Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys,

this thread is targeted at people that own/have experience with power fc's...

i have a PFC Pro installed on my s13 running RB25DET... now i am sure that all PFC "PRO" models have L/C ... this should be found by selecting "REV LIMIT" and then hitting the "NEXT" button...

but when i try to get to it, it simply doesnt work... i press "NEXT" , arrow right and all possible keys (that i know of ) and nothing happens...

What am I doing wrong now??

here is a pict taken of my installed and running PFC...

thanks in advance

post-20771-1136862143.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101353-power-fc-pro/
Share on other sites

did that paul... it just didnt work... i have read in a few forums that this is the way to do it... but the solution is/was so simply that it hurts my brain :P

it's the one below engine REV -the one set to 4000- :) - silly huh?

i have no idea whether this is normal for the PFC to have it displayed there, but this is where its on mine... i changed it down to 2000 rpm just to be on the safe side, and it kept the revs on 2000 ... no clue WTF those silly japanese call it A/C ?? ;)

anyway, thats the solution and it sounds ILL !!! :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101353-power-fc-pro/#findComment-1869747
Share on other sites

the FC A/C and FC A/C (both of them) are idle settings used for when the A/C is on in the car. Each setting is for voltage load and no voltage load ie: lights on and demister. Those settings on the normal FC are 1100 and 1000 respectively so that the idle is slightly higher when you have the aircon and lights on etc.

So I'm wondering if the Pro version simply just has the aircon switch always on, what does it show under SENSOR/ SW CHECK ? How do you select when this "alternate" idle setting is active instead of the normal 700RPM idle?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101353-power-fc-pro/#findComment-1869779
Share on other sites

no problems. thanks. i guess they just wanted to add that feature with as little as effort as possible. would have been helpful if they had of renamed the menu item. so how do you select when the higher idle is to be active ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101353-power-fc-pro/#findComment-1869797
Share on other sites

this is more simple... its just by the IDLE A/C off/on ... there i can choose what revs i want the car to idle when warm...

but since i have the RB25 wired in my s13, i made a compromise between when A/C is ON or OFF because i skipped the ECU when wiring the A/C... so currently i am happy with 870 as idle...

nico

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101353-power-fc-pro/#findComment-1869819
Share on other sites

normal fc users cant set the fc a/c on/off values higher but with datalogit they can. i will test some time this week if the same functionality is achieved by editing the rpm value with datalogit and then manually activating the aircon relay without turning the aircon on

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101353-power-fc-pro/#findComment-1869848
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
×
×
  • Create New...