blind_elk

I did the Murcott course a LONNNNGG time ago, b4 Waverley Park was built. And b4 much of the housing development; we actually used the streets of a housing development for our braking exercises. Then we had fun driving up and down Mt Dandy Tourist Rd, above the elbow to practise getting apexes right. I had always had trouble with the esses at Winton; I understood the basics of cornering, picking the apex, etc, but couldn't figure the second part of esses. The answer was so simple - take a later apex on the first corner (L hander) so you end up closer to the left of the track, better set up for the next corner (R hander). And it's where I learned threshold braking - being able to slam on the brakes and stop quickly without lockup (no ABS to help back then).

I actually just read the article. Might I now present a case that debunks the whole theory. A few years ago, 2 enforcers of this law were involved in incidents mere weeks apart. One was the then Victorian Police Commissioner Ken Lay, the other the then Victorian Police Minister Bob Cameron. Ken Lay got nabbed for speeding, yet he wasn't involved in a collision. Cameron was involved in a collision, yet wasn't speeding. By his own admission, Cameron crashed because he wasn't paying attention to the task at hand, namely controlling a motor vehicle. I will admit to a number of incidents where I exceeded the posted speed limit. Not in any one of those instances was I involved in a collision, not even close. When the Victorian government and TAC started promulgating this "speed kills" theory, there were a number of television ads. One showed a woman travelling in slowish traffic on the Tulla freeway. She pulls into the emergency lane and accelerates to 110, only to find some sucker changing a flat tyre. Speed had nothing to do with the fact that she killed that sucker, it was pure impatience (she would have killed him at 60, or even less). Another ad showed a youngish girl lamenting that she has killed her best friend. Sure, she was exceeding the speed limit a bit, but she was also attempting the change a cassette tape in the car. Speed had little to do with the death, more it was pure inattention. However, as much as I resent the attention paid to this subject, I feel that the "eyes glued to the speedo" argument is a bit of a furphy. You only need to glance every now and then, as you glance at lots of other things while driving in order to assess what is happening and what dangers may be about to present themselves. The eyes should be continually scanning the environment, not simply glued to the road ahead, or the speedo, or the hot chick walking on the footpath. If the eyes are always moving focus, you can gauge your speed in relation to the surroundings, with only the occasional glance back to the speedo to confirm. All part of being a competent driver.

Anyone ever considered all this "technology" they're putting in cars now. I mean, a car that parks itself!! WTF!! When I got my licence (in the trusty Model T), if you couldn't parallel park, you didn't get a licence. And AEB!! Again, WTF!! Read a report - can't testify to the truthfulness - of a motorist on the freeway; a bird flew in front of the car and the AEB activated! Luckily not being followed by a Kenworth! My 32 has ABS. I have activated it twice (once on the racetrack, once being a hoon out the back of Werribee). I learned to threshold brake (in a non-ABS car), and I am skilled / observant / aware enough that I don't get into situations where I need to panic stop. All this technology is dumbing down the populace to a point where drivers now consider themselves invincible, and drivers no longer need to DRIVE - they think the car will do it all for them. And what about all these "mistook the accelerator for the brake" incidents? How do you make such a simple mistake? And having made the mistake, how can you be so incompetent as to not be able to rectify the mistake? My daily is an auto Pathfinder - never, ever mistake the accelerator for the brake. We need to be more ruthless in awarding licences.

Murcott's - http://www.murcotts.edu.au - is also worth considering. I think if you really want to learn, then a course, with an instructor, will be more beneficial than simply taking part in organised competition.

Engine spec appears to be basically factory / stock. Factory spec spark plugs are heat range 5, not 7. And seeing as its basically stock, try opening out the gap a bit. 1mm maybe.

Stock FP readings should be: @ ignition switch ON: approx 3.0 kg/cm2 @ Engine idling: approx 2.5 kg/cm2 @ idling, disconnect vacuum hose at FPR: approx 3.0 kg/cm2

Was the car running OK before you checked the timing? It would seem it was driving better than after you made adjustments. So why not put it back? (the old adage of "if it ain't broke, why fix it" seems to apply) The crank pulley is marked in 5deg increments. The pulley rotates left to right, as you look into the engine bay. So the first (right-most) mark is 30BTDC. Some timing lights somehow show double the actual timing. The safest way is inserting a spark plug lead on #1 and measuring "old school". I don't know about the "jump".

