Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I haven't reallly had a chance to have a good look under the wagon (no garage or driveway) until today. I was just adjusting my side skirt to make it fit a bit better, and stuck my head under the car for a good look.

Everything is really clean, no damage, scratches, etc. Then had a look at my exhaust.

It look like it is 3" all the way along. Is this standard? I know it has a NISMO rear muffler, so was wondering if the Japanese owner also replaced the system.

It doesn't look new, and it looks professionally done (ie no crappy welds).

Any ideas?

P.S. When I bought it it did feel a little more responsive than the other Stageas I tested. Could this be why?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103581-quick-question/
Share on other sites

2.5 is stock. And stock unit will prolly have 'calsonic' stamped on it somewhere.

Also the stock unit will have three rubber weights attached at various points along the length of the pipe to help eliminate vibrations.

So if it is 3' with no harmonic balancers, then it def aftermarket, and will do lots for your power.

Check the dump pipe leading up to the cat - is it a different size?

If the same, the you're in luck and someones done the expensive work for you.

If not the same - ie the front half upto the cat is 2.5 inch then getting this enlarged along with a 3' cat will do even more for your mid range grunt.

P.S If the exhaust is stock it will be so quiet, at some stage since buying it, you will have tried to start it only to find the engine is alread running.

Edited by 3intheBack
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103581-quick-question/#findComment-1905152
Share on other sites

No rubber weights anywhere on the exhaust, some on the back of the trans and rear suspension mountings.

Measured pipe, it is 2.5" all through.

Rear muffler has 'NISMO' stamped on it as well as 'Calsonic'.

You know when the car is running. It makes a deep, but still quite soft, 'burble' at idle. It sounds nice, not too loud.

So maybe non factory, but not top performance replacement.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103581-quick-question/#findComment-1905928
Share on other sites

No idea, never done it.

Cut it out, flange off the ends of the cutout and the exhaust, and get a flanged straight pipe put in. If it makes it too loud, put the mid muffler back in. If its too quite still, well, at least you did something.

Thats what i am tempted to do, its is a bit too quiet, but its still not horrible or anything.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103581-quick-question/#findComment-1906225
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...