Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

i've recently picked up my stagea and its so sweet, only thing it needs is some attention to the brakes. the front pads are low (not seriously low but will need replacing soon).

Well after a good blast up Mt Mee (for any of you here in brisbane) I noticed that stopping power wasn't as good as I'd like. i realise these things weigh in excess of 1650kg even if they don't feel like it.

I would like to replace the rotors with DBA xdrilled and slotted definatley front and depending on price rear too (at least machine the rear) and then some preformance pads.

what I need to know is are the stagea series 1 braking system the same as an R33 gtst or are they something different. Never owned a skyline before so i'm not sure. This will make getting the gear a lot easier than aksing people at stores. oh yeah and pads too, same as r33 ?????

thanks for the help

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103965-stagea-brakes-help/
Share on other sites

I tested my brakes yesterday (new baby = very tired driver; would be better off drunk I reckon!).

They are GOLD. They stop hard & quick...... standard. As good as my DBA x-drilled/slotted rotors on my ex-VR V8 chaser sedan.

When they are worn, then I'll put slooted DBA's on the front, with good pads all round.

Brendan

Stagea brakes?

This car has the most pathetic brakes i have ever used. Even my 2tonne celsior braked harder then my stagea.

The stock pads overheat within 3-4 hard corners too (mountain stuff) which is also pathetic.

DBA's etc should make them "good", AP make them "mention worthy"

Each to their own though. For me, they overheat way too easy.

BAH HUMBUG! you guys obviously slow down too much for corners. In 18 months of Stagea driving I have always been able to activate the ABS at will. So the limit of retardation is the tyres, not the brakes. Good pads, slotted rotors and decent brake fluid is all mine needed.

:P cheers :)

BAH HUMBUG! you guys obviously slow down too much for corners.  In 18 months of Stagea driving I have always been able to activate the ABS at will.  So the limit of retardation is the tyres, not the brakes.  Good pads, slotted rotors and decent brake fluid is all mine needed.

:) cheers :)

Need better tyres? :P

Does anyone know what sort of money I would be looking at to upgrade the front to r33 gts-t calipers and DBA rotors.

Is it all a straight swap?

Maybe around ~500 for calipers all round, new rotors are 400 a pair, new pads are 200 a pair.

SK, even in straight line mega dry conditions, 100 to 0, i cant lock the ABS up. And ive got the braided lines too....

2nd time in the hills two nights ago, i consciously thought about not dragging the brakes, and being very quick with my braking. Wasnt getting very bad brake fade, not as bad as the first time.

I think maybe i have the el cheapo of cheap pads on mine, crapper then stock im talking :P

I'd think that mine has good pads, as they grip VERY well. I was very surprised I stopped so quickly. Biggest limiting factor is the $100 cheaparse tyres Im using (until someone finds me a set of 17inch R34 GTT wheels!! wink wink please)

Brendan

Yeah well I'm thinking of just going with a whole GTST upgrade. Front and Rear. It seems (after reading so many posts here) that doing anything with the standard brakes is just too hard as far as finding parts goes. At least with a whole R33 GTST setup I'll have better preformance and easier replacment of pads / rotors.

Has anyone here done this. And how much did it cost. I'm thinking R33 4 spot calipers front, 2 spot rear and matching rotors front and rear. Wether I go for slotted or not is a different matter depending on cost. Otherwise i'll upgrade rotors later.

I'm assuming pads and rotors are going to be much easier to find this way. Also how easy to fit the whole setup.

Thanks guys

Need better tyres?  :)

Nope and the suspesnion is pretty good too.

Does anyone know what sort of money I would be looking at to upgrade the front to r33 gts-t calipers and DBA rotors. 

Is it all a straight swap?

Don't forget the master cylinder and the hoses. Just sticking used callipers on is not my idea of a good move. I would look at rebuilding the callipers and master cylinder before I put them on. They may well be in worse condition than what you take off. Just changing the fronts only adds a complication, that being the master cylinder front/rear biasing will be wrong. That means differential bore sizes to fix, not a cheap conversion as it requires some braking system expertise (not your local workshop).

Last time I bough Nissan 4 spot fronts and 2 spot rears they cost $800 with used standard rotors, because the people selling them wouldn't separate. So I ended up with a set of rotors that I didn't need plus the $50 freight (they are heavy) to get them here. The prices are high because the Silvia guys all want to do the 5 stud + brake upgrade. Their strong demand pushes the prices up. I sold the standard rotors for $150 to get some money back.

Then I had to get the callipers serviced, that was $400 and new DBA slotted rotors where $700. Then I had to buy pads, decent pads, they were $450 for the set (front and rear). The standard brake hoses didn't fit, although they were in OK condition. So I made up a set of braided lines, they would have cost $320 trade price. Fortunately the master cylinder was the right size and I already had it rebuilt for $180.

Add it up;

800 + 50 - 150 + 400 + 700 + 450 + 320 + 180 = $2,750.

Plus the labour to remove and replace, I reckon no change from $3K.

Did it improve the braking, hell yes, but I reckon I could have achieved almost the same improvement with just rotors and pads for around 1/3 the cost. This is why I have gone that way with the Stagea.

:) cheers :)

Edited by Sydneykid

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The attached document is fine. I just downloaded & opened it.
    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
×
×
  • Create New...