I don't believe that is the case. I just tried it with my Pathfinder (it's on LPG and takes a while to start from cold). Also double-checked with the 32. While the engine is cranking, the tacho doesn't move at all, not until the engine is almost started. And, after all, its only doing about 300rpm while cranking. You suggested you got some gunk from low fuel in the tank, so have you replaced the filter and had the injectors cleaned? Also, the coil ignitors are prone to problems when they get old, but usually only when they are hot - usually cooling them off fixes the problem, at least temporarily.

Not being the owner of a 33, but just looking at the symbols, I would hazard a guess that it folds the mirrors in / out. Have you even tried the switch to see what it does?

There is a new business started in Hoppers - YourGarage. Its just like a workshop, except you do the work. They supply all the equipment - 3 hoists, all the spanners you could ever want, hydraulic press, engine crane, welder, lots more. You pay an hourly rate for use of the shop; the rate reduces for 3 or more hour blocks. You can do anything from a simple oil change to an engine swap. Its located at F8/29 Graham Ct Hoppers, ph: 8360 7033, yourgarage.net.au FYI - they have a show'n'shine happening this Saturday Sept 24 - free to come and look.

Uploaded my current map to dropbox. PMd you the link. It is for a fairly stock 25, so I suspect it is likely to run your engine rich as.

If the engine is stock, and the coils are good, then open the plug gap out to 1mm. Also, you seem to have the wrong heat range plugs - the correct heat range is a 6. BTW - I've lost count of the number of times I've had to say that the O2 sensors are ignored under anything but cruise conditions. So if you are on boost, the O2 sensors play absolutely no part in how the engine runs.

What plugs did you put in? Any mods? Have you done the AAC clean?

The need to shut down the gap on a spark plug (in a stock engine) is generally indicative of a poor spark (coil). Try a new set of either factory or Splitfire coilpacks. The spark plug heat range for a stock 33 is a 5, so try a set of BP5nnn plugs, 1 - 1.1 gap. Get the injectors cleaned.

Check the TPS. If it isn't indicating a "throttle closed" condition at no-throttle, then it will not be shutting down the injectors during back off and gear changes.

A simpler, and cheaper, possible solution is to fit a relay to the solenoid trigger wire, so you get maximum voltage to the starter solenoid.

How about just ONE post on the same topic?

Thanks Duncan. So, I located the relay(s), removed them, hit them with a bigger hammer, left them out of the car for a while, refitted them .... And haven't had a problem since

20SIX has some Bilsteins for sale http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/464060-r32-4wd-billstein-adjustable-suspension/ Someone else had a few sets of various makes (incl Bilstein), but I can't seem to locate the ad. You really won't go too wrong with Bilsteins. I believe the sets available from Quadrant (Oz distributors) are similar to the Nissan Race Team spec.

Interior rear view mirror?

If you use the wastegate controller for an RB20DET, then you will get around 10psi available right through the rev range. Then "open up" the dump pipe and you can get a couple more psi. (this is how my RB25DET in R32GTS4 is set up. I also run the wastegate actuator from the fpr line, so I get full 12psi at the manifold, rather than at the compressor wheel)

First up, the rear brakes do next to no retarding of speed. The majority of the stopping is done by the front brakes. To the main problem at hand - are these calipers brand new or second hand? If second hand, did you put a kit through them, and ensure that the pistons actually slide in the caliper body?

Vicroads VSI8, Sect 13.3.2 Option 2. It states "for that model or vehicle series". In that case, you might be able to argue that you can fit a rim 25mm wider than a stock GT-R rim on a GTSt.

How wide is a 33 GT-R rim? 8"? If that's the case, you probably only need a 235/45 tyre. (245/45 max) I'm surprised the "tyre place" couldn't give you a definitive answer. (similar sizing rules apply in Victoria, fyi)