliners after a fun and solid 8,000kms of giving my GTR absolute death I have came across my first issue, seems like wiring or a sensor its intermittent fault some times it runs fine some time I almost cant take off from the lights it feel like the fuel is being completely cut ( may also be the whole ignition ) most the time it happens when starting off in 1st gear , but the old time is happens crusing at 80 \ 100kms, its only under vacuum it is fine when boosting. I have noticed the black rich stain on rear bumper I used to get has almost gone to me it saying Im running leaner??? its seem to idle fine when im experiencing this issue I tested air flow meters ( when fault was occurring ) and they tested fine, tried to wiggle plug and wires going to afm to see if was that and still tested good, the single turbo was close to the loom and would of cooked the wiring but the plastic doesn't appear to be melted at all, - I put a turbo beanie on it which has helped a lot from keeping the heat to the wires going to afm etc tried a couple of different cas's and adjusting timing - + 5 degree but no difference , Inspect the 044 I put into the tank and its still solid in there and everything looks fine, I went over all the hose clamps I could see to check for air leaks but all appeared tight as can be, a couple of months ago I set tps to correct setting ( was way out) when to check ecu fault code and learnt the pfc doesn't have screw thingy and a led. I check fuel pressure and its good ( have checked when fault is occurring tho) im getting my to4z and link ecu that sitting around in nz for my gtr over there and going to get it tuned with a map sensor and get cam gears adjusted in a couple of weeks. I have been neglecting to drive it lately cause of concern its running lean! to me its an afm or fuel pump issue relay ( can a o44 run ok of standard wiring and relays, hidden vacuum leak, I think its odd how it idles ok and doesn't cut out under boost, any suggestion would be greatly appreciated

I st my gtt back in nz to 16-17 psi and after 15,000kms it did a turbo bearing and through the exhaust compressor blades into the exhaust pipe drifting on a cold motor :S replaced it with a r33 turbo and dropped it to 14-15 psi and from what ive heard still going strong

yes you were right put 245 all round 4wd read 0 as all my other gtr and my old gts4 did!! rims sizes turned out to be 9.5" and 10" but you still see the different stretch even with 245 40 18 tyres , im running 35psi in the front and 40 psi in rear . only have 2mm guard clearance in the rear tho thanks blind_elk you were on the money!! also to everyone else ps torque meter reads dead zero when cruising and under light-med acceleration unlike before - major difference!! so now my rwd switch is not always on = less fun & better power to the ground

cant load my photos of white gtr error403 ??

I have 2 gtr's in im paraparaum NZ (gun metal grey) after dropping a valve guide that ive spent $15000 on ( and the motor is wrapped up on a engine stand in a lock up next to it havnt put it back in after the rebuild) ive got my white gtr that I brought a few months ago in brissy that's fully forged and all the work has already been done my white aussie gtr mods are as follows: OS Giken twin plate clutch split fire coil packs 700cc Siemens injectors 044 bosch pump power FC turbo smart EBoost 2 controller oil filter relocation kit PPG gears in first second and third block decked, bored out.040" and honed, cp pistons and rings, spool rods, ACL race bearings, R33 GTR crank with long nose oil drive, N1 oil pump, Tomei Sump baffle kit, head decked, valves refaced and lapped, Tomei type B poncams, Tomei adjustable cam gears, cylinder head rear oil return, cometic steel head gasket and exhaust/intake gaskets Garrett GT35 R turbo, top mount manifold, turbo smart 45mm external waste gate 14 psi spring setup. Greddy intake kit, K&N pod filters, custom intake and dump piping with waste gate plumbed back into exhaust, sard FPR the best thing is I paid $13k for above gtr

my stock gtr in nz before rebuild with a mines plug in ecu pods and exhaust on 16psi stock turbos was 291rwkw!!! from what I can gather for my turbo and pump gas I might as well keep power fc and air flow meters get a GOOD tune for 22psi , would putting my link and to4z make a BIG difference still running on pump gas?? or is the power from 22 psi on my gt35 almost the same if I would run the t04z cause im limited by 98 petrol??

interesting *I thought the garret turbo chargers could handle 30-40 psi easy?? what gives away- shaft? compressor \ exhaust wheels? bearings? seals? or can the turbo handle it just it runs out of efficiency and starts to cook the air??? *I would of thought the ecu would compensate for the extra 3psi and increase the fuel a lil bit and I would get even more power gain if it was tuned for 20 psi?? or could I be starting to lean out ??? *so what I can gather from the 2 comments above reguardless of the ecu \ tune I cant ( shouldn't ) go over 20psi. what you recon the max boost the turbo can handle and the max the fuel is able to handle??? 30-35psi I agree was wishful thinking I do have a brand new Garret TO4Z in NZ that I might send over with the link. I have a friend "GTRPWR" running a to4z on 98 pump gas pretty sure he is making 500kw at wheels Thanks heaps for the feedback scotty, paul and wmdc35 , ill turn down boost right now to 17 ish

