blind_elk

What happens if you just rev the engine, with no load?

With the way GT-Rs are appreciating, if you get one (even if it already has some mods), leave it alone! If you want something approaching a GT-R, GTS4 with RB25DET Stagea engine. When I first did mine, cranked 180Awkw - I reckon very close to a stock GT-R.

Actually, I don't think this question has been answered. What exactly is the car doing - handling-wise - that makes you think it needs any adjustments to the suspension setup?

Diameter? Aspect Ratio?

What size?

Darcy, are you after a "paddle shift" setup? Mounted on the steering wheel? I know someone who installed one in a 33, I could possibly ask him where he got it.

Stuffed diff bushes is also my preferred guess. Get some SuperPro urethane replacements (and have fun getting the diff out and back in!).

I would expect if it was a vacuum problem, it would be a gradual deterioration of performance, not a sudden shut down. But, if it's a vacuum problem, then why not simply remove the fuel cap and see if the engine will run.

Superpro make a bush that allows adjustment of caster. SPF1960K

Thanks

Just in the process of replacing the water pump and cam belt in my RB25DET. Just need guidance on how to adjust the tensioner. Do I force the tension, or simply let the return spring create the tension? TIA

Autobarn has a Supercharge brand, which has a NS40 equiv (MF40B20L), at 390 CCA.

There was a similar problem many years ago. Turned out to be a crack in the cooler piping was opening up at higher boosts.

Have you used injector cleaner fuel additive? (My Pulsar was having trouble not stalling every time I pulled up at a set of lights. Threw a bottle of Nulon in the fuel, no more stalling.)

The fuel is at least 6 months old. May well have gone "off". Try some new fresh fuel first.

Yes. PM me any time.

Thanks for the info. Already have the bushes to install. Looking for a second set so I don't need to take the car off the road for an extend time.

You might be saving weight, but you will be sacrificing a heap of grip. Nissan raced these things in Oz, and they ran as AWD, not as RWD, and were basically unbeatable, even over a 1000k race (Bathurst 1000). I don't think Nissan would have spent $$$ developing the AWD system if its additional grip factor did not overcome the additional weight factor.

After a pair of front upper control arms for my R32 GTS4. The condition of the bushes is not important, as I will be installing aftermarket urethane camber-adjustable bushes.

At the risk of being repetitive, the O2 sensor will NOT be the cause. The ECU only reacts to O2 when up to temp and at cruise conditions. At idle, there is not enough gas flow; at normal driving, there is too much variability of gas flow. Have you done the standard diagnostic test to determine which cylinder(s) cause the rough running? (disconnect each coil in turn, see if the idle changes) Sometimes, depending on the timing light, checking timing can give incorrect information - the indicated timing is doubled, so you are actually running at 7.5 BTDC at idle.

Have you determined which cylinder(s) are causing the rough running? Compression test?

Isn't this a symptom of a problem in the AFM? So, maybe the colder weather has caused a gap to open up in a broken solder joint.

Or: https://jaylenosgarage.com.au/collections/interiorproducts/products/leather-cleaner

Check the pedal box hasn't broken. Check under the car that the pushrod hasn't popped out of the slave cylinder - points to a broken pivot ball.

... back to 110)