blind_elk

With everything oem and brand new coil packs, its unlikely you need a .8 spark gap. Open the gap back up, around 1mm.

Thanks your info. (btw, its definitely not a Neo)

I have a Stagea RB25DET in my R32 GTS4. I was wondering if it would be any advantage to change the cylinder head for one from a R33 GTSt. Or maybe just the cams.

I'm no expert, but I know enough about the basics. The figure being displayed by the PFC is the number PROGRAMMED into it. It is not telling you what it is reading but rather what it is trying to achieve. So, the PFC gets a trigger at some point, say 60BTDC, and then calculates when the engine will be at the programmed point, say 23BTDC, when it should fire the spark. So if the PFC gets the trigger at the wrong time, the actual firing point will not match the programmed firing point. I run a Wolf unit on my RB25DET, and it has a function to adjust the trigger point so that what is programmed is what you see with a timing light. Check if the PFC has a similar function. (And be aware, some timing lights seem to show double the actual timing) Now more experienced people can take over diagnosing your problem.

Its an aerofoil for your wiper. Holds the blade onto the glass at speed. (passenger doesn't need to see where you are going, so LHS doesn't have one!)

Well, that will put the CAS waaaayyy out of position. To test for valve damage, do a compression test.

Looks a bit like a compressor for air horns. Could be wrong (wouldn't be the first time!)

Couple of thoughts: Adjustable sway bar links not even. Pre-load on front or rear sway bars. Rear shocks uneven, try swapping them L<>R.

Are you sure the CAS went back in the right orientation. If the half-moon locator key in the ex cam breaks off, its possible to align the CAS incorrectly. If the CAS is even one tooth out, the engine won't start.

By "dash switch", I'm guessing you're referring to the push-button, next to the round switch. It is for fog lights - in the absence of fog lights, it simply turns on park lights - has no effect on projector / main. Your left lights are working as designed, the problem with the right is, as GTSBoy suggested, a problem with the contacts in the rotary switch.

Its only a problem if you change the ratio. Its possible to change the centre (to LSD) and still keep the same gearset, thus retaining the ratio.

Have you tried jump starting it?

"New" or "another" ie second hand? (had a similar problem with my Pathfinder - got second hand starter, and it failed same way in four weeks!) Does it start easier once you get it started and the engine warms up? What is the battery voltage when the engine is running?

When I had a similar problem, turned out the starter motor was rooted. (I think I threw out a perfectly battery pack because it couldn't assist in starting the engine)

You need to get a NEW one. The igniters develop a habit of breaking down when they get hot, then work fine when they cool back down. Then again, 3500 "limit" is MAF problem, IIRC.

Was it a new igniter, or second hand?

AAC / IACV appear to be used interchangeably. According to my Workshop Manual, it is AAC, and the valve under the plenum is Air Regulator.

Air Reg / AAC problems have to be unrelated. AAC is powered by the ECU relay, and the ECU switches to earth thru pin 4.

Well, it appears that it is pretty much working correctly. Upon reflection, the symptoms you describe - poor cold start, poor hot idle - don't seem to mesh. I would start looking at dirty injectors. Try a big chunk of injector cleaner in your next tank of fuel. Have you confirmed that the fuel pressure is ok? Base ignition timing? Water temp sender?

test which terminal has continuity to earth = -ve Easiest to test if you remove it. Look through where the hoses fit. There should be a shutter, and it should be roughly half open at ambient temp. Then apply battery voltage across the terminals - the shutter should fully close (takes several minutes). Check resistance across the terminals - 70 - 80ohms at 20C

Air Regulator (cold start valve) is powered by the fuel pump relay.

FWIW, I'm running 32 GT-R brakes upfront on a 32 GTS4 under 17s

All solved. Reason everything suddenly stopped - I somehow unplugged the connector to the back of the hazard switch! Indicators work fine with a replacement flasher designed for LEDs - SY4018, $14.95 from Jaycar Electronics. (in the "auto" section, not the electronic parts section)

I think I found it - part# 25731 89960. Is this the flasher can? (Located just to the left of the steering column)

Well, I've solved one problem - when I arm / disarm the alarm, only the LH indicators flash. Found the (smashed) fuse, and replaced it. But now I have a bigger problem - NO indicators OR hazards! So I know the return circuits are ok, because the lights come on with the alarm arm /disarm. But because I have no hazards /indicators, I can't trace the relay sound.