just found this but still peoples opinions would be choice as!: This is from Sydneykid Rule of thumb for Air Flow meters RWKW & Engine BHP ------ ---- OD ---- RWKW ---- RWKW ---- BHP ------ BHP No of AFM's ---- ------- 1 -------- 2 -------- 1 -------- 2 RB26 ------ 65 ------ 149 ------ 299 ------ 271 ------ 474 RB20/25 --- 80 ------ 226 ------ 453 ------ 376 ------ 683 Z32 ------- 80 ------ 255 ------ 511 ------ 415 ------ 763 Q45 ------- 90 ------ 302 ------ 605 ------ 479 ------ 890 Posted 20 February 2005 - 11:31 AM

Hi there skyliners I searched but failed - so hopefully I can get a couple of opinions I want to run the highest safe boost I can im pretty sure im being let down by the stock air flow meters and pfc, I have a map sensor and link on is on its was but probably wont put it in for a month or 2 when ill get it tuned My r32 gtr came with a recent rebuilt forged motor, garret gt35r turbo , tomei cams & gears ,700cc injectors, old power fc tuned by Godzilla motorsport, sard reg , stock intercooler & piping, spitfire coils, and a few other mods, ive recently put a 044 in the tank, since ive had it ive noticed on boost it blows black smoke (quickly stains up rear bumper heavily) and fouls plugs fairly quickly, I read in a thread when searching for info that you can over tune air flow meters is this true?? maybe this is why im running so rich??? ***Ive recently up'd boost to 20psi still running pfc -( which was tuned to 17 psi apparently but I noticed boost controller wasn't plumbed correctly on waste gate & solenoid ) and has stock air flow meters. - would this be suitable for a couple of months or do you recon im push the stock air flow meters to far??? ***Secondly once link G4 ecu and map sensor is in what is the max boost you can run on general 98 octane petrol ??? I know the tuner will play a big part in this but whats peoples opinions I was hoping about 30-35 psi??? I don't want to run e85 Cheers and thanks in Advance Craig

my gts4 I had ages ago had knock sensor code come up every now and then , ignored it as it ran pretty good and then I had to rebuild the motor due to no1 piston melted. -was running lean I replaced one on a different gtst when replacing the cracked head here a photo to show ya where they are:

link g4 plug has the best reputation I know of. I paid $1600 NZ for it when I lived in nz 2 years ago when they were fairly new , im robbing it from my GTR in nz getting it sent over to replace the power fc in my gtr over here. I hear haltech are good to im new to power fc's but not sure if power fc are ultra crap and or Godzilla motorsport cant tune gtr's. I cant wait for link and new tune for a smooth running, smooth idling, non plug fowling, non bumper staining gtr question: -with power fc what sensors does it use\support\output??: tps , cold start, idle valve , air con , factory thermo fan , air temp , knock sensors, map sensors, fault diagnostic's ?? -in Brisbane who is a recommended tuner to get good reliable power and smooth running daily driven car??? PS ill have a power fc for sale soon haha

I had the same prob with a gold gtst I brought with a top mount to4e but it would do it more often that your issue everytime stopping at the lights!!, tried \ by passed everything!! : coils ,iac valve , vac leaks, fuel issues, ecu , pcv valve, no bov , new bov, timing , even setting idle to 1500rpm, air flow meter , checked cam belt ,correcting the tps helped , worked out it was : "reverberation " where the air flow meter was too close to the turbo I spaced it out with coiled induction pipe and problem solved I was planning on mounting air flow meter and pod where the stock cooler was for cold air intake and help with stalling issue , I didn't believe it could be the issue but it was. my gtr with gt35 does it a lil bit but hardly ever, iac doesn't work would help mine map sensor would also fix it if above is no the issue try check for vac leaks again and block off the pcv valve and the other pipe going to before the turbo, vent rockers to atmosphere, unplug idle valve and set idle manually to 1000-1200rpm to rule out a few possible faulty parts \ issues

Quick question installing 044 pump today is the factory lil reg looking thing a one way valve or do I need to fit an aftermarket one that attaches to fittings ???

I did it to my r34 gtt but I used the relay to kick in my electric rad fan relay ( aftermarket fan which ive done to many r32s aswell) QUESTION: Will the fan get "burnt out" slowly wear out if the fans are turned on at speed ( 80-200kms) or would the wind speed going 200k on a "track" be nowhere close to the electric fan speed??? note extra fan is mount horribly through the rad core cheers

Thanks for above comments I agree with no preload and should read around 0 when crusieing at 100k Also makes sense about 235 stretched on 10" rims personally I got the car like that and have been destroying the tread to get better tyres as they are a shit compound and I'd perfer stock gtr r32 rims or after r34 gtr rims bbs rims with gold don't do it for me despite what my mates recon thru are worth and how awesome they recon they look !! Factory gtr rims here I come !!!