Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hmm depends on the overall condtion of the car itself.

my r33 has 130,000km and drives as good as the day i bought it (90,000km) and its a 1993

Maybe get a compression test or leak down test done on the engine if you are undersure about the condtion of it (that is if ur interested in buying it after you seen it)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/110445-kms/#findComment-2034748
Share on other sites

god i'm so sick of people thinking that any car over 70,000km is going to be a thrashed out piece of crap...

My R32 GTS-t has 194,000km on it... its still running fine with only a few things having failed, such as a turbo and a fuel pump (touch wood)

Friend of mine had a Mazda MX6 Turbo.. that thing had close to 300,000km on it, and that thing went hard!

My brothers Mazda RX7 has 250,000km on it and there's nothing majorly wrong with it

My brothers old Toyota sprinter had 350,000km on it, and the only thing wrong with it is low compression on one cylinder...

sensing a trend here?

you can go buy a 'low km' vehicle if it makes you feel good about yourself... i can pretty much guarantee you that its done two, or maybe even 3 times what the odometer says though...

judge a car on the condition of it... not the km's

i've seen 1989 15 year old import rule shitters that come in with like 70 or 80,000km yet they look like they've just gone 10 rounds with Mohammed Ali, compared to some higher km vehicles, such as mine, that are looked after, and maintained, and constantly get people commenting on how good condition it is etc.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/110445-kms/#findComment-2034795
Share on other sites

I think the highest k's I saw on a car out of japan was on a bus. It had 1 million k's on it with logs.

150,000km's is fine, as long as the car itself is in a good condition and the engine is healthy (do the checks mentioned before to find that out).

Also consider that a 1993 R32 probably came in under the old CPA scheme back in 2003/2004, so its probably clocked a fair chuck of mileage in australia. Apparently aussies add about 20,000km per year to their car.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/110445-kms/#findComment-2034798
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • I have had too many of those over the years, my cars have a toolkit or at minimum a cheapy multi tool thing because its too easy to be snookered by some stupid plastic clip that stops you checking the battery terminal isn't loose.
    • Basically, if there is a part# on the nissan catalogue, it is a genuine part. There is a thing called "new old stock" which is stuff made years ago but never sold (or landfilled), but it is super hit and miss what you can buy. Other than some expensive Nismo stuff there is nothing new being made that suits these cars. The only time to be a little careful is (mostly in the US I think, but maybe Japan too), Nissan started rebranding some cheap crap maintenance parts like oil filters as "Pitworks"; stay away from them, if you are buying cheap just buy whatever the local car parts shop carries The three part numbers have an explanation on Amayama: 0V005 is auto, base style 0V015 is manual 0V505 is auto, hectic momo branded ones, maximum F&F points there!
    • Just to get this straight if you turn the splined shaft to the outside, it turns freely but the chain does not move? What happens when you move the chain, does the splined shaft turn? Surely the shaft is snapped, or the chain is seized and it took the teeth off whatever great is behind the steel bracket
    • Good on you for mentioning, that helps as far as other things you might need to check
×
×
  • Create New...