Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

*Fibreglass R32 GTR Rear Wing - $90

*Bridgestone Potenza Shocks (front and rear) suit R32 GTS-t - $200 for all 4

*Standard R32 GTS-t Front and Rear Swaybars - $15 each

*Standard 2 1/2" Cat - $25 - SOLD

*Standard R32 GTS-t Dump & Front Pipe - $25

*Standard R32 GTS-t Rims x 4 (With Tyres, Lots of Tread) - $300/set

*Standard R32 GTS-t Turbo - blown - $100

*Standard R33 GTS-T Turbo - No Shaft Play, Appears to be GREAT condition, just makes a whining noise all the time (i.e. does it even when not on boost) - $250 - SOLD

*Standard R32 GTS-t Front Brake Rotors - $100

*Standard R32 GTS-t Drivers Seat (late model, good condition, only 1 minor wear mark in bolster) - $100 - SOLD

*Standard R32 GTS-t Recirculating BOV - $30 - SOLD

*Standard R32 GTS-t Intercooler - $40

Non Skyline Related Parts:

Autometer Water Temperature Gauge - Never used - $150

AE82 4AGE Inlet manifold - $50

AE86 diff housing (no centre) - $20

AE86 rear drum brakes - $Free with Diff Housing

Holden 202 Inlet manifold - $20

Holden 202 Varijet Carby - $10

Blown Amp - $Free

These parts are just off the top of my head, i quite possibly have other stuff laying around as well, which i will add as i find it!

I am open to offers

parts are located in Brisbane

Please contact me either on my mobile - 0402 202 978

or via PM

or via E-mail (jwgeh @ internode.on.net)

Many Thanks

Jason

give me the lowest price u'll go for the r33 turbo.

The lowest i'm prepared to go on this is $200 +shipping

hey im interested in the r32 rims. have they been balanced? gutter rash? any pics?

I believe one of the rims has a very slight buckle in it (you don't really notice it until you're doing about 130 - 140....)

There is a slight amount of gutter rash on some of the rims, nothing OVERLY bad though...

I can arrange to get some pics if you're still interested?

  • 6 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The final part arrived today to un-clampify and simplify the intake Who would have though a 1/2" hose stainless bulkhead fitting designed for below waterline bilge pumps would be what I needed Test fit on a 3" offcut I had laying around to see if it would work, and it worked a treat All going well the intake will be on its "final version" tomorrow 
    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
×
×
  • Create New...