blind_elk

This is my setup. (some people don't like it for its aesthetics, but it works fine, and I've yet to encounter any problems with it) As you can see, I've simply inserted the catch can - more correctly "oil / air seperator" - into the return line from the ex rocker cover down to the turbo intake. The system remains closed to the atmosphere - ie "legal" - and the PCV system still works as designed.

You still have to pull the engine apart. And once apart, you may as well fix the whole thing.

Will it start hot if you give it a bit of throttle?

Several years ago, when Drive in the Thursday Age had a letters section, I initiated a "discussion" when one of the journos suggested left foot braking in an auto was a good idea. I had to suggest it was not such a good idea, for the following reasons: 1. the driver's foot can relax onto the brake pedal, causing the brake lights to come on. Anyone following would be uncertain as to if / when the car in front was actually braking. (I've actually seen cars driving up hills with brake lights on) 2. If the foot relaxes even further, the brakes can be partially applied, causing crap fuel economy and accelerated pad wear. 3. In a panic stop, BOTH feet might head for the floor. It is possible then that the "go" pedal might override the "whoa" pedal (I've seen it happen). It might also explain some of these "mistook the accelerator for the brake" incidents. Those in favour can only cite improved reaction time as a benefit of this practice. They all claim "I don't light up the brake lights", but then they aren't following themselves to see if their brake lights are lit or not . So I maintain that the right foot is for braking (although I do sometimes left foot brake if I am manouvring in reverse). The left foot can simply relax on the footrest on the side of the transmission tunnel. It would seem this is a learned behaviour, rather than taught (I enquired of someone who is currently learning, and the instructor said "right foot for braking"). So if you drive an auto, be it your 'line or another car, do you left foot brake? If so, why? And why did you start doing it? Comments welcome.

I'm going for this one. Had a similar problem with my 32, and it only got worse, to the point that even a jump start wasn't always enough to start properly. Replaced the starter motor and don't have starting problems any more.

AFAIK, the ECU ignores the O2 sensor(s) at idle and on a cold engine, so I am perplexed that unplugguing either of the sensors made any difference. You may well have fouled the plugs by letting the engine simply idle to warm up. Engine runs rich when cold, best to drive it to warm up the engine faster. The fouled plugs, particularly if they are Iridiums, could well be a contributor to your idling problems. The surging may well be the ATTESSA complaining about worn rear tyres.

V4 or v4 Plus? Youy really need the Plus version to get the ability to run the indvidual coils. If you want, I can send you a map from mine - it should make the car driveable enough that you can get it to the tuner's.

Sorry, must have missed the news about the change of domain name. Made the change in my bookmarks, and it seems to work as before. Tks

I'm not being logged in automatically. When I do log in, I get: If I select "Forums" from the menu bar, I am in.

I have a R32 GTS4 fitted with a RB25DET VCT from a Stagea. I've been concerned that the VCT is not working, so this morning I ran a test light over the system. I have proven that the switching system is functioning correctly. However, if I connect direct 12V across the pins of the solenoid, nothing happens. So, to my question - is replacement of the solenoid as simple as "unscrew dead solenoid, screw in new solenoid"? Is there anything I need to look out for? No little thingos are going to disappear as they are propelled across the street by a spring that suddenly gets released, etc. TIA

Well picked, Ben.

Had a similar problem with my 32 - even jump start wouldn't get the engine to start. Turned out the starter motor was cactus with a short in the armature. New starter motor, no more starting problems.

The thing is, if there isn't anyone sitting there, the system doesn't chime, does it?

I had a similar problem in my GTS4 many years ago - from memory, I think it was a problem with the TPS plug.

None of that makes sense. Where are you? Can you get pics of cam wheels and crank pulley: a) at TDC b) at "lockup"

NGK recommend tighten to around 20 ft/lb - COLD.

2 different sensors. The gauge uses the single-pin sensor. Have you tried replacing it? I'm pretty certain it's electrical - no way the coolant can change temp that rapidly. Could be a fractured wire on / near the sensor.

If it won't start hot, try giving it some, even lots of, throttle. Poor hot start suggests a faulty ECU temp sender - try starting with temp sensor disconnected. Or poor setting up of cold start temperature compensation. Other possible causes: Fuel pressure - try clamping fuel return, or disconnect vacuum from FPR. Slow cranking speed - battery, or starter iffy.

Quite often, using the wire loop can give a reading twice the actual reading. Best results are obtained by going "old school" and using a plug lead inserted between #1 coil and the spark plug.

Without the half-moon key on the ex cam, there is only one position where the engine will start and run. Then you need to adjust the timing with a timing light.

Jared, I don't think you understand how a thermo fan is designed to work. You will gain a few kW if you set the thermo up the way it was intended, ie to only be working when the engine temperature gets too high. Alternator only works harder if the thermo fan is on. The majority of the time the thermo isn't on. Only comes on when the engine temp reaches a pre-set thermostatted temperature. Therefore I gain a couple of kW because the engine doesn't need to drive the clutch style (factory) fan.

I gave up on the thermo I ran in my GTS4 (admittedly without any shroud). Could not keep the engine cool - the slightest incline (at highway speed) caused the thermo to switch on. After I put the standard fan back on, have had absolutely no problem with temperature control. Figured the couple of kW I gain running the thermo wasn't worth the cost of an engine rebuild.

I had a strut bar in my GTS4 before I did a RB25DET swap. The bar still fitted, no adjustment required.

try referring to this thread (it's only 9 - 10 below this one, so you must have seen it: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/445546-having-real-trouble-putting-front-shocks-back-on/ (regardless of whether it is about a 33 or not, they are basically all the same)

There is another mark on the pulley, just above the pointer on the timing case. I'm guessing that that should be TDC. If that's the case, then the engine is slightly out of wack between the crank and the cams. In any case, the 2 white marks would probably be 15 and 20 BTDC - you really only need 15.