Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Putting a stereo in the Maxima.

Will be front splits, rear 2-3ways, and maybe a sub.

If I run a 4 channel amp, with fronts and sub amped, and rears just off the head unit, will this work. Will the rears get a bit more power as the fronts/sub are amped?

Or - will the rears start getting nasty when the volume is up loud (loud where a normal 4 speaker unamped system would be distorting).

Dont really want to shell out for 2 amps.

are 6x9 rears going to give noticably more bass, and bass range than straight 6's. Yeah they are a wierd shape but are there really gains there?

I have no idea about car audio.

thanks.

Are you planning on having people in the back of the car often? If not just dont worry about rear speakers. Maybe just get some 4inchs? They should be ok for rear fill, and you wont need to run as much power to get as nice of a sound (as they arent playing bass). Also cheaper, so you can either save money, or spend more on better speakers.

The sub is for bass, so 6x9s are pointless if you are running a sub.

Other than that should work. Might just need to adjust the rears until they dont distort.

I run a similar setup in my cars (R31 and R32) and my sister had her car (Lancer) setup by Autobahn the same ie. Front speakers and 12" sub are run off a 4 channel amp and the rear speakers run off the head unit. If you are running a sub I wouldn't get too excited about the rear speakers. I have found some quality 6" speakers (eg Boston) give better bass than cheaper 6x9's. Either way a decent sub and appropriately sized amp will give awesome output.

I haven't encountered any distortion of the rear speakers when cranked up which maybe a reflection of the strength of the output of the speakers run off the amp.

Hope this helps.

Cheers

This is a recipe for a good sounding easy to set up everday system.

I have done over the years many cars like this, front and sub off the amp, rears off the deck.

Here's a few tips

- you wont get extra power from the deck for the rears simply by only running two speakers. The decks internal amps is not set up lie this.

- High pass the front speakers to take the bass out of them. This will help to give more volume from the front, better sound quality and most likely reduce the resonant frequency inside the door which may reduce vibration ( rattles) in the doors

- Low pass the sub.

- Load the sub by facing away from the cabin. This way when seats are up/down you get the same bass. ( ever seen those cars when they open the boot boom, i got bass, close the boot nothing) loading is important

Now if you want to do something a little different, take your 6x9's, a set of wire cutters and chop off the pig tail wire that runs to the tweeters. This will give you a cheap alternative to bying dedicated midranges. You will not gain any volume by this and it will sound dull in the back seat of the car, but really, screw the back seat, unless of course you spend a lot of time in it yourseld when the car is being driven around.

You can also buy caps for the 6x9's to take a little bass out them.

Cheers..

Great tips frx026, I was always uncertain of these things! I did however know about them as issues when installing a system.

This is a recipe for a good sounding easy to set up everday system.

I have done over the years many cars like this, front and sub off the amp, rears off the deck.

Here's a few tips

- you wont get extra power from the deck for the rears simply by only running two speakers. The decks internal amps is not set up lie this.

- High pass the front speakers to take the bass out of them. This will help to give more volume from the front, better sound quality and most likely reduce the resonant frequency inside the door which may reduce vibration ( rattles) in the doors

- Low pass the sub.

- Load the sub by facing away from the cabin. This way when seats are up/down you get the same bass. ( ever seen those cars when they open the boot boom, i got bass, close the boot nothing) loading is important

Now if you want to do something a little different, take your 6x9's, a set of wire cutters and chop off the pig tail wire that runs to the tweeters. This will give you a cheap alternative to bying dedicated midranges. You will not gain any volume by this and it will sound dull in the back seat of the car, but really, screw the back seat, unless of course you spend a lot of time in it yourseld when the car is being driven around.

You can also buy caps for the 6x9's to take a little bass out them.

Cheers..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
×
×
  • Create New...