Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

okai iv spent a nother $250 and got a dual solinoid instead of the single on my blitz sbc and its really pissing me off!!

if i hook it up the the stoock vaccum lines that the old solinoid came off,

it wont boost past 11 psi if i change the pressure source it boost of the clock!!

plz someone help me

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/104395-gtr-boost-controller/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Dont use existing vacium lines, leave them plugged in and disconnect the stock boost controller ( the wire that goes to it ).

Install the unit close to the turbos, pick your vacium from the line that goes to the charcoal canister, then the the line that goes to the turbos and have one side going to the front turbo actuator and the other to the rear . Plug the stock vacium lines that go to the actuators . Then the small ( thin) line going inside the car where your screen is, same with the electrical wires . Hook up the pos (red wire ) to ignition and the other wire ( should be black) to earth . Then all you have to do is read your manual to set it up to the boost you want .

I don't understand what you mean , thats the easiest place to take it from, the vacium line that comes from the intake to the canister .

You can get vacium for the boost controller from anywhere you like ( from the plenum ) . If you install the boost controller in the drivers side the run ( of the lines ) is to long and you will get big boost spike . ( it will work though ) .

where is the positive boost pressure going to come from?

as boost controllers like to have a wastegate line ,boost line and small vacume line....

which one is suppose to be used???

i have a hks evc 3 on my rb26 but i cant get it to run, it just goes fullboost, because i havnt found a boost source to connect it to...................

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...