blind_elk

Why do you want to give the passenger to joy of sitting in a GT-R seat? Surely it makes more sense to replace the driver's seat with the GT-R seat. Anyway, if it does work, you will have trouble using the adjustment controls - they will be wedged between the seat and the tunnel.

Shock absorbers don't support the car. Springs support the car. Shock absorbers control the springs. Are the shocks new or second hand? Adjustable bump &/or rebound?

Both wheels are off the ground? (had one years ago trying to do one side at a time) Car supported on x-member, not on LCA? As suggested, long prybar or crowbar to lever the hub down a bit - no need to disconnect anything else.

Factory heat range for spark plugs is "5". Unless you are making serious power, you shouldn't be using "7"s. Have you cleaned the injectors (remove and sonic clean, not a just bottle of cleaner)?

"Doctor, it hurts when I do this". Then don't keep bouncing it off the f$%^&ng limiter!

If you are anywhere in Melbourne, you can call around to my place and take mine. It held a RB25 fine, and I really don't need it anymore.

Not so much the seat but the adapter frame that will lower the seat.

Just transfer the crown wheel onto your GTSt centre. Don't forget to swap the pinion gear.

Why do you need this? RX / TX is related to the interface to CONSULT.

The starter is independent of the ECU. If the engine won't spin over on the starter motor, that is a completely different problem to the engine not starting / running. (I wish people would learn the difference between "crank" and "start") When you turn the key to START, the solenoid on the starter should engage, and in turn the ECU gets a signal that the engine is being started. If the solenoid is not engaging, there is a problem related to the ignition switch. Have you tried giving 12V straight to the solenoid?

Don't RB26s run an air temp sensor to measure how hot the air going into the engine is? I would put that one ahead of the coolant sensor.

Really, best bang-for-buck would be Bilstein shocks and Kings low springs. I have them on my 32, and the ride is firm but not bone-jarring. You are welcome to come round to my place with all the bits and I will help install them.

Always the way, isn't it? Been chasing around all day trying to find a new starter - no-one seems to have one. Got the original back, quoted the Nissan P/N 23300 08U145 to some people. In the meantime, rang Just Jap in Sydney, ordered / paid for s/h unit. Mere seconds after hanging up, guy from Repco calls, says he can get me brand new unit by end of week. $329 (?), which is much better than Nissan's $1G! Guess I'll have a spare.

I've got the battery off being load tested. Meantime, I removed the starter motor - what a prick of a job that is! Sparky just called to advise that there is a (non-reparable) short in the armature. So time for a new starter - should make the car good for another 200k or so.

If you install high lift, large overlap cams, then the idle is going to be lumpy. Not a lot you can do about it.

jiffo, pretty sure you can only supply power to one side of the solenoid; the other side earths through the body, so maybe my bad in describing it as such. The engine didn't turn over because I didn't activate the solenoid. I effectively bypassed the solenoid by touching the main power cable to the other 8mm connection (the "switched" side) on the starter motor, causing the armature to turn (as it would under a "normal" start operation).

Just tried another test: Jumping off the Pathfinder, my battery has 13.5V at the posts. Then on START, it drops to 9V, maybe even 7V. Anyway, my local Autobarn has agreed to get the battery tested by the manufacturer. FWIW, the "condition" indicator seems to be a load of marketing BS, doesn't necessarily mean anything.

Thanks for the info. The car has been "off" now for about 4-5 hours, 12.4V across the terminals. The battery is a sealed unit, but it has a "condition" window which indicates that the battery is ok. I'm confident the battery has 13.5V from the Pathfinder, but just can't keep 13.5V while the engine cranks over. jiffo, I had the main cable to the starter off; as I was replacing it, I moved it a bit too far inwards and contacted the other side of the solenoid, causing the main shaft to get power. The solenoid is fine - it will always throw at "start" - it simply clicks in / out / in / out when the battery really drops in available volts. Also, the solenoid is on a relay so it gets full battery +12V at START. The annoying thing is that it started fine on its own yesterday, but not today. It wouldn't start Wednesday night before last, but started fine last Sunday morning. It also doesn't seem to matter if the battery has been on trickle charge or not. I guess its possible the battery is a bit cactus - despite its condition window saying its ok - because before I replaced the battery terminals I used to have even worse problems. I nearly always had to jump start the car because the +ve terminal had split its lower ring. But I would expect it to start every time with a jump start - but it won't.

My R32 GTS4 - RB25DET + Wolf 3D 4+ - has developed a problem in that it is unpredictable whether it will cold start, even with a jump start. Battery (Super Charge 40B20, 380 CCA - I think it was from Autobarn) is only about 12 months old. Trying it this morning, had my Pathfinder on jumper leads. It will turn over, but somehow loses voltage to the starter motor, and just stops turning. Watching the Wolf handset, the duty cycle jumps all over the place, even going to 100% duty cycle at less than 100 rpm. Battery voltage starts at 13 - 14V, then drops as low as 7V when trying to crank. When it does start, it will crank then almost stop, like its hit a compression lock, then start cranking again. I've tried tightening the power cable to the starter. I have installed an extra new heavy duty earth strap from the thermostat housing to the battery. I have replaced both factory battery terminals with solid brass ones. Sometimes (particularly on low battery) I just get the starter solenoid clicking in / out, but no starter. Multimeter says there is 0 resistance between block and battery -ve. Also, there is full voltage at the starter motor, and 0 resistance through that cable. I accidentally supplied power direct to the starter side of the starter solenoid, and the starter spun freely. I'm really stumped. Any help / advice graciously received. I'm wondering if the starter motor needs an overhaul(?) I have several videos on my phone of the Wolf handset while starting - just need to figure out how to upload them so you can see what its doing.

It could be a faulty sender. The warning lamp switch is permanently earthing the pressure switch to show the warning light. Another remote possibility is an incorrect oil filter.

As Sinista said, that light is the "Oh $hiT!" light, as in "Oh $hiT!, no oil pressure!" Have you checked the oil level in the sump?

Maybe you have crap tyres that just don't grip. Maybe the suspension is so stiff that weight transfer doesn't happen.

The CAS can only go in one way - if the half-moon key is still in the end of the ex cam. Then centre the CAS mounting bolts. The engine should start, and once its up to operating temp you can reset the base timing with a timing light.

Or grab the gear drive from the old gearbox. I think you need to be careful, because removing the gear drive will dump the gearbox oil (?).

Tyre profile is not there for altering the ride height of the car. If you have a problem with bits of the car hitting bits of the environment, then you need to adjust the suspension to raise the ground clearance of the car.