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I figure since everyone here already knows i'm a complete noob when it comes to my car it can't hurt to go ahead and ask this either :P Be gentle...

I'm in the process of getting figures together so I know what i'll be up for when I start the process of doing mods to my car (otherwise known as daydreaming lol) which will hopefully be in the not too distant future and I've got a few questions I figure people here can help me with.

Firstly, boost. As it is my car hits boots around 4.5k, so takeoff in 1st is pretty... Uninspiring. I'd like it to kick in faster. around 3k seems like it'd be a nice spot, but I don't really know how any of this works. So in come the mods. I'm figuring I'll need the standard stuff like a FMIC, a boost controller and i guess a decent tune to up the power or whatever, but for this will I also need a new ecu? Or can I get by on just the standard one when there's only a few minor mods? Which brings me to my next question - (If i'd be better off with a whole new computer) would it be better to go for a powerFC with it's boost controller add on, or just a boost controller on it's own if it'll get by on the standard ecu. The car already has a random japanese exhaust of some form (nfi of the brand but it has a JASMA thingy on the bottom) which I *love* the sound of, so I'm not to keen to get rid of it. Assuming that's up to the task, what's the best way to go about squeezing a little more boost/power out of the car?

Or to sum it up (much) simpler... What's the best way to get some more power and earlier boost without spending a gazillion dollar?

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Sauce - There are a few easy and inexpensive ways to make a little more power out of your engine - First of all would be: Youre turbo has a computer controlled wastegate which works from a solenoid on the passenger side of the engine bay (probably somewhere on the strut tower) this solenoid controls the amount of pressure in the turbine according to engine revs, there are two wires on the bottom of the solenoid - a white wire and a black wire - I know this sounds dodgy but cut the BLACK wire and find a good place to ground it to the body, this will cause your solenoid to be constantly running at full boost (7-8psi instead of 5-6) and at lower revs = you will probably notice it making full boost at around the 3,000 rpm mark giving you alot more mid range torque... Trust me on this cause it works, Ive done it (but if youre not sure about it then get someone who has done it already to show you how)...

Another thing you can do is buy a boost bleed valve "controller" from e-bay (I believe that leech_ knows how to get them for $35) although they are usually pretty unreliable which means boost spikes and boost spikes can mean bye bye turbine exhaust wheel. :thumbsup:

Electronic boost control is the safest and most prescise way to go.

Take in mind though that if you up boost you also up the time it takes for your turbo to build pressure so in short - more boost usually means more lag.

Also if you put a front mount intercooler on it you will notice more lag because of the extra space that has to be filled by the compressed air before it enters the inlet... However - front mounts are great and are essential if you want more power.

The R33 GTst computer is "un-tuneable" unless it is "piggy backed" with another computer or replaced completely - An A'Pexi Power FC is your best option, theyre quick and easy to install and there are people in Canberra who can comprehensively tune them... However they are not cheap - expect at the very least $1000 with hand controller and at least $300 for a Dyno tune.

I would suggest also leaving the exhaust you have on it as it is probably a 3" madrel cat back system if its a JASMA from Japan, but one of the best things you could do would be to get a high flow catalytic cconverter and 3" mandrel turbo "dump" pipe installed - this will give you a fair increase in power and turbo reponse.

You dont need heaps of money as every part for R33's is off the shelf and easily available so..... Happy modding!

I hope I was of some help. :)

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The turbotech boost controller off eBay is great though, for the money you can't beat it.

Both Leech and I have noted that when we used the boost controller that even after upping the boost a little (I wouldn't do it too much on the stock turbo) boost was both smoother, and came on earlier than the stock solenoid. Well worth getting one.

Made a huge difference on my old S14 with nothing more than high flow turbo, tuned length exhaust manifold, and Blitz power induction air box. Using stock exhaust and everything. :thumbsup:

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it doesnt really matter if you want your boost to come on earlier as you dont really make any power untill 4.5 to 5k rpm's, see I am on fullboost by 2.5k (12 to 13 psi) but dont make real power untill around the 5k mark. ECU go a powerfc or safcII power fc will be good down the track when you start doing some big mods. Where as the safcII will only be good for small stuff.

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I think you are confused unless you have a bigger turbo a stock turbo will start spooling in the 2100 - 2400rpm and I think full boost by 2600 - 2900rpm.

Also if you are going to get a boost controller with only having an exhaust I would not run any more than 8 - 9psi. Also you say you have an exhaust but I will put money its just a cat back get a good dump pipe and high flow cat that will help the turbo spool up a little quicker.

Then get a good panel/pod filter, FMIC, cam gears and possibly an aftermarket ecu or piggyback. Then up the boost to 11 - 12psi. Some say you can run more boost but A: you wont see much if anymore power and you will probably add yourself to the list of blown turbos pretty quickly. I am only running 11psi with all of the above minus the cam gears as I would like to see my turbo last and still be in good condition, but then i am a big girl and am over cautious with my car :thumbsup:

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