Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys i just put a deposit on a R34 gtt this weekend, and should be ready for pick next week, just wondering if i need any light after market stuff done to the car?? e.g Turbo timer, boost controller or anything that will help the car run smooth.. coz im just new to turbo cars...

just a bit of background of the car, factory stock except catback exhaust, and i wanted to leave it that way forawhile. its only done 33000, and its 99 model.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/117784-new-r34-gtt-owner/
Share on other sites

average of 4,700km's a year?

do you mind if i ask how much you paid for it?

don't think you need a turbo timer or boost controller to make the car run smoother. Just warm her up and cool her down... and the stock R34 turbo's can't take a whole lot of extra boost anyway...

that's some crazy low km's... must be in mint/perfect condition....

Turbo timers aren't really needed. Just make sure you take it easy just before you reach your destination or otherwise just wait for your car to cool down for 30 seconds or so after you stop.

Skylines get stolen all the time so make sure you have at least an immobiliser!

Boost controller is a performance mod - install and tune one if you want to go faster >_<

welcome to the 34 club! Nice find with low kays. As long as it runs well and looks immaculate thats all you could ask for in an import...low kays or not.

I picked my 99 model up 2 years ago with around 36ks on the clock and from the looks of things it looked pretty genuine...

I reckon an imobiliser and alarm would be ur priority instead of turbo timer or boost controller...

If ur gonna leave it pretty much stock for awhile, I suggest picking up a K&N panel filter to replace the stock paper element.

Post some pics when u have them!

cool cool! yeah the car is in perfect condition, inside looks new, i spotted reasonable amount of small rock chips in front and side of car, and we had to bargin down with the dealer, besides that is all fine. i really love that colour, dark purpleish and not black..

*ss8* > the car was on for $32000, we bargined down a few G's, oh yeah, is got 18s racing rims on it..

Ahmm how long i have to warm and cool her down for? :s

and how much would a good immobliser and alarm cost? and fitted?

Cheers guys

Mine has a Brant 3 point immobiliser (no alarm) and it cost me somewhere around $300 for parts and fitting.

In my eyes, warm up really isn't necessary - just don't be a leadfoot just after you've started the car.

As for cool down, it depends on how hard you pushed the car earlier. 30 seconds should be okay for most times. If you've really taken your car to the limit, a 1 minute cooldown maybe preferable.

if the car is a dark purplish, and not black, it's a respray i'm pretty sure. have seen some ppl spray it the midnight purple colour of the 33/34 GTR's...

engine bay same colour? door sills show any variations in colour, tape marks etc?

It's a good air filter.

It's hard to detect as it is placed in the stock air box

It lasts for ages.

As above + its similar to a pod filter except you don't get heat soak and the cops don't have any reason to ping you for it.

DJ, which state are u located? Give us a run down...sedan or coupe? manual/auto? etc...

i really love that colour, dark purpleish and not black..

and how much would a good immobliser and alarm cost? and fitted?

congrats on your purchase >_<

since it's been resprayed hope you've had a good look for major accident damage repair. with resprayed low km cars they tend to be repair jobs. the car doesn't accumulate km's while in the shop/s and the owner generally decides to paint it a colour he/she wishes so yeah.

in regards to the alarm/imob you should get something decent. don't skimp out on it and definately get one asap as you won't be able to insure the car without one.

have fun

yeah got a pic with my phone, the engine bay and inside looked all original, but theres a blue thing fitted infront of the intercooler, and its pipe to the oil tank, which i think is a oil cooler, and there also a oil catcher in red colour..im guess they were all after market, i bought extened 3 year warranty on the car, so im guessing theres no much things to worry about.. i hope :S

Any other stuff i should know? pls let me know...

Thanks very much for all the help guys

post-28983-1147602915.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • With stone chips, you really can't just try to fill them. You really have to sand that spot to lower the edges of the chip, so that the filler will end up covering a wider patch than just the chip. Otherwise, you're trying to have a sharp edged paint surface match up to some filler, and they just do not sand the same and you always end up with a noticable transition. A bunch of adjacent chips should be well sanded back, to round off all those edges, and use a lot (in a relative sense) of filler to raise the whole area back.
    • To expand on this to help understanding... The bigger/longer the block is, the more it's going to work to sit on your far away high areas, and not touch the low stuff in the middle. When you throw the guide coat, and give it a quick go with a big block, guide coat will disappear in the high spots. If those high spots are in the correct position where the panel should be, stop sanding, and fill the low spots. However, using a small block, you "fall off" one of the high spots, and now your sanding the "side of the hill". Your little block would have been great for the stone chips, where you only use a very small amount of filler, so you're sanding and area let's say the size of a 5/10cent piece, with something that is 75*150. For the big panel, go bigger!   And now I'll go back to my "body work sucks, it takes too much patience, and I don't have it" PS, I thought your picture with coloured circles was an ultra sound... That's after my brain thought you were trying to make a dick and balls drawing...
    • Oh I probably didn't speak enough about the small sanding block for blocking large areas.  In the video about 3 minutes in, he talks about creating valleys in the panel. This is the issue with using a small sanding block for a large area, it's way too easy to create the valleys he is talking about. With a large block its much easier to create a nice flat surface.  Hard to explain but in practice you'll notice the difference straight away using the large block. 
    • Yep I guessed as much. You'll find life much easier with a large block something like this -  https://wholesalepaint.com.au/products/dura-block-long-hook-loop-sanding-block-100-eva-rubber-af4437 This is a good demo video of something like this in use -    You have turned your small rock chip holes into large low spots. You'll need to fill and block these low spots.  It's always a little hard not seeing it in person, but yes I would go ahead and lay filler over the whole area. Have a good look at the video I linked, it's a very good example of all the things you're doing. They went to bare metal, they are using guide coat, they are doing a skim coat with the filler and blocking it back. If what you're doing doesn't look like what they are doing, that's a big hint for you  
×
×
  • Create New...