Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G'day,

My mate has a RB20 '92 gtst. Firstly, mods, front mount, bleed valve (running standard boost at the moment), turbo back.

Basically he's skyline has the standard skyline problem of stalling, but this one is different. He has changed the timing belt and water pump recently and since then the car is running badly, i.e struggling to start, lacking power. He also tells me that he removed the pump assembly from the fuel tank becuase he needed to check why he's fuel gauge wasn't working, he did nothing, took it out, checked resistance in the sender and put it back in. Then some reason the fuel gauge started working and the car is lacking response.

When it's first started no matter hot or cold, it runs like a dog for say 4 mins. I have swapped the airflow over with mine and it still does it, and he has a new 02 sensor. Sometimes it runs bad like it's in limp home mode, backfiring and carring on, so I thought maybe its overfueling or something fuel related

Thought it has to be something to do with him taking the pump out or something, but the thing is, disconnect the fuse and the pump, run the car, till stalls, keep turning for 30secs. Remove a hose of the pump and it is pouring out, and I mean pouring, alot more than usually happens and its coming out of the tank side not the hose going to the engine. Put it back on and took the other off, same thing, tried both off, same thing. It's basically like the pump is on a little and it keeps coming. It's on just under half tank too.

Would this be pointing to something wrong down that end? Pump? Or maybe the regulator is dead? It's just strange it happens after he did something. What could it be as I can't get it out with petrol pouring all over the shop, something to do with the new water pump and belt?

Cheers help out please

And sorry for the story, any help is sensational

Edited by GTAHH
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/122086-r32-fuel-problems-running-badly/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...