blind_elk

littlies - 347cc, + a bit of extra fuel pressure. Might try to fit the 732s sometime in the future. But for now I'm just happy that the car is worth driving.

Finally got the beast back together, and onto the dyno for a full remap. Car was running like a pig, but managed to drive it from Tarneit (Melb W Subs) to Seaford (SE Subs). It seems the bad running was due to it only running on 5 cylinders. Mech found one of the new injector plugs wasn't connecting properly. This may possibly explain why I couldn't get the engine to do much at all with the 730cc injectors. Then there were problems maxxing out the injectors. And the connection to the front of the turbo would collapse and shut the engine down. Anyway, car is back home. Still has a minor problem with hot starts, not as much power as I might have hoped for, but otherwise is now a driveable car. Anyone who needs similar work on their car, I can highly recommend Shane at CMS Performance - cmsperformance.com.au, (03) 9088 0762

If you want to go "top feed", I have a set of Bosch 731cc EV14 injectors available. Msg me if interested.

Well, I am SOOOOO close to going back to side feed injectors. It is becoming clear to me that whoever designed these kits did not try and install them with the engine in the car. I had to disconnect an air bleed on the underside of the plenum, and the rail sits so close to it that I can't get the hose back on! Add to that, I am having difficulty installing the rearmost bolt that holds the halves of the plenum together, probably due to the plumbing underneath the plenum. Any help / guidance appreciated.

Doh! Anyway, had a little day trip to EFI Hardware (Melbourne, only a 3.5hr round trip). They reckon, seeing as I'm not making massive power, or using E85, all I need is a 347cc injector. And worst case, pump a little bit extra pressure behind it to get the flow rate. So saving my pennies to get the smaller injectors

I think it has rudimentary data logging, but I've never used it. Will try and work out if I can make sense of it. OEM O2. Not that it comes into play while starting, cold running. In fact, it may need replacing after the initial stages of the injector failure (I had severe "popping" backfires that I had never experienced during overrun) Which divider?

Well, I'm at a loss. Got it all back together, reduced all fuel map points by half, giving idle opening times around 1 - 1.5ms. I haven't as yet replaced to plugs, but I know they are fine. (I can throw them in my 180B and it runs). Just cannot get the RB25 to run. It will basically start, but hunts all around the idle point for about 5 sec, then stalls. The engine does not respond to throttle at any time. Contacted Bosch tech support - worse than useless for advice. I'm seriously considering going back to the side feeds (except I now need a new loom since the new injectors have different connectors).

Thanks gentlemen. I actually have a 3D 4Plus (sorry for the omission), which has full sequential injection and ignition. The car will be going for a full dyno re-map - I just need to set some numbers so the car is "sort of" driveable.

Almost ready to fire the beast up. But seeking further advice. Given that the Wolf simply accepts an opening time for the injectors - no separate parameter for injector latency - what should I do to set injector times. Given that the new injectors have twice the flow rate of the OEMs, it makes sense to simply halve all the values. But considering a probable difference in latency, I'm thinking maybe adjusting times to 60% of the previous values. Comments, please.

Thanks. Actually, I was considering a daub of silastic might do the job.

Well, I got one of these, with 731cc injectors. But you have to split the plenum to fit it. Problem I now have is - how the fcuk do you reinstall the bolts in the plenum. The new rail is in the fcukin way. I can only see that you need to feed the bolt up from underneath. But then the bolt keeps unbalancing and falling off the socket. Does it take another set of hands to try and guide the bolt from on top?

495s are 3-4 WEEKS away (awaiting height adjusters). Can't wait that long - the car is blocking the driveway (single garage), so I can't get the 180B out. Guess I need to settle on 731s (which are actually a bit cheaper than 495s).

I've seen that. It uses 3/4 height injectors. Unfortunately, the smallest injectors (495cc) are out of stock. EFI Hardware in Melb have a similar setup available (but not as a "kit"), using 1/2 height injectors, with 495s in stock. Going to be a bit more expensive, but will have the car back on the dyno sooner.

Bought these recently from JustJap, but changed my mind about them. Located Melb W Subs. $100. Can post at buyer expense. (Note: no globes)

From what I have found so far, they don't make side feed EV14s. So I am going to need new fuel rail and adapter looms as well as the new injectors. I can get re-manufactured original side feed 370cc for $450 per set, or brand new for nearly $1100 (Kudos MS). EFI Hardware in Melbourne have Bosch half height 495cc EV14s for around $100 each. Then add on a fuel rail conversion. And new connectors. Probably $1100. Seems worthwhile, just need to work out where the money is coming from. Reading the Wolf manual again, I think I can do a simple change to tell the entire map to adjust by some % of Inj1 time. But otherwise you have to re-program every mapped point. (actually, you can map every 500rpm, and the Wolf will interpolate values at every 125 rpm increment)

Thanks your advice, GTSBoy. I'm running a tuneable ECU (Wolf 3D), but doesn't changing injector style, along with increased flow rate, presume I'm chasing more power? Or want to run E85. Are EV14s a simple plug'n'play? Will they require different connector plugs? Any other changes?

Ok, pulled the injector rail (a pig of a job in itself). Powered each injector and each one worked (although they all made slightly different sounds). Then hooked up fuel lines again, and powered up the fuel pump. Then #6 started pi$$ing fuel. So can only assume there is a failed 'O' ring. Given the injectors are some 30 years old, and, as I said, a pig to remove / refit, I will replace all of them. Need advice as to whether I can install re-manufactured ones (I have these in mind : https://ozautosport.com/products/genuine-370cc-375cc-fuel-injectors-x-6-for-rb25det?_pos=1&_sid=bd0c38d2b&_ss=r )

Anyone recommend a supplier of a set of 6 std injectors?

Well, this can't be good. I had the pump turn on, and found #4 and #6 (at least) overflowing with fuel ☹️ After I had the injectors checked out recently. I guess it's injector rail off (again!), and see what's going on. (hopefully I can retain all the little rubbers this time)

None of the cylinders look wet, but I'm thinking of purchasing a bore scope tomorrow. Coolant looks fine. Oil (on dipstick) looks fine.

Pulled the plugs - can now turn engine manually without problem. No sign of fuel in any of the cylinders. I've removed the rocker covers, but my arms aren't long enough to turn the engine (from underneath) and watch the valve train. I can turn the fuel pump on without running the engine, so tomorrow I'm going to try that and see if I can see fuel in any cylinder. TurboTapin - how to turn a bore scope and view the valves?

Seriously, that means engine out (this is a GTS4).

Always the bearer of good news.

A while ago, I purchased a Sunny as a project. It was parked in the street, opposite my home, until local council said "move it, or else'. So now it is in storage, but in open air. And because of that, I just haven't done anything to it. I was wondering if anyone on here might have access to a covered area I could rent so I can come and go to work on it. In Melb W Subs preferably. TIA

Houston, we have a problem! Engine suddenly won't turn over properly. An START, it spins for a few seconds, then just locks up, like it has hydraulicked. I can turn by hand, although there is a spot where it is very tight. I viewed through the oil filler and confirmed the cam is turning, so I know that the cam belt isn't broken. I have pulled the starter, and it checks out as OK. It is some 15 years old, and was second hand when installed, and is a pig to get in and out, so I have a brand new one to install. Tried again today to manually turn the engine, and it was even harder than previously. I really don't want to pull the head, but I may need to. Any suggestions as to what has happened?