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Kaido_RR Grand Master

Kaido_RR

Posted
Posted

hmm depends on the overall condtion of the car itself.

my r33 has 130,000km and drives as good as the day i bought it (90,000km) and its a 1993

Maybe get a compression test or leak down test done on the engine if you are undersure about the condtion of it (that is if ur interested in buying it after you seen it)

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AzzurrA Grand Master

AzzurrA

Posted
Posted

god i'm so sick of people thinking that any car over 70,000km is going to be a thrashed out piece of crap...

My R32 GTS-t has 194,000km on it... its still running fine with only a few things having failed, such as a turbo and a fuel pump (touch wood)

Friend of mine had a Mazda MX6 Turbo.. that thing had close to 300,000km on it, and that thing went hard!

My brothers Mazda RX7 has 250,000km on it and there's nothing majorly wrong with it

My brothers old Toyota sprinter had 350,000km on it, and the only thing wrong with it is low compression on one cylinder...

sensing a trend here?

you can go buy a 'low km' vehicle if it makes you feel good about yourself... i can pretty much guarantee you that its done two, or maybe even 3 times what the odometer says though...

judge a car on the condition of it... not the km's

i've seen 1989 15 year old import rule shitters that come in with like 70 or 80,000km yet they look like they've just gone 10 rounds with Mohammed Ali, compared to some higher km vehicles, such as mine, that are looked after, and maintained, and constantly get people commenting on how good condition it is etc.

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funkymonkey Grand Master

funkymonkey

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Posted

I think the highest k's I saw on a car out of japan was on a bus. It had 1 million k's on it with logs.

150,000km's is fine, as long as the car itself is in a good condition and the engine is healthy (do the checks mentioned before to find that out).

Also consider that a 1993 R32 probably came in under the old CPA scheme back in 2003/2004, so its probably clocked a fair chuck of mileage in australia. Apparently aussies add about 20,000km per year to their car.

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  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Welp, good to know. Will have to wait awhile until steady hands with drills and taps are available. In other news, these just arrived! I will weigh them for posterity.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      100% the factory sender is tapered, that is how it seals (well, that and teflon paste or tape)
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Thanks folks - I've saved a few links and I'll have to think of potential cable/adapters/buying fittings. First step will be seeing if I can turn the curren abortion of a port into something usable, then get all BSPT'y on it. I did attempt to look at the OEM sender male end to see if it IS tapered because as mentioned you should be able to tell by looking at it... well, I don't know if I can. If I had to guess it looks like *maybe* 0.25 of a mm skinnier at the bottom of the thread compared to where the thread starts. So if it is tapered it's pretty slight - Or all the examples of BSPT vs BSPP are exaggerated for effect in their taper size.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
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