Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've got an avcr boost controller and recently reset the ecu then I drove the car for 45mins on 0.65bar boost. No probs there.

Then today I cranked it to 0.75bar, for the first time after the reset, and i couldn't believe my eyes on the amount of petrol it chewed. I was driving casually for about 25km occasionally giving it a kick in the guts and it went through about 10-12L!(It was exactly on the 1/4 full line on the odo when i started, and it was almost empty after the drive). It didn't feel responsive at all either. I'm not worried yet, as im assuming the ecu is trying to sort itself out.

I'm guessing the ecu is trying to get the ratios right, so after a few more trips on 0.75bar it should sort itself out and get back to normal. (touch wood) Can anyone correct me or shed some light on what they think might be happening.

Also can anyone confirm that when u reset the ecu, and u have an elect boost controller, that u have to drive the car on each setting to make it relearn properly. Or is keeping it on one boost level sufficient (and just vary the revs).

Hopefully this thread is useful for others in the same situation, or just curious.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/112634-stock-ecu-learning-mode/
Share on other sites

i have reset my ecu a few times after doing a few mods here and there, and i could never tell the differance after reseting it...

oh yeah .75 bar is like 10-11psi ya ? maybe your ecu is going into rich / retard mode because theres to much boost.. try lowering the boost to like 9psi and see what happens

I've got an avcr boost controller and recently reset the ecu then I drove the car for 45mins on 0.65bar boost. No probs there.

Then today I cranked it to 0.75bar, for the first time after the reset, and i couldn't believe my eyes on the amount of petrol it chewed. I was driving casually for about 25km occasionally giving it a kick in the guts and it went through about 10-12L!(It was exactly on the 1/4 full line on the odo when i started, and it was almost empty after the drive). It didn't feel responsive at all either. I'm not worried yet, as im assuming the ecu is trying to sort itself out.

I'm guessing the ecu is trying to get the ratios right, so after a few more trips on 0.75bar it should sort itself out and get back to normal. (touch wood) Can anyone correct me or shed some light on what they think might be happening.

Also can anyone confirm that when u reset the ecu, and u have an elect boost controller, that u have to drive the car on each setting to make it relearn properly. Or is keeping it on one boost level sufficient (and just vary the revs).

Hopefully this thread is useful for others in the same situation, or just curious.

Week after week I see another thread about ECU resetting and the misunderstanding of what it actually does and the problems it can cure.

It may not fix a shitty idle if:

1. the plugs are f**ked

2. the base timing is wrong

3. there is a manifold leak or PCV valve or rocker cover vent is venting to atmoshere

4. the MAF or another sensor has failed and or wiring to the sensor/s

5. TPS sensor is not zeroed with throttle closed

It will not fix open loop fuel mixtures, that means resetting the ecu will only affect closed loop fuel control which is "approximately" between 0 - 4000 rpm and from vacumm to about a couple of pound of boost (very general description). So above 4000 rpm and above around 2pound of boost the mixtures will go rich as this is standard nissan programming.

Resetting the ECU may increase timing as there is usually two ignition maps hi and lo but this is usually only if the ECU has seen enough detonation to warrant defulting back to a low octane map.

Resetting the ECU does a few other things with idle stability usually leared cranking IAC position or learned idle IAC postion but I wont go on.

The most likely problem with excessive fuel consuption is the fact that you've increase the boost to a point in which the car makes no more power as the ignition is that far retarded and the AFR's are so rich. Hope this clears up some misconceptions.

I've just got info from the archive of past threads and I was curious so I thought the only way to learn is to try it urself. I'm keen to have a chat with someone who knows what actually happens apart from hearing comments like "IT has made my car run better".

The thing is that I was running 0.75boost fine before I reset the ecu, and fuel consumption was fine. So just wondering after the ecu was reset, why the fuel cons is playing silly buggers and car feels less responsive only on higher boost setting? what could have been changed... ?

Comments most welcome.

Edited by Andyn

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...